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Discussion Starter #1
HI,

First I find this forum a wealth of information so thank you to all that post answers.

I am a long time lurker and I purchased a new JKU rubicon in 2015, I have been its sole owner. I told my self I would address a mild lift with 33" or 35" tires AFTER I wore out the factory tires. well I crested 33,000 miles on the factory rubber and they have cupped to the point where its time to address it.

Researching lift kits is exhausting.

But to provide context these are the parameters in play. Its my daily driver, I am primarily setting it up for over-landing.

What I hope to gain from this post is clarity on a few things. I have reviewed a huge number of posts here about Lift kit A versus Lift kit B and 2.5 versus 3.5.

Prior to finding this forum I had settled on an AEV 2.5 inch lift, and I was planning on reusing my factory rims. However after reading many threads here it seems that to make the AEV 2.5 inch lift exceptional you need to add components to it and that gets you into the 1300-1400 dollar range for the lift alone. This places me very close to the Metal Cloak 2.5 True Dual Rate lift. I am a fan of having an upgrade path for this Rubicon If and when it ceases to be my daily driver. So I have settled on the following upgrades

1: Metal Cloak 2.5 True Dual Rate Lift (quality, completeness of kit, upgrade path drove choice)
2: Yokohama Geolandar M/T G003 tires
3: Exhaust spacer rather than drive shaft replacement.

What I am not clear on are tire size and rim versus spacer options.

What exactly do I need to do with the factory rims to use them? What are the down sides to using spacers with the factory rims as I have been told by metal Cloak that I will need to replace my rims or use "less than ideal" spacers? my hope with this post is to get some feedback on variables like 33"+ factory rim + spacer= OK 35" +factory rim + spacer = NOT OK.

Is a 35" to much tire for a 2.5 inch lift?

My apologizes as I know these questions have been asked some place here before.

Thanks

Monkey
 

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Welcome to The Forum .. Not sure on Metalcloak... We just started to run 35s on an AEV 2.5" Dual Sport with Pro Comp 17x9 with 4.5" Backspace - the Pic is with 33s and the AEV Lift. measured up about 4in from a stock JKU w/33s. Jeep with AEV 2.5 Lift .jpg AEV says you can run 35s .. do have to clearance the rock rails and inner fender for the rears.. Metalcloak has a video on Utube on howto.
 

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Metalcloak Dual Rate is a fantastic starting point. The AEV is also very good and the small number of upgrades we do are easy enough to not be stressed over. If you still want to do the AEV, I'll gladly link you the few pieces we like to recommend.

You might consider the Geolandar X-AT for your application. Usually a hybrid tire is better overall for overlanding. As for wheels, the spacer works fine and gives appropriate back spacing, etc. BUT, I don't recommend running a tire that exceeds the manufacturers specs for wheel width... A typical 35x12.5R17 minimum wheel width is 8.5" and the stock wheel is 7.5" wide. If it were me, and my JKU is an overlander, I would either plan for wheels or check the options I list below.

There are 3 really good 35" tires that fit the stock wheels. The Toyo ATIII in 35x11.5R17 and the Nitto Trail Grappler (MT) also in 35x11.5R17 and the Kenda KR601 R/T in 35x10.5R17. You can find threads on all of them here on WF.
 

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Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.

Congrats on owning a Wrangler!
 

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same boat, 16 Rubi Hard Rock. All things pointing to AEV 2.5 with Quadratec Hard Rock wheels with 5.2 back spacing and 35 Falken AT3Ws. Wheels vs wheel spacers is subjective but I think I'll spend the extra few hundred for wheels 4.5-5.2 bs preferred. The real extra cost is the 5th wheel with carrier...adds another 1k (tire/wheel/carrier). I too, considered 33-34 but I think i'll have regrets and I don't want to go another 40k until the tires wear out.I have 410 gears but anything less avoid 35s imo. caveat, still waiting to pull the trigger so my decisions are flexible
 

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The lift wizard has spoken. Whatever Pressurized has to say is worth gold. Good luck and keep us posted on how things go.
 

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Metalcloak Dual Rate is a fantastic starting point. The AEV is also very good and the small number of upgrades we do are easy enough to not be stressed over. If you still want to do the AEV, I'll gladly link you the few pieces we like to recommend.

You might consider the Geolandar X-AT for your application. Usually a hybrid tire is better overall for overlanding. As for wheels, the spacer works fine and gives appropriate back spacing, etc. BUT, I don't recommend running a tire that exceeds the manufacturers specs for wheel width... A typical 35x12.5R17 minimum wheel width is 8.5" and the stock wheel is 7.5" wide. If it were me, and my JKU is an overlander, I would either plan for wheels or check the options I list below.

There are 3 really good 35" tires that fit the stock wheels. The Toyo ATIII in 35x11.5R17 and the Nitto Trail Grappler (MT) also in 35x11.5R17 and the Kenda KR601 R/T in 35x10.5R17. You can find threads on all of them here on WF.
I would love to hear your input on the AEV 2.5 suggested add ons as well as how the Duratracs, AT3Ws, and K02s compare to each other for a dd. Thank you op great post
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Metalcloak Dual Rate is a fantastic starting point. The AEV is also very good and the small number of upgrades we do are easy enough to not be stressed over. If you still want to do the AEV, I'll gladly link you the few pieces we like to recommend.

You might consider the Geolandar X-AT for your application. Usually a hybrid tire is better overall for overlanding. As for wheels, the spacer works fine and gives appropriate back spacing, etc. BUT, I don't recommend running a tire that exceeds the manufacturers specs for wheel width... A typical 35x12.5R17 minimum wheel width is 8.5" and the stock wheel is 7.5" wide. If it were me, and my JKU is an overlander, I would either plan for wheels or check the options I list below.

There are 3 really good 35" tires that fit the stock wheels. The Toyo ATIII in 35x11.5R17 and the Nitto Trail Grappler (MT) also in 35x11.5R17 and the Kenda KR601 R/T in 35x10.5R17. You can find threads on all of them here on WF.
Cleared up many things for me, thank you. I have come across several JKs that have tall but narrow tires on them and they LOOK funny. I am not sure if these factory rim compatible tires you speak of have this effect. But for me one of the deciding factors in the Geolandar G003 is tire life, my research indicates that these tires should be good for 50,000 miles. So if I factor in a factory rim compatible tire thats good for only 25K-30K then the math dictates its better to spend the money on wider rims rather than spacers.
 

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I would love to hear your input on the AEV 2.5 suggested add ons as well as how the Duratracs, AT3Ws, and K02s compare to each other for a dd. Thank you op great post
For the AEV 2.5, there are 2 things we highly recommend, a set of 2.5" rear sway bar links and move the stock rear links to the front. This eliminates the brackets that AEV provides. And some form of caster correction. A set of geometry correction brackets is very popular, but I am a fan of a set of front lower control arms.

Then there are a couple of optional add ons... I like to put a set of 3/4 coil spacers up front to level out the Jeep. The AEV kit leaves the factory rake and many people like to eliminate that. Also, a front adjustable track bar to center the front axle after lifting. It's not a problem at all, but some might find it noticeable. I can make that recommendation on ANY lift that doesn't include a front track bar.



Cleared up many things for me, thank you. I have come across several JKs that have tall but narrow tires on them and they LOOK funny. I am not sure if these factory rim compatible tires you speak of have this effect. But for me one of the deciding factors in the Geolandar G003 is tire life, my research indicates that these tires should be good for 50,000 miles. So if I factor in a factory rim compatible tire thats good for only 25K-30K then the math dictates its better to spend the money on wider rims rather than spacers.
The Kenda 10.5's do look a bit narrow... The 11.5's are not that different than the 12.5's. As for the G003, I don't really think anyone is getting 50k out of a mud terrain. The rubber compounds are just too soft. However, I don't have any direct experience with them... If you do them, I hope you get the life you expect! There are some very nice wheels at good prices that are hub centric (meant for Jeeps) at Quadratec and Extreme Terrain.
 
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For the AEV 2.5, there are 2 things we highly recommend, a set of 2.5" rear sway bar links and move the stock rear links to the front. This eliminates the brackets that AEV provides. And some form of caster correction. A set of geometry correction brackets is very popular, but I am a fan of a set of front lower control arms.

Then there are a couple of optional add ons... I like to put a set of 3/4 coil spacers up front to level out the Jeep. The AEV kit leaves the factory rake and many people like to eliminate that. Also, a front adjustable track bar to center the front axle after lifting. It's not a problem at all, but some might find it noticeable. I can make that recommendation on ANY lift that doesn't include a front track bar.





The Kenda 10.5's do look a bit narrow... The 11.5's are not that different than the 12.5's. As for the G003, I don't really think anyone is getting 50k out of a mud terrain. The rubber compounds are just too soft. However, I don't have any direct experience with them... If you do them, I hope you get the life you expect! There are some very nice wheels at good prices that are hub centric (meant for Jeeps) at Quadratec and Extreme Terrain.
I appreciate your input. In your opinion, our 410 gears 0K with a 35 inch tire for a daily driver, actually pleasure driver as I am retired. Auto trans, NJ so flat land
 

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Discussion Starter #11
For the AEV 2.5, there are 2 things we highly recommend, a set of 2.5" rear sway bar links and move the stock rear links to the front. This eliminates the brackets that AEV provides. And some form of caster correction. A set of geometry correction brackets is very popular, but I am a fan of a set of front lower control arms.

Then there are a couple of optional add ons... I like to put a set of 3/4 coil spacers up front to level out the Jeep. The AEV kit leaves the factory rake and many people like to eliminate that. Also, a front adjustable track bar to center the front axle after lifting. It's not a problem at all, but some might find it noticeable. I can make that recommendation on ANY lift that doesn't include a front track bar.





The Kenda 10.5's do look a bit narrow... The 11.5's are not that different than the 12.5's. As for the G003, I don't really think anyone is getting 50k out of a mud terrain. The rubber compounds are just too soft. However, I don't have any direct experience with them... If you do them, I hope you get the life you expect! There are some very nice wheels at good prices that are hub centric (meant for Jeeps) at Quadratec and Extreme Terrain.
50,000 seemed suspicious to me also. but I have encountered 2 people with more than 25K on them and they are about half tread. Honestly I am not worried about 1K in funds spread out over 36 months. I am leaning to doing things correctly the first time... so I am looking at proper rims now.
 

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I run a 285/75R17 (34X11.6) on 3.73 gears. I have a 2" lift and its not quite enough at full flex with the stock fenders still on. I've been thinking about going to the AEV 2.5 or 3.5 to carry the extra weight of my overlanding gear. I do like my tire size for my use case, but I'm not doing rock crawling with it as I have a TJ for that.
 

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I appreciate your input. In your opinion, our 410 gears 0K with a 35 inch tire for a daily driver, actually pleasure driver as I am retired. Auto trans, NJ so flat land
Yeah, the 4.10's and 35's are pretty close to stock tire Jeep's with 3.21's. Lots out there just like that.
 
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Again, I appreciate your advice. My jeep is still in mid August recovered late September and still at the dealer getting looked at and waiting for parts. I’m champing at the bit to get it back and give it some love.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Gearing Question: I pulled the build sheet for my Rubicon Hard Rock. and I see 2 things

4:1 Rock-Trac HD Part Time 4WD Sys
and then farther down on the build sheet I see this

5-Speed Auto W5A580 Transmission
3.73 Rear Axle Ratio

This would imply I am not running 4.1 gear ratio in the rear , Correct ?
 

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Gearing Question: I pulled the build sheet for my Rubicon Hard Rock. and I see 2 things

4:1 Rock-Trac HD Part Time 4WD Sys
and then farther down on the build sheet I see this

5-Speed Auto W5A580 Transmission
3.73 Rear Axle Ratio

This would imply I am not running 4.1 gear ratio in the rear , Correct ?
410 is optional 3.73 standard, can you discern whether that was optioned for in other words selected at an additional cost?
 

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I think your first choice of going MetalCloak was the correct call. Easy and simple upgrade path without needing to be a guru lift specialist. No offense intend @Pressurized. I am not knocking AEV and depending on planned use can be a better lift. The nod would have to go to AEV when it comes to road manners and on lighter builds. But MetalCloak is not bad on the road provided you pair it with the correct shocks and the ride is really good when the build is on the heavier side.

In the end though you really can't go wrong with either.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I think your first choice of going MetalCloak was the correct call. Easy and simple upgrade path without needing to be a guru lift specialist. No offense intend @Pressurized. I am not knocking AEV and depending on planned use can be a better lift. The nod would have to go to AEV when it comes to road manners and on lighter builds. But MetalCloak is not bad on the road provided you pair it with the correct shocks and the ride is really good when the build is on the heavier side.

In the end though you really can't go wrong with either.
The build will be heavy, I all ready have bull bar, Warn Zeon 12,000 synthetic, ARB refrigerator is all ready in the back. It will only get heavier from here on out. I am upgrading the fuel system to handle more gas but honestly thats not really for overlanding. Its because I live in South Florida and when hurricanes come close, getting fuel for cars becomes a 4 hour process. I want enough fuel to get to Orlando without refueling if I leave, and I live on the beach so I will not stay for any thing above a category 3 storm.

I keep leaning to the MetalCloak due to the upgrade path it has. and remote reservoir shocks are not out of the question in the future.
 

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The build will be heavy, I all ready have bull bar, Warn Zeon 12,000 synthetic, ARB refrigerator is all ready in the back. It will only get heavier from here on out. I am upgrading the fuel system to handle more gas but honestly thats not really for overlanding. Its because I live in South Florida and when hurricanes come close, getting fuel for cars becomes a 4 hour process. I want enough fuel to get to Orlando without refueling if I leave, and I live on the beach so I will not stay for any thing above a category 3 storm.

I keep leaning to the MetalCloak due to the upgrade path it has. and remote reservoir shocks are not out of the question in the future.
Okay then, my Jeep is a 2 door rag top though I do have glass windows. In my sig you can see everything I have done to it, total weight is 5080 empty, that is without me in it or the rear seat or the trailer hooked up. There is still another 100 lbs to be added once I do the rear fenders. That is close to a 1000 lbs of weight added since I bought it. And I am still at 2.5 inches of lift. I am probably jumping to 3.5 springs only because like you the Jeep will not be getting lighter. I am still hoping to do an LS swap as well as going to a Automatic tranny and an Atlas transfer case plus upgraded steering, etc. Figure another 200 - 300 lbs on the springs.

I am not sure there is another kit out there handles the weight as well as MC.
 
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HI,

First I find this forum a wealth of information so thank you to all that post answers.

I am a long time lurker and I purchased a new JKU rubicon in 2015, I have been its sole owner. I told my self I would address a mild lift with 33" or 35" tires AFTER I wore out the factory tires. well I crested 33,000 miles on the factory rubber and they have cupped to the point where its time to address it.

Researching lift kits is exhausting.

But to provide context these are the parameters in play. Its my daily driver, I am primarily setting it up for over-landing.

What I hope to gain from this post is clarity on a few things. I have reviewed a huge number of posts here about Lift kit A versus Lift kit B and 2.5 versus 3.5.

Prior to finding this forum I had settled on an AEV 2.5 inch lift, and I was planning on reusing my factory rims. However after reading many threads here it seems that to make the AEV 2.5 inch lift exceptional you need to add components to it and that gets you into the 1300-1400 dollar range for the lift alone. This places me very close to the Metal Cloak 2.5 True Dual Rate lift. I am a fan of having an upgrade path for this Rubicon If and when it ceases to be my daily driver. So I have settled on the following upgrades

1: Metal Cloak 2.5 True Dual Rate Lift (quality, completeness of kit, upgrade path drove choice)
2: Yokohama Geolandar M/T G003 tires
3: Exhaust spacer rather than drive shaft replacement.

What I am not clear on are tire size and rim versus spacer options.

What exactly do I need to do with the factory rims to use them? What are the down sides to using spacers with the factory rims as I have been told by metal Cloak that I will need to replace my rims or use "less than ideal" spacers? my hope with this post is to get some feedback on variables like 33"+ factory rim + spacer= OK 35" +factory rim + spacer = NOT OK.

Is a 35" to much tire for a 2.5 inch lift?

My apologizes as I know these questions have been asked some place here before.

Thanks

Monkey
 
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