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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First time posting but long time following this forum. To start off I have a 2016 jk 4dr 35 in tires 3.5 inch lift new steel bumpers ,winch,5.13 gears, lights ,the works you know. Couple weeks ago I went from phx az to Laughlin nv and it didn't take long for my jeep to start overheating. Never had a problem before, temp gauge and evic always stayed at 210. Temps here are usually 110 but jk was running into 258 at 70 mph. All the hills made me drive 35 up them to keep the temp down. So right away I removed winch cover and grille and continued driving. Same result. Not big into mudding and it only has 10k miles on it. Anyways sry for the long rant but the story leads to the dealer. Waited two weeks at the dealer and all they came up with it's all fine. Said it's common for lifted jeeps with big tires to over heat. They said to get a bigger radiator installed to help and that's it. So guys what's up....Is anyone else having this issue.
 

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Yep. Everyone. Have your ECM unlocked. Buy HPtuners and lower your start temps to 205/212/212 for low, medium and high, respectively. Thank @rsmwrangler. Drive happily ever after.

Mark

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks allot man. I do have the Diablo pcm currently installed so I will bring those fan settings down. Has this personally helped you out.
 

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2008 Jeep Wrangler JK
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Have you considered installing a hood vent?
 

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BTDT. Will have no effect.

Mark

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I actually have a avenger style hood with vents on the sides and middle.Thought that would help but more or less just looks good. 1.jpg
 

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What bumper/winch combination are you running. I had a high mounted winch on mine and temps were consistently 10-15 degrees higher than stock. I replaced my bumper and went with a 10a/Hardrock bumper, and low mounted the winch to remove the airflow restriction and temps dropped back down to normal. ANY blockage of airflow no matter how minor it seems, will negatively impact temps.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have the eautogrill form amazon bumper combo and smitty 10k lb winch.It is infront of the grill,but I did take off the grill and winch cover which freed up alot of room for air flow.Temps still rose up to the red.Did your issues stop with high temps for good once you got a lower mounted winch?
 

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My normal temp is 206. When I had the winch mounted high, on a Rock Hard winch mount and factory bumper, temps were consistently 216-220. When I low mounted it, they went right back down. Now, on the highway yesterday, 75 mph, 97-99 degrees temps got up to 228 once but stayed below 216 most of the trip. I don't believe the fan even kicks on until it gets to 224.
 

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Also I just reread that you have a tuner. If you are too lean, temps will soar. You might try a factory tune and see what that does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
All good info,thanks for the replies. Im going to try to bring down fan temp settings like Mark said first than if that doesnt make a diff il try going back to stock tune.I dont think diablo 87 tune changes much but its worth a shot..Dealer says buy a perf radiator but you know at that point they get there way out of any related warranties.
You said 220 deg with standard bumper and winch,thats not bad.Would you run hotter if you were over driving faster say 80mph or would it stay consistant.
 

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I'm not going to spend nearly $1k on a programmer and unlocked ECU. I also believe the temps many of us see are "normal" for the design of the system. I don't like letting off and slowing down on long hills or turning off the AC when the temps start the fast climb to 240+. I've been watching all of the overheating, warm running, and radiator leak threads, it's obvious that it's designed that way but it's also obviously very hard on the plastic radiator and related cooling components and engine too depending on how often it occurs. The stock fan gets 12v all the time via the red and black wires, the small wire is the signal wire from the tipm that tells the built in fan controller what speed to run. If the signal wire is disconnected a cel occurs, if the signal wire is tied into 12v+ no cel occurs. As soon as I get the chance I'm going to monitor the signal voltage from the tipm for low, med and high speeds. At this point I'm hoping it's a 12v signal for high, if it is a simple dash switch can be used to force the fan on high at anytime by the user. Some fact, some theory for now, if anyone has tried or can add to the info I have so far that would be great. Otherwise I will post my findings when I get a chance.
 

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All good info,thanks for the replies. Im going to try to bring down fan temp settings like Mark said first than if that doesnt make a diff il try going back to stock tune.I dont think diablo 87 tune changes much but its worth a shot..Dealer says buy a perf radiator but you know at that point they get there way out of any related warranties.
You said 220 deg with standard bumper and winch,thats not bad.Would you run hotter if you were over driving faster say 80mph or would it stay consistant.
It stays pretty consistent, although the only way my Jeep would see 80 MPH is if it fell off a cliff!:lmao:
 

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Take inner fender liners out and replace them with off road evolution mini liners.


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May I ask a side question to this subject:

Does the Wrangler have some means of electronic overheating protection, like e.g. reducing engine power in an overheating event?

Without any warning, I would hate to miss seeing a high coolant temperature gauge display.
 

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As far as I am aware the only way to adjust fan speed is with HPtuners. None of the hand held tuners can do it.

If the AC is on the fan will run the low setting regardless of actually temp.

Make sure the system is full. Every morning before you set out remove the radiator cap and add water. I did this over a 2 week time period and was always able to water, about a quart over that period of time. Give a few squeezes to the upper radiator hose to work out any possible air bubbles. Add this straight to the radiator not the overflow, but make sure that is correct also.

Check for a leaks. They tend to fail on the drivers side up around the upper hose toward the engine. You probably won't see anything on the floor but you might see discoloration at the bottom of the radiator on that side.
 

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.....Would you run hotter if you were over driving faster say 80mph or would it stay consistant.
The harder you work the engine the hotter it will get. The temp sensor is located around the 3 cylinder on the drivers side. This is about the hottest place you can take a measurement. If I run 80 up hill temps will rise to in the 220's but on the down hill side it will be 205 or lower.
 

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If the dealership would void warranty with a aftermarket better quality radiator, they could easily do the same since you have a different bumper (altering airflow) & heavier wheel/tire combo that's larger plus a ECU programmer.

Hood vents usually seem to be more for looks then functionality... yea one of the reasons I purchased my RHR

Redline water wetter I used on my old saab at track days, aftermarket radiators weren't available & the water wetter helped. However not as much as removing a headlight :)

If what others have suggested doesn't help I would just suck it up and get a new radiator which is usually the best way to drop temps. Most of us have never had to deal with 110+ degree days
 
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