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I am looking to purchase a used TJ from a dealer. The Jeep had one owner who lived in a Florida beach town. The frame was clearly coated with POR 15 or something similar. Do you see any obvious issues with the frame other than the coating? I realize I will need to poke at it to be sure…just curious whether the photos reveal anything?

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2006 TJ Rubicon, 4.0, automatic
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It looks good, but with the coating looks can be deceiving. What I can see of the body looks good too. Definitely poke and prod to make sure it isn’t weak. Something that might give you a little bit of an idea is try to look inside the frame. They might not have coated the inside so you might be able to see anything to worry about in there. Also, check the underside of the body, and under the fenders. Those areas might also give you hints that could be a problem.
 

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06 TJ SE 2.4L 6spd, 79 CJ5 258ci 4spd, 83 CJ7 258ci auto
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Due to Jeep frames having a reputation of rusting out in key areas to the entire frame depending on location, people are regularly coating their frames, I'm finding it even with Jeeps having less than 50k on the clock in dry areas. Whenever I see the "orange peel" smooth application, I don't fret too much.
 

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'13 JKU Rubi 10A and '01 TJ Sport
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Take an inspection camera/borescope and look inside the frame rails for rot. Tap on the frame with a ballpeen hammer. If it sounds/feels "soft," there's hidden rot. From what I can see from the pictures, the other components (skid, axle, body, control arms) look rust free and in good shape, which is a good sign.
 

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Having used POR-15 (WAY too much) I do not think this is POR-15. POR-15 cures shiny, almost gloss powder-coat like. It also isn't UV proof unless you topcoat it so it fades over time. I find it poor at hiding imperfections such as weld/grind jobs and rust pitting. Whatever this is looks like it came from a can (overspray on tranny skid).

I do not see much corrosion in the body area (that is visable). Look around the floor plugs (from the top - usually covered by floor mats) and up under fender wells. I had a jeep for years in Hawaii (beach town for sure) and it never rusted anywhere. Roll bar feet/mounting area is another that is overlooked a lot.

As far as TJ frames, I think someone mentioned it up top, they tend to rust on the inside first.
 

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06 TJ SE 2.4L 6spd, 79 CJ5 258ci 4spd, 83 CJ7 258ci auto
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I'm actually surprised it's a "Florida BEACH TOWN" vehicle as beach area vehicles tend to rust a lot from ocean salted air.
 

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Find something solid to poke at the frame with. Likely they won't want you using a screwdriver on that nice coating, but hard plastic shaped like a screwdriver will work, or small dead blow type hammer. Something with force that wont mar it.
Hit the frame, abd the front and rear upper amd lower control arm areas, m9st common rust points.
If that is a c9ver up, it id a really well done one. More likely they cared for the frame.

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that looks like a Line-X spray on bedliner or ziebart product
 

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It's a great thing as long as it's not covering something up, which I don't see in your pics
 

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And it's a Rubicon. The body bolts, the holes in the bottom of the torque box tend to support the no rust. If it's an '03 or '04 grab it. If it's an '05 or '06 still ok but not as good as an '03 or '04.
 
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I agree. If there were significant enough rust, you would also see it on the body bolts and under the floor pan. You could also see the imperfections through the coating in spots. That is too smooth, done for looks only.
 

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I'm actually surprised it's a "Florida BEACH TOWN" vehicle as beach area vehicles tend to rust a lot from ocean salted air.
I have lived at the beach a few times and the best thing ever invented was a coin operated automatic car wash. Many days were spent with the spray wand. Island cars were cleaner than tourist cars. Do they still call tourists shoebees in south Jersey? A FL jeep club built my YJ and a fine job they did too. She has an over the axel lift with stainless steel extended brake lines. Something was done to rear pumpkin, dunno, but the little 4 banger with big tires will get up and go. Putting the pedal to the metal she won't shift into 3rd until 56 mph. I normally putt around because I don't like tickets nice to have some go when getting on the slab.

Oh I'm rambling. It looks to me like the dealer rattle canned the frame and they could have power washed it before painting. That is dealer fluff telling you that is some special coating has been done. Auto parts stores sells cans of spray rubberized coating just as good. I would get under it with a flashlight to see if both sides of the frame are coated.if you are worried. Most probably this jeep belonged to a retiree and their decendant traded it in.
 

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I have lived at the beach a few times and the best thing ever invented was a coin operated automatic car wash. Many days were spent with the spray wand. Island cars were cleaner than tourist cars. Do they still call tourists shoebees in south Jersey? A FL jeep club built my YJ and a fine job they did too. She has an over the axel lift with stainless steel extended brake lines. Something was done to rear pumpkin, dunno, but the little 4 banger with big tires will get up and go. Putting the pedal to the metal she won't shift into 3rd until 56 mph. I normally putt around because I don't like tickets nice to have some go when getting on the slab.

Oh I'm rambling. It looks to me like the dealer rattle canned the frame and they could have power washed it before painting. That is dealer fluff telling you that is some special coating has been done. Auto parts stores sells cans of spray rubberized coating just as good. I would get under it with a flashlight to see if both sides of the frame are coated that gloss black doesn't sit well with me. Most probably this jeep belonged to a retiree and their decendant traded it in.

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Most Jersey shore tourists are more commonly referred to as benny"s but shoebie (do not hear much anymore) works too.
 
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