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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking at several options but I would like some of your input since it can give me an insight to what works well here in Colorado..

I'm running 37's..

I've looked at the Mopar D44HD for $865
http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/__/Crate-Axles/10709589/P5160036.html
Includes housing, ball joints, and axle seals. I'd have to purchase everything else for it and piece it together.
In terms of reinforcing it, suggestions? Truss? Cs?
Major drawback with this one is I have no idea how to put an axle together so I'd have to pay up the :mooning: for labor. Could end up costing as much as the next option if not just a few hundred less.

I'm also looking at the Currie RockJock44
http://www.northridge4x4.com/drivet...ock-44-high-pinion-package-assembled-complete
If I did this, I would purchase the most expensive things now and finish it up as budget allows in the next few months.
That's about $3500 for the housing, gears and a locker.
I'd need axle shafts and ball joints.
Huge benefit here is that the hardest parts will come assembled and all I'd have to do is install axle shafts and ball joints which I can do.
Labor=$0

Any suggestions or ideas?
 

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Me too!

I am in the same boat with this one. Following the thread to gain some insight.

Why are you wanting to replace your D30?

In my case I completely destroyed all the teeth off of my D30 ring gear and twisted my front driveshaft like a twizzler candy. Too much power for the stock D30 I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am in the same boat with this one. Following the thread to gain some insight.

Why are you wanting to replace your D30?

In my case I completely destroyed all the teeth off of my D30 ring gear and twisted my front driveshaft like a twizzler candy. Too much power for the stock D30 I guess.
Because of that exact reason, yikes! the D30's ring and pinion are too small and it's not reliable enough for what I want this rig to do.

I want it to be able to handle the 37's I just put on today without having to worry about it.

 

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I ran 37's for a few years without issues, believe it or not, when I swapped to 35's is when I began to have all these issues. But then again... I do have a 3.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel in my JKU. LOL
That's a clean looking jeep!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T--kkIE38-s

Not sure how to add pics in here yet but this is a video from when I had my 37's on it.
 

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Looks like a good time to learn to put an axle together! I think the axle shafts are the same aren't they? I feel like I read that some where. Other than that I think the carrier and r/p are different. But if you are going through the trouble to replace the 30, go for the gold and beef the piss out of it.
 

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Looks like a good time to learn to put an axle together! I think the axle shafts are the same aren't they? I feel like I read that some where. Other than that I think the carrier and r/p are different. But if you are going through the trouble to replace the 30, go for the gold and beef the piss out of it.
Axle shafts are the same as what? If you are comparing to the 44, then no. Rubi 44s have 32 spline shafts. Non rubi 44 is 30, and d30 is 27 spline. If you are upgrading to a 44 housing you can build a super 44 with an ARB carrier and 35 spline shafts. Personal preference though, some people believe in intentional leaving the shafts as a weak point since it is cheaper and easier to repair (you can buy a lot of stock shafts as spares for the price of RCVs), and people like myself believe in reinforcing them and trying to wheel between the limits of broken stock shaft and blown R and P. For reference I am also on 37s with a sleeved, trussed, RCV, geared and locked D30. According to the Internet I should have spontaneously combusted years ago.
 

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In my case I completely destroyed all the teeth off of my D30 ring gear and twisted my front driveshaft like a twizzler candy. Too much power for the stock D30 I guess.
Too much power isn't the problem...that large mass of a tire/wheel combination is....especially when used with a heavy right foot.

Although people have been successful running 37's on a D30, the consensus is 35's max with chromo shafts to be safe. That's why 37's are kind of a bastard tire size...to big for a D30 but too small for tons.
 

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According to the Internet I should have spontaneously combusted years ago.
Oh man you should go knock on wood....


Every time I open my fat mouth something happens...i.e. on Holy Cross we were talking about tire pressures and not popping a bead. Not even 30 yards later I pop a bead...:banghead:
 

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Yes... Blast you 37s! If only 4 door jeeps on 35s didnt have the breakover angle of a tj on 31s it wouldn't be so tempting to go bigger haha. I have been successful so far, but I am certainly not confident in my axles to push my luck. If I can't crawl it smoothly I will winch or bypass.
 

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Oh man you should go knock on wood....

Every time I open my fat mouth something happens...i.e. on Holy Cross we were talking about tire pressures and not popping a bead. Not even 30 yards later I pop a bead...:banghead:
Haha... yes. Maybe I secretly want it to blow up to force an upgrade. ..although I would like to sell it as a functional axle not an exploded one...I guess as long as the RCVs are salvageable haha.
 

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Looks like a good time to learn to put an axle together! I think the axle shafts are the same aren't they? I feel like I read that some where. Other than that I think the carrier and r/p are different. But if you are going through the trouble to replace the 30, go for the gold and beef the piss out of it.
Axle shafts are the same as what? If you are comparing to the 44, then no. Rubi 44s have 32 spline shafts. Non rubi 44 is 30, and d30 is 27 spline. If you are upgrading to a 44 housing you can build a super 44 with an ARB carrier and 35 spline shafts. Personal preference though, some people believe in intentional leaving the shafts as a weak point since it is cheaper and easier to repair (you can buy a lot of stock shafts as spares for the price of RCVs), and people like myself believe in reinforcing them and trying to wheel between the limits of broken stock shaft and blown R and P. For reference I am also on 37s with a sleeved, trussed, RCV, geared and locked D30. According to the Internet I should have spontaneously combusted years ago.
Just to clarify... In regards to the front axle assemblies, the tubes, C's and outer axles (32 spline) are in fact the same. The inner axle shafts on the D30 are 27 spline, the inner axle shafts on the D44 are 30 spline. Only the rear axle shaft in the Rubi D44 has 32 splines (the non-Rubi rear D44 has 30 splines).

It should also be pointed out that, unless there is a product I am unaware of (completely possible), 35 spline shafts sold for use in the 44 are not a true and full 35 spline shaft like those used in a D60. Unless you move to a 44/60 hybrid, the shaft is only 35 spline diameter (1.50") for about 5" after which they step down to a 30 spline diameter (1.31") for fitment.

OP: Welcome to club 37! :drinks:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just to clarify... In regards to the front axle assemblies, the tubes, C's and outer axles (32 spline) are in fact the same. The inner axle shafts on the D30 are 27 spline, the inner axle shafts on the D44 are 30 spline. Only the rear axle shaft in the Rubi D44 has 32 splines (the non-Rubi rear D44 has 30 splines).

It should also be pointed out that, unless there is a product I am unaware of (completely possible), 35 spline shafts sold for use in the 44 are not a true and full 35 spline shaft like those used in a D60. Unless you move to a 44/60 hybrid, the shaft is only 35 spline diameter (1.50") for about 5" after which they step down to a 30 spline diameter (1.31") for fitment.

OP: Welcome to club 37! :drinks:
:drinks:

I've decided to just get it done and over with and do it right.

buy once, cry once

at the end of this month I'll be ordering:

Currie RockJock 44
Currie Red Iron Diff Cover
Currie Chromoly Shafts
Synergy Ball Joints
Yukon Front and Rear 5.13 Gears
Yukon Front and Rear Air Lockers

:beerdrinking:
 

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:drinks:

I've decided to just get it done and over with and do it right.

buy once, cry once

at the end of this month I'll be ordering:

Currie RockJock 44
Currie Red Iron Diff Cover
Currie Chromoly Shafts
Synergy Ball Joints
Yukon Front and Rear 5.13 Gears
Yukon Front and Rear Air Lockers

:beerdrinking:
My PR44 should be here in a couple weeks. If you make it to Ouray this July we can stand around and look at each others axles! :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm going to try my best to make the Ouray trip, it all depends on how much PTO I have by then since the wife really wants to take a beach trip in May.. We'll see how it goes!

I'm thinking I'm going to find a way to make it happen :)
 

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I stand corrected. I could have sworn I remember reading that some of the components of the 30 were the same as the 44. Guess not.
 

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I stand corrected. I could have sworn I remember reading that some of the components of the 30 were the same as the 44. Guess not.
You were on the right track! :thumb: The tubes, C's and outer shafts are exactly the same in the D44 & D30.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You were on the right track! :thumb: The tubes, C's and outer shafts are exactly the same in the D44 & D30.
Ended up changing a few things, apparently Currie only sells inner chromoly shafts and want you to reuse your outer stub shaft and u-joint from the Dana 30. That's crap.

So I changed the order a bit..

Currie RockJock 44
Currie Red Iron Diff Cover
TEN Factory Chromoly Shafts
Synergy Ball Joints
Yukon Front and Rear 5.13 Gears
And decided on Eaton Front and Rear E-Lockers instead
 

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Ended up changing a few things, apparently Currie only sells inner chromoly shafts and want you to reuse your outer stub shaft and u-joint from the Dana 30. That's crap.

So I changed the order a bit..

Currie RockJock 44
Currie Red Iron Diff Cover
TEN Factory Chromoly Shafts
Synergy Ball Joints
Yukon Front and Rear 5.13 Gears
And decided on Eaton Front and Rear E-Lockers instead
I think you'll like the Eaton lockers. I have them now and have not had any issues with them engaging/disengaging. I went with the ARB this round only because Eaton has not yet released their 4 pinion design for the D60 (still 2 pinion).
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think you'll like the Eaton lockers. I have them now and have not had any issues with them engaging/disengaging. I went with the ARB this round only because Eaton has not yet released their 4 pinion design for the D60 (still 2 pinion).
Gotcha, yeah I like the idea of the lockers relying solely on the switch of a button. Read a ton of good feedback so hearing more just makes me feel even better about making the switch. My suspension finally arrives today!!! :iamhappy:
 
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