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So I was having some wheel wobble on the passenger side, rear wheel of my new-to-me 2012 4Dr JKU Rubicon and when I noticed it, I assumed it was probably just a warped tire or warped wheel. It literally has brand new Fuel Battle Axe Aluminum wheels and brand new 285/70-17 Hankook Dynapro MT tires on it that the dealer put on to sell it less than 500 highway miles ago, which already had me fearing a warped Dana 44 axle shaft in the back of my mind as worst case scenario, but God forbid I said that out loud! Sure enough, upon further inspection (Always start with the simplest fix first! In my case: tire - wheel - axle) after pulling the wheel off and making sure it was in-fact round and balanced, I could clearly see that the rotor and caliper were NOT spinning true. It was WAY out. As a Machinist by trade, I was about to get a dial indicator out and check the runout anyway but after spinning the rotor assembly by hand I was able to see that there was no need for further inspection and that it was out by at LEAST 3/16” to a 1/4” on rotation (calibrated eyeballs of course). That translated into a VERY noticeable wobble with my 285/70-17 bolted to it. So much so that a random fellow Jeeper in a TJ was driving behind me down my street and when I pulled in to my driveway he was courteous enough to stop and tell me that it looked like my right rear wheels was about to come off!!! (He said he thought that the lug nuts were loose). This also explains the break squeak that I would hear at half rotations when coming to a stop, I thought I just needed new pads... Oddly enough, I never felt any vibrations, even on 2 hour interstate driving at various speeds... however - I am new to the Jeep crowd and this is my first Wrangler that I’ve ever driven, so as a disclaimer; I cannot say that there wasn’t any vibrations occurring because I’ve obviously never felt a stock ride in this thing yet and I am used to daily driving my old 1998 Dodge Ram on 33” Cooper STT Pros that is now retired to be my hunting truck.

I’m linking in some videos of the axle shaft runout. The first one was filmed while driving (sorry for awkward view from rearview mirror while driving, hey I got creative...) the second one is the axle shaft assembly after I pulled the wheel off. Clearly evident when you watch the rotor...

Driving: https://youtu.be/dMYc65QUOSk
Wheel off: https://youtu.be/6NEssAf4jCA

So for time being, I went ahead and swapped the rear two tires to COMPLETELY eliminate the possibility of it being that specific wheel/tire (hey, even with the compelling rotor runout evidence, I’ve seen stranger coincidences occur). Lo and behold the passenger rear wheel still wobbles like crazy so I know for a fact that it’s my axle shaft. You know, process of elimination and all that jazz.

So, here’s the reason for my post: Obviously I am now on the market for new rear axle shafts (upgrading both, even though the drivers side rear is fine). I have done heavy research like I always do when I need to fix or upgrade something and I am no stranger to axle shafts as I had replaced all front and rear Spicer axle shaft U-joints on my ‘98 Ram 1500 that I mentioned earlier (Dana 44 up front with Chrysler 9.25 rear), so I am no stranger to the task and I know that it’s an easy swap to just replace the shafts. I’m not wanting to go all out and buy the most heavy duty axle shafts that I can find (stay under ~$600 preferably for a driver and passenger side complete kit). With that being said, I have been strongly looking at the “TEN Factory” rear axle shafts (Rubicon Dana 44 w/ 32 Spline)
https://www.northridge4x4.com/fits/2012-jeep-wrangler-jk-unlimited-rubicon-3-6l-5at-4wd-116-0wb-4dr/axle-shafts/mg22157-pressbearing-ten-factory-dana-44-rear-32-spline-axle-kit-w-press-bearing#reviews

Just about every aftermarket axle shaft I find is a tough 4-series metal and/or is Chrome Molybdenum and hardened steel, etc. so they all are pretty close to each other from my machinist perspective. However, I’m just looking for some input on different brands vs others (Ten Factory, G2, Yukon Gear, Nitro Gear & Axle, Revolution, the list goes on...) and what some of you guys are running and have had experience with before I pull the trigger on he TEN Factory kit. I am new to the Jeep lifestyle so I don’t plan to be tackling Moab anytime soon but I will definitely be looking to weekend-warrior trail ride often and I am a major practitioner of “do it once, do it right,” so I will not be cutting corners on this build, that’s for sure, and I want my daily driver Rubicon to be able to take what I throw at it and look good doing it. (Isn’t that what we all want, lol?). Any input is appreciated! I need to order ASAP!!!

P.s. I’m actually kind of glad, in a way, that it wasn’t my wheel or tire because I did NOT want to drop money on an already-new wheel and tire. I also think that this is my first case of “Jeep Parts High” or JPH as the kids call it on the streets. I’ve never been somewhat... ((excited?))... to have to throw money at my vehicle to replace something that’s broken!!! It’s an new feeling that the Jeep community has brought to me and it’s quite confusing and if I tell my nurse wife, she’ll probably commit me to the psych ward that she works at.... I’m glad we can talk about these feelings here. Oh well, at least I’ll have some upgraded, more dependable rear axle shafts for when I switch to the 35” tires and 3.5 more inches of lift that I see coming in my Jeep crystal ball... ~~~

-eSCAPEist
 

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I had the exact same experience, right rear tire wobble that felt like an out of balance tire. Changed to the spare in a parking lot during a 450 mile trip. So same with the spare. Got home and pulled the RR tire and brake assembly. Long story short it was G2 replacements for me. All 4 axle shafts at once hopefully to never happen, fingers crossed as I do like to wheel some rocks.
 
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I would recommend Revolution Gear American made 4340 Chromoly shafts. They come with the bearing, seal and backing plate installed, all you have to do is screw on the wheel studs. Lifetime warranty which includes flanges.

That's what I put on mine and I wheel hard.
 

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Ten Factory shafts are cheap, especially after using the Northridge 4x4 10% off coupon. I’ve already bent one set that was replaced under warranty. Northridge customer service was helpful and processed the claim on my behalf.

If you have the extra cash, go with the Domestic produced RGA shafts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all of the input so far! Keep it coming! Looks like Revolution is most preferred so far. I’m a sucker for American made parts too...
 

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Thanks for all of the input so far! Keep it coming! Looks like Revolution is most preferred so far. I’m a sucker for American made parts too...
I've got a set on order now. :)
 
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I got some recommendations a few months ago, and decided I wanted to go with revolution. When I started looking (and emailed Brandon with a couple questions) three months ago, they were out of stock on the rubicon rears. They're still out of stock, and now Brandon won't respond to my emails. So while I'd like to go revolution and recommend them, it looks like I'll have to go another direction.

Luckily, I don't have a bent flange (yet), so it's not urgent for me...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got some recommendations a few months ago, and decided I wanted to go with revolution. When I started looking (and emailed Brandon with a couple questions) three months ago, they were out of stock on the rubicon rears. They're still out of stock, and now Brandon won't respond to my emails. So while I'd like to go revolution and recommend them, it looks like I'll have to go another direction.

Luckily, I don't have a bent flange (yet), so it's not urgent for me...
Thanks for the heads up... I actually just noticed that on their website it says that they’re out of stock for the Rubicon kit, like you said... that sucks! I’ll try to email them and see if they respond. I’ll post here if I find anything out. Man that’s a bummer if I got all hyped up for the Revolutions and can’t even find any!!!
 

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to long. did not read
 
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to long. did not read
Didn’t read but took the time to troll on the thread? Cool.

Yes, I did realize it was too lengthy after I posted but forgive me for not being that guy who clogs up the the forum saying “part brok wut fix?” Also, I’ve done extensive research looking for similar problems and I couldn’t find anyone who has posted on here, in good detail, of the problem at hand. My intent was to create this thread so that someone else with the same problem can find it online by searching the same signs and symptoms and know what to do to fix it. I’m out here to help other people as well. Knowledge is useless unless it’s shared.

But this might be too much for you to read also.
 

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Ten Factory shafts are cheap, especially after using the Northridge 4x4 10% off coupon. I’ve already bent one set that was replaced under warranty. Northridge customer service was helpful and processed the claim on my behalf.

If you have the extra cash, go with the Domestic produced RGA shafts.
You are lucky. 10 Factory doesn't usually warranty bent shafts. I know several people who were told tough luck. Fortunately Northridge cares enough to do the right thing.


Non Rubi in stock on Amazon.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BW6SQO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon has the Rubi too but they want a premium for those. I would wait for revolution to get those back in stock.
 
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Update: The information that I’ve received today is that the Revolution Rubicon shafts are on backorder at the moment due to their vendors machine being down. ETA is the end of this month (end of July). That information is coming directly from Brandon at Revolution Gear and Axle as well as multiple distributors that have also spoken with Revolution today. The Revolution Non-Rubicon 30 spline shafts seem to be in stock from various distributors but I am in need of the Rubicon 32 spline shafts. Only time will tell...
 

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Thanks for all of the input so far! Keep it coming! Looks like Revolution is most preferred so far. I’m a sucker for American made parts too...
On a different note, make sure the nut / washer thing that holds the brake disk on during assembly has been removed unless your new wheels have a gap they fit into. Some aftermarket wheels will not bolt on straight if you don't remove that widget.
 

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Update: The information that I’ve received today is that the Revolution Rubicon shafts are on backorder at the moment due to their vendors machine being down. ETA is the end of this month (end of July). That information is coming directly from Brandon at Revolution Gear and Axle as well as multiple distributors that have also spoken with Revolution today. The Revolution Non-Rubicon 30 spline shafts seem to be in stock from various distributors but I am in need of the Rubicon 32 spline shafts. Only time will tell...
+1 on Revolution.
FWIW it's not just the spline count that's different, Non-Rubis are equal length shafts, Rubi shafts are not equal. Make sure you know which side is short/long before you tackle the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
On a different note, make sure the nut / washer thing that holds the brake disk on during assembly has been removed unless your new wheels have a gap they fit into. Some aftermarket wheels will not bolt on straight if you don't remove that widget.
See... this is what I’m talking about, right here. Thinking outside if the box! That is a very valid point that you made there that is so easily looked over. I actually already noticed when I pulled my wheel that all of the little “rotor stud locks” (I’m calling them) that come stock on the wheel mounting studs were removed for my aftermarket wheels. However, this is exactly the kind of overlooked information that people are looking for when they come to these forums. Kudos to you for the attentiveness!
 

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+1 on Revolution.
FWIW it's not just the spline count that's different, Non-Rubis are equal length shafts, Rubi shafts are not equal. Make sure you know which side is short/long before you tackle the job.
You are exactly right. This is an extremely valid point that I forgot to mention for anyone who hasn’t attempted this before. Thank you for the input. Good info for those who would most likely look over this until it’s too late!
 
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Welcome to the Achillies Heel of the JK rear D44. So far I've bent a set of Superior chromoloys (Foote Axle & Forge, out of business) and two sets of G2s. The first set of the latter 4WP warrantied, but they demanded to inspect them first. Fortunately I had a set of Alloys on the shelf, so I swapped them out and waited a month or so. 4WP had argued "We've never heard of this, you have a bent wheel...no?, then you have a bent rotor...NO??? Ok, then we have to inspect them." $80 to ship them to 4WP, they sent a new set immediately. Those bent in one fairly gentle trip to Moab. I didn;t even bother getting them replaced, they went in the trash and I kept the Alloys in service. They have been in there for a year or so and appear to be ok so far, but I expect they're one ledge away from the dreaded wobble. Next set will be Tens and we'll see how it goes. However, short of a full floater rear axle this is going to be your life for as long as you build it heavy & wheel it hard.
 
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