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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im at my wits end, but i will try to keep the swearing to a minimum here.

1. A common problem, I cant get the rear shock bolt off. I dont want to drill this and buy more tools. But Ive rounded the head, but the bolt actually eroded the IRWIN bolt-grip sockets i bought. well, thats $30 down the drain. I cannot get this bolt to break free. I dont have a tap or die, or possibly even a drill strong enough to do this. Ive used heat and also freeze spray. I cant get anything to bite on it now....

2. In the thread where JeepsR4me brought this idea up, http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/d...t-jk-parts-fit-tj-suspension-wise-150213.html he talked about heating the coil spring then pushing the bushing cup in. Ive heated it with a propane torch for like 15 straight minutes and its not budging. Suggestions? Help? This was supposed to be an afternoon project that now has like 20 hours into it.
 

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1. gotta cut it off with a dremel. may need to drop the gas tank to get access.

2. propane torch won't do squat, it won't get hot enough. you need an oxygen-acetylene torch, which cost several hundred bucks. after you heat it up and make it fit, that section will no longer be a spring because the act of heating it will destroy the temper.

my advise - stop wasting your money trying to fit JK stuff on a TJ. the rear springs and shocks are not a good match at all IMHO...they need 2.5" bumpstop extension to fit, and the travel really sucks compared to TJ shocks in that length range. If you're too cheap to do it right with proper length/rate TJ springs, you're better off looking into Crown Vic springs with a good set of TJ shocks.

the use of front JK springs on a TJ i've seen actually lose height vs stock TJ springs - they require a big spacer to get any kind of lift. if you lift install springs that require a giant spacer to get any lift, you're doing it wrong. you're better off using V8 ZJ springs, or using proper rate/length TJ lift springs. the JK front shocks will work on the front of a TJ, but requires about 0.5-1"+ bumpstop extension depending on how you deal with the bar pin problem.
 

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Which rear shock bolt? The uppers are studs. You should be removing one nut, not both. Loosen the other and the slotted bar pin on the shock mount will slide out. If these are giving you trouble, bend away at the tub of the jeep just above the frame so you can get a wrench in there. If it is the lower side you cant get off. Should be trying to loosen the nut, not the bolt. Never the bolt. Once the nut is loose, then you can use a pry bar and try and rotate the seized nut free. If neither works, cut the bolt head off, cut the nut off, use a pry bar to spread the lower shock mount a bit and run a hacksaw blade between the shock bushing and mount to cut more of the bolt so you can pry it out.
 

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Mine werent studs. The nut is welded above the frame and the bolt went into that. I had to loosen both to get the bar pin out. Lots of PBblaster...lots
 

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1. gotta cut it off with a dremel. may need to drop the gas tank to get access.

2. propane torch won't do squat, it won't get hot enough. you need an oxygen-acetylene torch, which cost several hundred bucks. after you heat it up and make it fit, that section will no longer be a spring because the act of heating it will destroy the temper.

my advise - stop wasting your money trying to fit JK stuff on a TJ. the rear springs and shocks are not a good match at all IMHO...they need 2.5" bumpstop extension to fit, and the travel really sucks compared to TJ shocks in that length range. If you're too cheap to do it right with proper length/rate TJ springs, you're better off looking into Crown Vic springs with a good set of TJ shocks.

the use of front JK springs on a TJ i've seen actually lose height vs stock TJ springs - they require a big spacer to get any kind of lift. if you lift install springs that require a giant spacer to get any lift, you're doing it wrong. you're better off using V8 ZJ springs, or using proper rate/length TJ lift springs. the JK front shocks will work on the front of a TJ, but requires about 0.5-1"+ bumpstop extension depending on how you deal with the bar pin problem.
X2 jk parts are not rated for the geometry or a tj or the weight. Could've saved money, even a budget kit like zone or RC is a better fit than jk parts
 

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Which rear shock bolt? The uppers are studs. You should be removing one nut, not both. Loosen the other and the slotted bar pin on the shock mount will slide out. If these are giving you trouble, bend away at the tub of the jeep just above the frame so you can get a wrench in there. If it is the lower side you cant get off. Should be trying to loosen the nut, not the bolt. Never the bolt. Once the nut is loose, then you can use a pry bar and try and rotate the seized nut free. If neither works, cut the bolt head off, cut the nut off, use a pry bar to spread the lower shock mount a bit and run a hacksaw blade between the shock bushing and mount to cut more of the bolt so you can pry it out.
Rear TJ shock uppers are a traditional eyelet with a bar through them, fastened down to the frame's cross member with two bolts. If your rear uppers are studs, some serious ******* engineering/fabrication must have taken place.

To the OP; agreeing with ditching the JK shocks. No sense in doing several hours in work and hard labor to save 30, 50, or even 150 bucks. Even if the shocks were free, you'll have major suspension geometry problems with them installed.

With that being said, if you truly want to continue with the JK shocks, here's what i did.
-unbolt all the body bolts, leave the side of the shock you are NOT dealing with loose, but not completely unbolted.
-Jack up the side of the body with the shock you are dealing with. This gave me enough room to get my dremel in there with my 90 degree attachment and a fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheel. It made short work of the nut/bolt.(I would put water-soaked rags on the gas tank though just for safety) Then, you just use a normal nut and bolt when you put in the new shock.
-Repeat for the other side.

It takes a lot of work but this is the easiest method i can think of if you lack the torches/drill bits/drill to do it from the bottom.
 
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