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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I've got a question, I have a 04 Jeep TJ I am placing a 4 inch suspension lift on it. I read the directions and it says to mark the front lower links and then replace them, it says to do all this with the wheels on the jeep sitting on the ground.

Do you have to have the wheels on it with it sitting on the ground to replace the front lower links? It seems like this would make it more difficult to get to them. It also states to mark the lower links, what exactly are you marking? the picture is unclear on what is being marked and why.

The directions also state to leave everything loose until your done assembling everything such as sway bar links, control arm etc. What is your opinion on that?

Your help would greatly be appreciated, and maybe before this is all over I will have learned enough to pass the information I learned from all of you to someone else.

One more question I almost forgot. My transfer case spacer's which would be described as long square tubing each with 3 holes. well one is longer than the other and from just holding them up to the bolts currently in the transfer case mount it does not appear the holes line up with the bolts.

Again Thanks in advance
 

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Don't know what you are referring to, when you're talking about marking the links. Are they adjustable? Or are they referring to a bend in them (inside and outside)?

Before torquing your suspension parts to their proper values, the weight of the Jeep should be sitting on the front axle. You don't have to have the wheels on, just put jack stands under the axle.

Check those t-case drop bars both directions on both sides. The mounting holes are not the same.

Don't forget to reset your toe-in after the lift. Your front tires will be severely toed-in after a 4" lift.

Hope your Skyjacker lift treats you better than mine did. I was replacing mine in less than a year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The marks they are talking about are on the front of the links where they mount to the front axle. They show a mark on the side where it appears factory marks are.
 

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The marks they are talking about are on the front of the links where they mount to the front axle. They show a mark on the side where it appears factory marks are.
Okay, figured it out.. Skyjacker uses the term link for control arms in some places as well as sway bar links. It's talking about indexing the cam bolt (pinion angle/caster adjustment cam) to the same place it originally was on the lower control arm mounts on the front axle. It's really not super critical. Just set them about in the center (if you even have them). They did away with the cams on later model TJ's.

It is basically telling you to mark the position of the cam bolt, then when you install the new lower control arms position the cam bolt in the same place.

BTW, if this kit came with a dropped pitman arm, don't install it (use your stock one) The dropped pitman arm will screw up your steering geometry and produce bump steer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you, your explanation has helped me understand it better. Honestly I didn't think it would be this difficult lifting a jeep but it has felt like a chore. But as weird as it sounds I would probably do it all again since it has been a learning experience.

As for the drop pitman arm, I did install the drop pitman arm and moved the track bar by drilling a new hole as per the directions. In your opinion do you think I should still put the stock pitman arm back on? I've read on other forums where people suggested replacing the stock track bar with what they called a currie track bar set up to help prevent bump steer. What opinion do you have on that,
 

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Yes, put the stock pitman arm on. Then call up MetalCloak up and order them front adjustable track bar and mount it in your factory hole. The front track bar is $179.
 

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Thank you, your explanation has helped me understand it better. Honestly I didn't think it would be this difficult lifting a jeep but it has felt like a chore. But as weird as it sounds I would probably do it all again since it has been a learning experience.

As for the drop pitman arm, I did install the drop pitman arm and moved the track bar by drilling a new hole as per the directions. In your opinion do you think I should still put the stock pitman arm back on? I've read on other forums where people suggested replacing the stock track bar with what they called a currie track bar set up to help prevent bump steer. What opinion do you have on that,
The stock track bar will work relocated to the new hole, but it is not the best solution as there is not a lot of metal left where the new hole is drilled. Now that it's drilled, if you want to go to an adjustable track bar which would have been much better in the first place, it would be wise to weld a piece of metal over both holes and redrill the stock hole through it. (see picture) The Metalcloak track bar that Skrow recommended would be an excellent choice. TJ/LJ Jeep Wrangler Solid Chromoly Front Track Bar

You should reinstall your stock pitman arm. The dropped pitman arm is what will cause bump steer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If I got a front end alignment and then changed my track bar do I have to get another front end alignment? Also the radiator bump stops that I have to install below the radiator seems to be a pain. I installed the 1.25 inch body lift per instructions, one of the very last steps were to install the bumpstops under radiator. It almost appears there is not enough room to get the new ones in. Any suggestions?

Also I have one body mount spacer I'm having issues with, I've got all installed with medium loc-tite and torqued. but the body spacer near the drivers front wheel the bolt will not start. I've tried everything to get it lined up with no luck. Any idea how to resolve this issue since the nut is inside the body with no way to get access to it.
 

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If I got a front end alignment and then changed my track bar do I have to get another front end alignment? Also the radiator bump stops that I have to install below the radiator seems to be a pain. I installed the 1.25 inch body lift per instructions, one of the very last steps were to install the bumpstops under radiator. It almost appears there is not enough room to get the new ones in. Any suggestions?

Also I have one body mount spacer I'm having issues with, I've got all installed with medium loc-tite and torqued. but the body spacer near the drivers front wheel the bolt will not start. I've tried everything to get it lined up with no luck. Any idea how to resolve this issue since the nut is inside the body with no way to get access to it.
So you're doing a total of 5.25" of lift? What size tires are you going to run?

You shouldn't have any of the body bolts torqued down until they are all started. Normally you loosen one side, and change the opposite side (without tightening the side that has been changed), then change the other side. The bumpers under the radiator can be installed when the individual side is jacked up to change the body mounts.

At this point, I would loosen (but not remove) the rest of the body bolts, put a jack under the side you're having issues with, and try using a pin punch or similar to line it up. With it jacked up a little, try your radiator bumpers. When you loosen the bolts, don't forget the one in the center front.

You can do a front end alignment yourself. Toe-in is all that can be adjusted since you have fixed lower control arms. Here's a pdf write up of how to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, I've got it all together so now all that is left is to do the alignment the way ou sent in the attachment. As for tires I'm running 35's. I took it for a test drive and was very pleased. Although I still have to swat out the pitman arm to put the stock one back on. I noticed I had just a bit of sway in it driving down highway, I'm hoping this will be corrected by putting the old pitman arm back on. Again THANKS for all the help.
 
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