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Discussion Starter #1
This is likely going to sound a bit 'stupid', but I just want to make certain I'm understanding a gear change correctly.
First, changing from 3:07 to 4:56 (or whatever is closest to that). My understanding is that I need a new carrier to accomplish the changes. Now, with respect to lockers, and with the exception of the lunchbox styles, aren't the lockers themselves the carrier? And if so, wouldn't the gear change be the most advantageous time to add a locker since I'm buying a carrier anyway. I do realize the difference in price, but if a locker were in my future, now's the time right?
And last question: lockers state something like fits 3:XX and "higher numerical numbers". So a 4:10 or 4:56 would be the higher number? Don't want to get that one backwards.
 

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Lunch box lockers are not the carrier they replace the spider gears inside of the carrier.



Carrier



lunch box locker








Then you have lockers that are the carrier like OX, ARB, ect..



These lockers are expensive and not worth the investment for stock axles especially the D35 that are weak to begin with.
 

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I believe 4:10's are as low as you can go with your 3:07 carrier, 4:56 woyld require a new carrier. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Carrier break on the D35 is 2.21 - 3.31:1 and 3.55 - 4.88:1

You can not use a 4.10 ring gear on a 3.07 carrier you will need a new one.
 

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Yes you need a new carrier

Yes if you want any locker other than a lunchbox version then it is better to put it in when regearing because it IS the carrier.

Yes even if you wanted a lunchbox locker it would still be a good idea to do it at the same time... tho not as important as if it were a full case locker.
 

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Yes you need a new carrier

Yes if you want any locker other than a lunchbox version then it is better to put it in when regearing because it IS the carrier.

Yes even if you wanted a lunchbox locker it would still be a good idea to do it at the same time... tho not as important as if it were a full case locker.
This is the correct answer(s) ^^^^^^^^
 

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Going to add to Gottagofast's post. If you have a D35 in the rear it would be best to build a Super 35 with a full case locker that accepts 30 spline 1541H axle shafts. The stock 27 spline shafts are too weak for even a lunch box locker.
 

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I just went through the questions that 283 YJ asks.
I compared the cost of 2 new ring and pinion assemblies and 2 new carriers. Plus the cost of tools that (as an old buzzard) I'll probably never use again.

I was lucky enough to find a set of 4 cyl axles for $500.00. I had to take them out of a '91 rustbucket. A Sawzall worked wonders for that.

283 YJ, are you sure you need 4:88 gears? That SBC will be winding out with that low a gearset. What size tires are you currently running?
33" tires are the max that the D35 can handle for any length of time, and 31s are even safer.
Other posters can tell you what RPM you'll be turning at highway speeds.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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I run 33's w 4.10's and the stock 4.0 and have been beating my stock 30/35 HARD since 2007 and have yet to break my stock 27 spline shafts.... had an ez locker for a couple years too but had 31's then... took it out tho because it was annoying on the street
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Mac. Thought about buying used, but since I've already put new bearings, brakes etc in mine, I feel like just replacing the components in what I have now is my best bet. Everything will be new and fresh, while I wouldn't know what I was getting used.
I'll likely go 4:56. Right now I can only use 5th on the flat. ANY incline is a downshift. And I can see much larger tires in my near future. It's kind of a crap shoot, just guessing what's going to work with my engine and tires, plus changes in the future.
I think too that I'll just leave the rear diff alone (aside from gear change) and put a lunch-box up front.
If I'm wrong? Oh well. Won't be my first one
 

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You're right, going with used is a crapshoot. My rear carrier bearings need replacing, so the used axle may or may not be better. The donor Jeep had 25K less miles and didn't appear to be badly cobbled up (just rusted).
As I clean up and install the axles, I'll keep the forum updated.

I get back surgery next month, and I have a large woodworking project to finish for Mrs. Lucky before I begin the axles. It may be a while but once I'm healed I should be good to go once more. Doc says 9 months to a year recovery time. I'm hoping for less.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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Going to add to Gottagofast's post. If you have a D35 in the rear it would be best to build a Super 35 with a full case locker that accepts 30 spline 1541H axle shafts. The stock 27 spline shafts are too weak for even a lunch box locker.
Super 35's add several hundred to the costs and limited locker choices. Lockers for 30 spline have a premium charge.

Stock 27 spline can and do last with proper driving. They can also be upgraded for HD options with stronger metals and better spline cuts. From about 200 per pair up to 400 per pair.

It's all on how much a person really needs / how often they need as much as they think. It's easy to get into the bigger is better and spend $$$ when its not needed. Then the flip side is being cheap and spending money twice after breaking down.
 

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It's all on how much a person really needs / how often they need as much as they think. It's easy to get into the bigger is better and spend $$$ when its not needed. Then the flip side is being cheap and spending money twice after breaking down.
This is really true. I'm sure enough that a stock D35 will work for my type of use.

BUT

I firmly believe that it's better to have bigger/better and spend the money to do it right (and not need it) than to cheap out and end up broke down somewhere just to find out that you really needed the "bigger/better".

JMHO, but I get my opinion from years of experience with all sorts of vehicles.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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^ At some point bigger is not needed.

Stock
Stock upgraded axles
Stock with the best 27 spline
Stock with the best 27 spline also cryo-treated
Super 35 w/ budget axles
Super 35 w/ best 30 spline axles

At some point a Ford 8.8 swap is better, stronger or more cost effective.

Then for not much more you can get a bolt in Dana 44 from Eastcoast gears.
Starting at 2200$ with open diff or $2600 with Detroit truetrac.
Brand New Dana 44 Casting Bracketed with YJ Heavy Duty Brackets (100% USA Made)
* Semi-Float Set 10 Housing Ends (USA Made) (Roller Tapered Bearings) Welded on to Accept Stock YJ Drum Brakes
* 2 - 30 Spline Chromoly Shafts Double Drilled for both: 5x4.5 and 5x5.5
* Shafts are Fully Assembled with Set 10 Bearings, Retainer Plates and Retaining Hardware (no worry about c-clips)


ttps://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-19455122-dana-44-yj-rear-bolt-in-axle-assembly-30-spline.html

I want the D44. But then my front axle would be the weak link..... I could have about 50% of my YJ value in axles.
 

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For off road use only?
 
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