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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im having problems with my manual transmission not wanting to go into 2nd gear and when it dose go it grinds and it also dose it some times in 4th and reverse. im thinking maybe the shifter boot has somthin to do with it. it has a transfercase drop bracket will the extra drop keep it from goin into gear? or is my trans just shot?? it only has 83,xxx miles on it. and a new clutch profesionaly installed it did it with the old clutch also
 

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Do you have a body lift? If so how much?
 

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Mine grinds too going into reverse most of the time and 2nd only when it's real cold. I think you might of hit the nail on the head with the shifter boot. But I'll let someone more knowledgable tell you for sure
 

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When they replaced the clutch did they also replace the master/slave cylinders? If the slave cylinder isn't providing full throw it will cause the same symptom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No they didn't replace the slave cylinder. It looked like it was replaced b4 tho it looked cleaner than everything else. I'll replace it this weekend and c what happens
 

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Disconnect your console and rule out the shifter boot first. Might be a cheap fix. I left mine disconnected because my BL and MML makes getting into second impossible. It'll probably stay like that until I do a TT.
 

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My transmission used to grind in 3rd,hard shifting to second and poped out of first all the time,@131k miles I drained the gear oil and switched too synthetic pennzoil 5w20 motor oil in the transmission(ax-15).I have 160k on the clock(for 3 years the odo and dash didnt work so the mileage is alot higher,est.200k)and the transmission feels new.No issues.
Reverse will always be difficult as there are no synchros on reverse.

Im not saying that the synthetic motor oil will cure your problem,It did cure mine and it cost about $30 for the oil
 

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The 2nd and 4th grinding are symptomatic of slave cylinder not engaging throwout bearing fully. Seen it happen MANY times. Try having someone depress clutch and check movement of TO bearing and slave. BLOCK THE WHEELS......and NOT WHILE RUNNING.
 

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recently(in the yj section)there was a guy who had similar problem,He took his transmission to a shop to rebuild it.They rebuilt the tranny but it had the same issues so he brought it back to that shop.

The shop called him and told him that there was a teflon/plastic piece that was worn on the end of the shift lever that was causing the problem.
Pull off your shift lever and check that,If that piece is worn it wont let the gears fully engage.

BTW that guy was pissed cause he had to pay for a $1000 rebuild over a $2 piece of plastic that the shop didnt check
 

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motorhead302 said:
I thought it was the syncros were gone too but it still does it when I double clutch
Double clutching serves a greater purpose than simply disengaging and engaging the clutch for each shift, the time it takes to d-c gives your engine the time it needs for the RPMs to drop, thereby matching the gears up. I drive 18 whlr and only use the clutch to engage in the gear I choose to begin moving, and when everything I's torque locked. It's all about matching RPMs and gears. Most drivers of cars, never bother to match things up, they just depress the clutch, and shift. Driving like that causes a lot of wear and tear on the syncro's, which why so many folks have trans problems with such low mileage.
 

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Try tearing or cutting the inner shift boot around where 2nd, 4th, and Reverse gears are located. i did this to mine and it shifts 1000x better
 

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Maybe to simple and obvious---Had same issue for a couple days after lift--took it back to shop and they adjusted ?????? I don't know enough to know--they had put on an OME--anyway same tranny 150K miles clutch replaced once no grinding.

Just giving info......Good Luck!
 

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Pops outta 5th
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thank yall for the advice I'm gona start with the shitter boot . But I think it might also be the slave cylinder too cause its a new clutch and it always releases a diffrent way its not right. It also has a very nosey throw out bearing but its new so I know its not worn out. So it might b that its not releasing completly.
 

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Do you know what transmission you have??i know that in 2000 you could of either gotten the old ax-5(I think ) or nv3550. I know that I have the 3550 and had problems shifting into 2nd. I changed the fluid to penzoil synchromesh and it fixed the problem but I've heard now that it's not good for the syncros. And NV has once again changed the recommended fluid for the transmission because of problems with the syncros. And now I'm getting grinding shifting into 1 or 2nd from a dead stop. I think I need to check my slave cylinder too. Let us know if that fixes your problem because there are probably more of us here with the same problem.
 

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My TJ does the same, It's so grumpy right off the get go going into second and R. One piece of advice that I got on the forum was when shifting from 1st to second, baby it, stay on the clutch a little longer and pull it nice and sloooow. Once you get the tran fluids warmed up mine goes away. It's just a little grumpy when it's cold :) You may want to try different trans fluids, see which one has the best temper.

Also, they make a leather shift boot that won't be hassley in the cold. Look into it.
 
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