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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
K.... Final decision .... Metalcloak GC for my JKUR. Next decision 2.5 w MC fenders or just do 3.5". I love the look of 3.5 w 35s. But I'm a bit worried with the added geometry changes that extra inch does to the JK. THOUGHTS/Comments??
 

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I went with the 3.5 for a better breakover angle since I have a 4 door like you. No regrets. But the prevailing wisdom is that yes, you will need to do something about your front driveshaft sooner. Also the reduced caster doesn't really bother me in my 4 door.

You're getting the MC fenders either way?
 

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I ended up with the 2.5" and had to add a 3/4" spacer in front to level and it's still a little high in the rear. With the flat fenders I am sure I have room for 37's now. Just food for thought.
 

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Depending on your armor/bumpers/equipment your 2.5" lift might net you closer to 3-3.5". I have a 2" lift right now that clears 35's with stock fenders, there's a little rubbing during full flex but high clearance fenders would take care of that no problem.

However I also agree with Chitown35 above. A 4dr suffers from awful breakover angle and needs more lift than a 2dr to get over the same obstacles. My 2" lift and 35" tires gets down a trail that a 4dr with 3.5" lift and 35's gets hung up on.
 

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Depending on your armor/bumpers/equipment your 2.5" lift might net you closer to 3-3.5".
^ Yes.

Also OP, remember lift height alone does not by itself affect clearing a tire size at full flex. That is affected more directly by what height bumpstop you run (reduces travel), which fenders, and wheel backspacing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thx. Was planning on stock fenders if I went w 3.5". Either way, 2.5 or 3.5, I'm replace frt driveshaft. Am more worried about the steering angles and early fatigue/failure on steering componentS w the 3.5. Should that b a concern for me??
 

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Thx. Was planning on stock fenders if I went w 3.5". Either way, 2.5 or 3.5, I'm replace frt driveshaft. Am more worried about the steering angles and early fatigue/failure on steering componentS w the 3.5. Should that b a concern for me??
I would not be concerned with the steering components due to the additional height. At some point you might want to consider a high steer kit for a 3.5" lift. But you are looking at it correctly a 2.5 with flats or 3.5 with stock fenders, both are great builds when you're using a premium lift kit like MetalCloak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I would not be concerned with the steering components due to the additional height. At some point you might want to consider a high steer kit for a 3.5" lift. But you are looking at it correctly a 2.5 with flats or 3.5 with stock fenders, both are great builds when you're using a premium lift kit like MetalCloak.
Thx Pressurized. I value ur opinion after reading many of ur comments. It's very evident u have immense knowledge and tons of JK experience.
 

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But you are looking at it correctly a 2.5 with flats or 3.5 with stock fenders
If we're not talking strictly on-road (are we?), how does lift height affect fender selection?

Edit: I mean specifically for the OP and Metalcloak, since their shock lengths (and thus bumpstop) seem to be the same for 2.5 as it is for 3.5.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If we're not talking strictly on-road (are we?), how does lift height affect fender selection? Edit: I mean specifically for the OP and Metalcloak, since their shock lengths (and thus bumpstop) seem to be the same for 2.5 as it is for 3.5.
While I do take jeep out to Moab and local places a 4-6Xs / yr. I have small kids and a cautious wife so we don't do any crazy crawling. Additionally, I live in SoCal so it sees a fair amount of on road use for snow trips etc. I wanna fit 35s nicely w no rubbing. From what I've read and pics I've seen.... Like the look of added clearance. Hence, fenders w 2.5 or no fenders w 3.5 and just put that $$$ toward steering components etc for the higher lift.
 

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While I do take jeep out to Moab and local places a 4-6Xs / yr. I have small kids and a cautious wife so we don't do any crazy crawling. Additionally, I live in SoCal so it sees a fair amount of on road use for snow trips etc. I wanna fit 35s nicely w no rubbing. From what I've read and pics I've seen.... Like the look of added clearance. Hence, fenders w 2.5 or no fenders w 3.5 and just put that $$$ toward steering components etc for the higher lift.
You'll be fine either way, you may just need to add an additional inch or two of bumpstop if you don't get flat fenders.
 

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Thx. Was planning on stock fenders if I went w 3.5". Either way, 2.5 or 3.5, I'm replace frt driveshaft. Am more worried about the steering angles and early fatigue/failure on steering componentS w the 3.5. Should that b a concern for me??
I'm in a 4dr running 3.5" (RK), and have zero steering issues...and no DL flip. Some do, some don't. Try lifting it and see, just be prepared to address it because it may be an issue.
 

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Bumpstop question for those with the MC 3.5

MC suggests all 4 bumpstop pucks if you are running 35's with stock fenders.
I am looking at this as WAAAAAYYY too conservative for my 2016 rubi

I am going to drop down to three pucks this weekend and am contemplating two. I want to decide before MOAB so what's everyone else running after the 3.5" MC game changer? Any issues with the stock fenders and less bumpstop?

Anyone having vibration issues above 65-70? My tires (315/70/17 Duratracs) are all balanced & I am trying to track down the source.

Chime in on this too: What are the opinions on the OME shocks with the GC lift (I'm missing my old Rancho 9000's at the moment)
 

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If we're not talking strictly on-road (are we?), how does lift height affect fender selection?

Edit: I mean specifically for the OP and Metalcloak, since their shock lengths (and thus bumpstop) seem to be the same for 2.5 as it is for 3.5.
35's on a 2.5 with factory fenders requires "extra" bump stop... You lose up travel needing to protect the fenders. Put on flats and you get full travel. You are right, on certain lift kits that run the exact same shocks on 2.5 and 3.5, you may still have to run extra bump at 3.5 but you get the improved break over with the extra ride height. That's why a 2.5 with flats is my favorite build, especially on a 2dr. And a 3.5 with 37's and flats on a 4dr.

Unfortunately, almost none of the standard "kits" are optimized but they are still really good...
 

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I went with the 3.5"



And part of my process was replacing the front drive shaft.

Incredibly happy with 3.5" though - I debated for a long time too, and just went for it. Never looked back.
 

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Oh, and the OME shocks are phenomenal. If I did that part again I'd paint them black while they were out, not a huge fan of the yellow, but they are a great shock. Great extension, awesome control. My jeep feels amazing driving.
 

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Metal Cloak GC 2.5" owner here.

If instructions are followed correctly, you will neither rub a fender off during up travel (on either the 2.5" or 3.5" lift) nor will you rub your drive shaft during articulation.

Assuming you're purchasing a kit with adjustable control arms, you need not worry about caster (whether it be a 2.5" or 3.5" lift).

Your shocks are the limiting factor of articulation. IF you only change the spring height and not the shocks, nothing will change in in total downward articulation; Only how up travel and down travel are distributed (unless you add more/less bump stop to the springs or add articulation limiting straps).

So if you're raising your rig 1" higher at ride height, you gain 1" of up travel, but lose 1" of down travel.

The MC kits are the premium of kits. Everything has been engineered correctly to ride with no major issues. Whether you have stick fenders (or not) the kit will not run fenders on upward travel, nor rub a driveshaft during downward (assuming you're off-roading under normal conditions and not taking jumps).

*There is no issue of caster, if you're getting adjustable arms, and I'll double check tomorrow, but I believe the 2.5" lift with 35s requires 3 picks in the rear (I'll double check tomorrow).

*Also, keep in mind Metal Cloak lifts run higher than advertised. They take into accommodation that your rig will be outfitted with winch, or rack or whatever...

And as someone suggested, if you're going 3.5" you'll need their high steer kit.
 

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Metal Cloak GC 2.5" owner here.

If instructions are followed correctly, you will neither rub a fender off during up travel (on either the 2.5" or 3.5" lift) nor will you rub your drive shaft during articulation.

Assuming you're purchasing a kit with adjustable control arms, you need not worry about caster (whether it be a 2.5" or 3.5" lift).

Your shocks are the limiting factor of articulation. IF you only change the spring height and not the shocks, nothing will change in in total downward articulation; Only how up travel and down travel are distributed (unless you add more/less bump stop to the springs or add articulation limiting straps).

So if you're raising your rig 1" higher at ride height, you gain 1" of up travel, but lose 1" of down travel.

The MC kits are the premium of kits. Everything has been engineered correctly to ride with no major issues. Whether you have stick fenders (or not) the kit will not run fenders on upward travel, nor rub a driveshaft during downward (assuming you're off-roading under normal conditions and not taking jumps).

*There is no issue of caster, if you're getting adjustable arms, and I'll double check tomorrow, but I believe the 2.5" lift with 35s requires 3 picks in the rear (I'll double check tomorrow).

*Also, keep in mind Metal Cloak lifts run higher than advertised. They take into accommodation that your rig will be outfitted with winch, or rack or whatever...

And as someone suggested, if you're going 3.5" you'll need their high steer kit.
Not entirely correct. On a 4dr he MAY need a high steer (flip DL, drop pitman arm, whatever).

Some 4dr Jeeps need it at 3.5, some don't. Even when you get a bit more than advertised height.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
 

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I'm running the MC 2.5" with my JK and I netted around 3". So keep in mind that unless you are fully armored, front and rear aftermarket bumpers, etc., you will more than likely net more than the advertised lift.

Also, no rubbing with stock fenders and 35", but my 35s are on the smallish side (DuraTracs) and I'm using the recommended 3" of bump stop front and rear.
 

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What are you running as far as bump stops on the rear? I am thinking that I will be getting the game changer in the 2.5" version.
 
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