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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone. My first post to this site. Used to have a 81cj7 and 98 JK 2 door but now have a 03 TJ.

The TJ has all stock suspension and I want to do the 3.5 short arm Metalcloak ARB/OME shocks with 33x12.5x15. TJ/LJ Wrangler 3.5" Long Travel Short-Arm Suspension System, ARB Edition uses the Old Man Emu Nitrocharger Sports

Anyhow, not real crazy about the exposed heim joints on the MC track bars. In my experience Heims can make a clicking noise as the ball and race change load directions. Never had a Heim ended track bar before.
Anyone have MC or another brand with heim pivots that can weigh in on this? I see good reviews here of the MC track bars/panhard.

Anyone know what brand of Heim MC is using?

I am seriously considering deleting the MC front and rear track bars from the kit and going JKS. Some of this will be determined on Price. the JKS are expensive and I don't know yet how much of a credit I will get for deleting the MC bars from the MC kit.

I understand that the MC might have a slight edge on strength. I am going for good NVH and have no plan to take the vehicle to its limits. Just mild off road and street driving.

thanks, Alan
 

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Put your fears to rest...the MC track bar is the best out there for the money. The heim is not an issue IMHO. If you have clicking, then it is at end of life or you installed it incorrectly.
 

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MC track bar is the way to go, only time I had clicking was after install, I didn't torque it down quite enough. Almost 3 years later, not a single issue. Im running the exact same MC set up as you are
 

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Another one for the metalcloak. I have the jks front and rear track bar and they work just fine. But the metalcloak has more clearance and is cheaper. If i could do it again i would do metalcloak.
 

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X3 on the MC...better clearance, less bump stop, cheaper. If you don't like the heim, I would get a Currie before JKS.
 

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Another for MC. I've got them front and rear, and couldn't be happier with them.
 

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If you get front and rear metalcloaks and don't like them I'll trade you my front and rear jks :D
 

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I have a front JKS and the johnny joint is the limiting factor for my axle droop. The rod end would cure that on the metalcloak. I'll eventually switch.
 

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I have MC track bars front and rear, with zero issues regarding the heim joint on the front. I will say that I'm not exactly impressed with the "kit" pictured in the link, but simply because I think it's not as cost effective as assembling what you need separately. Perhaps, I'm wrong but I'll break mine down in estimated figures.

MC track bars: ~$200 MC Aluminum double adjustable arms (adjusts axle position while installed :) ) : ~$1100
Bump stop extension 6061 2" and 3" round bar stock and zinc bolts: ~$30
Bilstein 5100 shocks ~$300 (I think you can get OME for $400 or less).
Longer brake lines from Napa: $30

$1860 or less to get to this point and you need springs which are around $350 iirc from MC. Maybe it's just me but it seems like you get steel arms with a single adjustable end so they can put the other stuff that isn't worth the money in the kit, i.e. bumpstop extension and brake lines.

Edit: I see after posting that the kit has quick disconnect links, which strengthens my position based on the fact that you can buy a Currie Antirock for $400 and be right at the same price of the kit with a better set of arms, and a better performing suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have MC track bars front and rear, with zero issues regarding the heim joint on the front. I will say that I'm not exactly impressed with the "kit" pictured in the link, but simply because I think it's not as cost effective as assembling what you need separately. Perhaps, I'm wrong but I'll break mine down in estimated figures.

MC track bars: ~$200 MC Aluminum double adjustable arms (adjusts axle position while installed :) ) : ~$1100
Bump stop extension 6061 2" and 3" round bar stock and zinc bolts: ~$30
Bilstein 5100 shocks ~$300 (I think you can get OME for $400 or less).
Longer brake lines from Napa: $30

$1860 or less to get to this point and you need springs which are around $350 iirc from MC. Maybe it's just me but it seems like you get steel arms with a single adjustable end so they can put the other stuff that isn't worth the money in the kit, i.e. bumpstop extension and brake lines.

Edit: I see after posting that the kit has quick disconnect links, which strengthens my position based on the fact that you can buy a Currie Antirock for $400 and be right at the same price of the kit with a better set of arms, and a better performing suspension.
Thanks for taking the time to run the numbers.
few questions.
-What is the recommended napa brake line? YJ? what year?
-Suggested vendor for the aluminum bumpstops?
-vendor for the shocks?

Thanks, Alan
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks everyone. seems that I should at least try out the MC track bars. If I don't like them I can find someone to trade to JKS or sell on craigslist..ect.

Alan
 

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What is the recommended napa brake line? YJ? what year?
YJ 87-95


Suggested vendor for the aluminum bumpstops?
Make your own...then you can cut them to size and they will be a helluva lot cheaper (You don't need aluminum). Poly performance makes poly body lift pucks in different sizes. Get the diameter you need and order 3" lift size and then you can cut them down to your exact needed size. This allows you to get every bit out of you sspension.


vendor for the shocks?
Not sure if he is on WF but over on JF is a vendor named Kolak...great prices and fast shipping.
 

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YJ 87-95 Make your own...then you can cut them to size and they will be a helluva lot cheaper (You don't need aluminum). Poly performance makes poly body lift pucks in different sizes. Get the diameter you need and order 3" lift size and then you can cut them down to your exact needed size. This allows you to get every bit out of you sspension. Not sure if he is on WF but over on JF is a vendor named Kolak...great prices and fast shipping.
Bing bang boom.

I used aluminum for bumpstops because that's what I chose but it's absolutely not necessary, I just figured it'd last without fail and it was cheap enough for me.

I've heard of Kolak on the shocks too, but I've never priced him. I have been really impressed with pricing and service from 4low parts on here. The Antirock went up with them a tad due to higher shipping costs but it's still a great deal for the aluminum at ~$400.
 

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Bing bang boom.

I used aluminum for bumpstops because that's what I chose but it's absolutely not necessary, I just figured it'd last without fail and it was cheap enough for me.

I've heard of Kolak on the shocks too, but I've never priced him. I have been really impressed with pricing and service from 4low parts on here. The Antirock went up with them a tad due to higher shipping costs but it's still a great deal for the aluminum at ~$400.
4lowparts is awesome. Ricky will bend over backwards to make sure you get taken care of. I've bought three sets of gears and a Savvy GTS from him.
 
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