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Thanks for the replies.
A guy at work offered me a deal on a set of BFGoodrich KO2’s 285 70 17 and I have stock wheels. I’ll pass them up as I don’t really want spacers.
I’m getting my lift on in a couple weeks (on order) and plan to stay with stock sizes tires as I just wanted a little more clearance on breakover.
 

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Thanks for the replies.
A guy at work offered me a deal on a set of BFGoodrich KO2’s 285 70 17 and I have stock wheels. I’ll pass them up as I don’t really want spacers.
I’m getting my lift on in a couple weeks (on order) and plan to stay with stock sizes tires as I just wanted a little more clearance on breakover.
KO2s tend to run small, so there is a chance they would clear. If any 285 would clear it is the KO2. But it is the width that would likely cause issues and if they rub it would probably only be at full lock left or right.
I would give it a try, but that is me. I could live with a little rub at full lock.
 

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ditto a little rub on the sway bar is not a big deal. Not like you are ever going over 2mph when you are fully turned lock to lock.
 
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Got the lift installed with Metal Cloak arms. Looks good to me. Not too much air above the tires. Looks like it kept the rake too (which I like).
DD538B2B-F336-4225-A3AB-C76789768E8A.jpeg
 

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I have a 2014 2 door Rubicon X. A few years ago I bought a Mopar 2” lift kit online. It is the one with Fox shocks and a front driveshaft. Finally have the time to install it. My question concerns how much lift to expect front and rear. Don’t hate me, but I like the rake of my Jeep and I don’t want to possibly “level” it by installing this kit. I searched through this thread and some say it maintains the rake, others say you get like 3“ front and 1” rear. Not sure why people seem to get different results. Is there any consensus? I want to avoid going through the work of installing this kit and then being unhappy. I was also thinking about possibly installing 1” spacers along with the new rear springs. Anyhow, I’d be a lot more motivated to install this kit if I were more certain of my results... Thanks!
 

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I have a 2014 2 door Rubicon X. A few years ago I bought a Mopar 2” lift kit online. It is the one with Fox shocks and a front driveshaft. Finally have the time to install it. My question concerns how much lift to expect front and rear. Don’t hate me, but I like the rake of my Jeep and I don’t want to possibly “level” it by installing this kit. I searched through this thread and some say it maintains the rake, others say you get like 3“ front and 1” rear. Not sure why people seem to get different results. Is there any consensus? I want to avoid going through the work of installing this kit and then being unhappy. I was also thinking about possibly installing 1” spacers along with the new rear springs. Anyhow, I’d be a lot more motivated to install this kit if I were more certain of my results... Thanks!
I got about 3" of lift up front and 2" of lift in back with the Mopar 2" lift springs, which pretty much leveled our JKU. That was on a four door, using the four door 2" Mopar springs. As I recall, only two of the four springs are the same between two door and four door.
I suspect people get different results because people start with different springs to begin with. If you have shorter springs from the factory (typically there are 4 different length springs that a JK / JKU might have from the factory) you can expect more lift from these springs, while a heavier Jeep that came with taller springs from the factory could expect less lift.
Also, there seems to be different results between the two door and four door sets of these springs.
If you don't want this lift to level your Jeep you may want to consider installing some spring spacers with the lift. Either take a guess based on others experiences (focus on two door experiences if you have a two door). Or install the lift, see where you are, and add spacers as required.
 

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As you see in my pictures my rack seems to have stayed. And that is with the crate full of arms, shocks, and driveshaft in the back. I unloaded all that today so I will take measurements tomorrow. With the crate of parts in the back my front went up about 3 inches and the rear went up a little about 1 3/4 inches.
I have a JKURHR with the stock steel bumpers.
I also had Metal Cloak control arms installed.
 

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I have a 2014 2 door Rubicon X. A few years ago I bought a Mopar 2” lift kit online. It is the one with Fox shocks and a front driveshaft. Finally have the time to install it. My question concerns how much lift to expect front and rear. Don’t hate me, but I like the rake of my Jeep and I don’t want to possibly “level” it by installing this kit. I searched through this thread and some say it maintains the rake, others say you get like 3“ front and 1” rear. Not sure why people seem to get different results. Is there any consensus? I want to avoid going through the work of installing this kit and then being unhappy. I was also thinking about possibly installing 1” spacers along with the new rear springs. Anyhow, I’d be a lot more motivated to install this kit if I were more certain of my results... Thanks!

The 2 and 4 door kits use the same front springs and different rear springs. Rear spring length is the same but the 4dr springs are thicker (by 1/16, I believe. I posted the actual measurements previously). I have a '17 2dr sport and I saw 4" lift front and 3" rear before adding metal bumpers or winch. Adding bumpers had minimal impact, 1/8 - 1/4". The reason for so much lift on the 2 dr is that the springs are rated at 2" for a 4dr, and 2dr's net an additional inch. For example, Metalcloak's 2.5" 4dr springs are sold as 3.5" 2dr springs.

If you want to maintain rake, you may consider installing the lift as-is, let it settle, and then measure to determine spacer size for the rear. Since the rear is easier to do than the front, it's not too bad to go back and add rear spacers later. Plus, you may decide to add front end weight like a bumper or winch which would change the spacer size needed.

Mine with 35's

4486605
 

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So it looks like mine got pretty much the same as others have stated. ~3” in the front and ~2” in the back.
I was wondering if the JKURHR being a heavy build would still net those numbers. Even with a full tank of fuel it still held.
 

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Thanks guys! That confirms what I was seeing in earlier posts. About an inch less lift in back as compared to front. I think I will go ahead and install 1” spacers in the rear...
 

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I put the Mopar 2” lift on a few years ago with 35” BFG KM3sand it had been great with two exceptions, bumpstops and sagging under a load.I found I was on the bumpstops a lot, any reasonable pothole was a jolting bang especially on the front end. When I would load to go camping the lift disappeared and I was on bumpstops front and rear. The only time I had the full stance of the lift was in the summer with the doors and top off. I have a full width steel bumper with a warm 8274 in the front, a 35” spare and 10 gallons of gas in the rear that contribute to the sagging.
My solution was to install Metacloak 2.5” springs, which recovered about an Inch of lift and put the stance back to where it should be. I also installed the Timbren off road bumpstops in the front which greatly soften the blow of the unexpected hole. I have not loaded it with weight yet to see how the new springs handle it, but I expect it to be much better. Overall it rides much nicer.
The bottom pic is with Mopar 2” lift springs, the top is with 2.5” Metacloak springs. Measurements are at the front right fender.
 

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Mattja99. Not sure if its the angle of the picture. But it looks liek the rear axle shifted quite some with just a 2.5" lift. Do yo unotice a siginificant change in driving?
 

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I put the Mopar 2” lift on a few years ago with 35” BFG KM3sand it had been great with two exceptions, bumpstops and sagging under a load.I found I was on the bumpstops a lot, any reasonable pothole was a jolting bang especially on the front end. When I would load to go camping the lift disappeared and I was on bumpstops front and rear. The only time I had the full stance of the lift was in the summer with the doors and top off. I have a full width steel bumper with a warm 8274 in the front, a 35” spare and 10 gallons of gas in the rear that contribute to the sagging.
My solution was to install Metacloak 2.5” springs, which recovered about an Inch of lift and put the stance back to where it should be. I also installed the Timbren off road bumpstops in the front which greatly soften the blow of the unexpected hole. I have not loaded it with weight yet to see how the new springs handle it, but I expect it to be much better. Overall it rides much nicer.
The bottom pic is with Mopar 2” lift springs, the top is with 2.5” Metacloak springs. Measurements are at the front right fender.

Mattja99. Not sure if its the angle of the picture. But it looks like the rear axle shifted quite some with just a 2.5" lift. Do yo notice a siginificant change in driving?
 

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Mattja99. Not sure if its the angle of the picture. But it looks like the rear axle shifted quite some with just a 2.5" lift. Do yo notice a siginificant change in driving?
The axle did shift forward with the 2” lift but I didn’t notice any change in the way it drives. No change with the new springs either.
 

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Thanks guys! That confirms what I was seeing in earlier posts. About an inch less lift in back as compared to front. I think I will go ahead and install 1” spacers in the rear...
Post a pic when your done and note the spacer used. I also like the rake for some reason and am interested in seeing how it turns out.
 

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The new drive shaft is more about being smaller in diameter to better clear the exhaust crossover and using a double cardan joint on the one end with a standard U joint on the other vs the stocker with the rezeppa joints that don't allow as much angle. It also eliminates the rubber boot that covers the slip fit aspect of the stock drive shaft. That is what allows the shaft to get longer or shorter as the suspension travels. The new front shaft uses a different set up for that in a different part of the shaft and no rubber gator to melt when it touches the exhaust.
The rear stock drive shaft is much longer than the front drive shaft, so it is less affected by lifting. Either way, adding 2" of droop to the suspension isn't likely to cause an issue with the drive shafts except for possible clearance issues with the front shaft and exhaust crossover.
If you use shock extensions with the Fox shocks included with the lift you would need to flex the suspension without springs to make sure the shocks did not bottom before the bump stops halted suspension up travel. I would be surprised if you could add 2" extensions to the shocks and not have to add additional bump stop extensions. If you want to try, I would definitely cycle the suspension to make sure the shocks don't become what stops suspension up travel.
While I like the MetalCloak Rocksport shocks (they are much the same as the OME yellow shocks) I did not like a shock that soft with the fairly soft Mopar 2" springs. Soft shocks and soft springs don't work that well in my experience.
question this is a good post here.

I have the 2.5 Mc springs and have the 2.0 mopars in the mail. I already installed the exhaust spacer with the 2.5 Mc springs and the 2 inch tf budget boost gear which has I think 2.5 bump in front and back.

questions
do I need anything else just installing the 2.0 mopars other then alignment.
i still might need some more bumpstop even going from 2.5 to 2.0 because I donot think I had enough being a lightweight beach Jeep. I guess the Mc adjustable bumpstop that goes up to 4 inchs

things like brake lines should be better since going lower.

I have 2.1 falcons that are 2.5-3.5 length and Mc springs 2.5/2.5 with 1.0 front spacer for level balance so a 3.5/2.5 going to a 3/2 with the mopars. That’s ob not actual height/I’m lightweight.

other questions
going to try front only adjustable falcons the 0-2 inch length so it’s better figment.

I guess i get same or little less once settle then the 2.5 Mc for actual height so that should be better for measure figments other then still needing more bumpstop.

thought about hydro bump but not yet money wise/same for front shocks just doing a 175 mopar springs this summer and get things surface rust/painted areas.

should I do primer and paint or just black frame paint on everything after sand to metal.

is there anything else I am forgetting or should do. I can fine tune stuff again when I get the front adjustables and maybe a new track bar/the one I got it looks shady.
 

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Pressurized already said I am good with the falcons length for these mopar springs and the Mc springs I have now.
 

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question this is a good post here.

questions
do I need anything else just installing the 2.0 mopars other then alignment.
i still might need some more bumpstop even going from 2.5 to 2.0 because I donot think I had enough being a lightweight beach Jeep. I guess the Mc adjustable bumpstop that goes up to 4 inchs

things like brake lines should be better since going lower.

I have 2.1 falcons that are 2.5-3.5 length and Mc springs 2.5/2.5 with 1.0 front spacer for level balance so a 3.5/2.5 going to a 3/2 with the mopars. That’s ob not actual height/I’m lightweight.

other questions
going to try front only adjustable falcons the 0-2 inch length so it’s better figment.

I guess i get same or little less once settle then the 2.5 Mc for actual height so that should be better for measure figments other then still needing more bumpstop.

thought about hydro bump but not yet money wise/same for front shocks just doing a 175 mopar springs this summer and get things surface rust/painted areas.

should I do primer and paint or just black frame paint on everything after sand to metal.

is there anything else I am forgetting or should do. I can fine tune stuff again when I get the front adjustables and maybe a new track bar/the one I got it looks shady.

Hmmm... I found the Mopar 2" to be taller than that on my install... more like 3"+. So depending on the advertised height of your MC vs. what they actually are... the Mopar might not be much different.

Alignment on Wranglers is usually a waste of money. Nothing is adjustable on the back that can be checked on a rack. The front you can adjust camber if you have adjustable arms... but if you have brackets you just pick the holes for your lift. You can easily centre the steering yourself, and adjusting the toe is not usually needed as that geometry doesn't change with a lift.
 
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