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Discussion Starter #1
Well, we finally got the jeep running with the last carb rebuild. Ran good for a week, eventually got to hard starting, so we installed the new rebuilt carb we got on ebay we had on the shelf and it started fine, idled around 550 which was unheard of, but we started to get a hesitation at 30mph. The inlet was loose so we tightened it so I thought we lowered the float level, and not wanting to take the carb apart, I put a second gasket on the inlet to raise the float level and the hesitation went away. Drove the 4 miles home in hot rush hour, no sputter, hesitation or anything. Next day, started, went about a mile and died. Eventually started, rpms were down to next to nothing, drove ok, died at every stop light. Biggest thing we see is fuel leaking thru the throttle shaft. There should not be fuel there. We put the old carb back together and its also leaking thru the throttle shaft. I am kinda thinking we have a new problem, maybe a cracked head or bent intake valve pushing the charge back up to the carburetor, so we will do a compression check today to see how they hold.

How it goes from driving in this intense chicago heat, it was high 90's with 100+ heat index in rush hour to crap overnight is mindboggling.

So just wondering if anyone had this deal and give us another place to look.
 

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The idle on those carbs should be 700-800 hot in park/neutral. If the idle is too low there's a greater chance to stall.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
when I have had one leaking through the throttle shaft it has always been carb wear
What I did was take the bottom off our carb and put it on the new carb, and the old one that never leaked, started to leak. I took the "new" throttle shaft apart, it looked burnt and worn and gravely pitted where it goes thru to the spring. Its just telling me there is a profuse amount of fuel working its way thru the carburetor and getting out wherever it can, but the floats are good now. Its like the fuel is never stopping. Time to put the old carb back on and get back to square 1.

We were setting the idle in gear to the recommended 600-630. For us it runs around 800 in park.

Other thing, timing was at 12 with the advance hooked up it jumps to 20. I am old school so I know you are supposed to plug the vacuum advance when you time a car, but its crap if its done that way. Right now, I can rotate the distributor about 30 degrees and it makes no difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
tore both apart, noticed float in "new" carb was 27.1 grams, the old carb was 15.6 grams. Shook the new one and heard sloshing around. Got a feeling it stopped floating and never closed the needle valve.
 

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have you done anthing to the ignition? Nutter bypass, new distributor?

I got a new throttle shaft for my carb from CarbJunky's.com I was happy with their service.

Are the floats original?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
its a new distributor, we kept the BBD carb and all the vacuum hoses because we will need to pass emissions. It was definitely a flooding issue with the float. Go figure, the old float from the carb I rebuilt was good and the new float is bad. So far so good. First the float was too low and stalled at 30, adjusted it and it ran great, I guess the hole must have been closer to the top where the low level did not effect it and after a few days sucked in enough fuel to lose all the float.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok so is everything fixed?
Or did you still need help?
It ran good yesterday, got it retimed and ran it home. when we were setting mixture it was able to keep running way down to about 500 rpms so we should be ok. We knew something happened with the float since it was bogging at 30, I guess when we raised the level in the bowl, it found the pinhole in the float somehow and started filling it overnight until it ran like crap that morning.

Just mentioning with all the carter problems out there, dont know how many people look at the float and fuel level side of it.
 
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