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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 15' JKU Sahara with 16/58 springs and the TF leveling kit (2"fr/1"rr). I will be throwing on 315/70/17 Duratracs (34.4") on there

My understanding is that if I go from 16/58 springs to 19/60, I should gain another .5". Seeing that I am already at 2" higher in the front with the leveling kit, is it even worth it going with the 2.5" TF budget boost if I just go with 19 springs?

I assume that I can effectively get a 2.5" lift (at least for the front) by getting 19/60 springs with my TF leveling kit.

Any foreseen issues?

Here is my current setup (before/after TF leveling kit)
 

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Not sure 19/60. I would look for a set of10th anniversary Rubicon springs. 006/009. Matched with the level kit you have I got 2 3/4" of lift. Rides great and no trbl off road.
 

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i have a sahara jku with 17/58 springs and a 1.75" BB and run the 315 duratracs with no problems.....did trim the air dam a hair though
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i have a sahara jku with 17/58 springs and a 1.75" BB and run the 315 duratracs with no problems.....did trim the air dam a hair though
Do you have a picture? Would love to see that. And how is it driving with 315 and 3.73 gears? Whats your highway MPG? Thanks!!
 

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If you manage to get up to 3" in front, that is no different than any other 2.5 lift kit and you are now at a spot where your shocks are too short and can top out and become damaged and if you replace the shocks, you need bump stops... Which you'll need for the 315's anyway or they'll be in the fenders when you do anything off road.

And you have crossed in to the territory of possible low caster which can make the Jeep wander at highway speeds and just not all that fun to drive.

Proper length shocks means added droop which means exhaust spacers and brake line brackets.

It doesn't matter how you get the lift, it's still lift and subject to the parts needed in any typical lift at that height to do it right...
 

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Do you have a picture? Would love to see that. And how is it driving with 315 and 3.73 gears? Whats your highway MPG? Thanks!!
ill figure out how to get a pic up and post it......i think it feels like it has plenty of power, but im in flat indianapolis that is low altitude.....i still get 17-18 mpg with a mix of city/highway. The only way i would regear is if i decide to get lockers. I also have corsa exhaust and AFE CAI which add about 20 rwhp which i know is debated, but ive seen independent dynos. Ill get some pics now and post:iamhappy:
 

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If you manage to get up to 3" in front, that is no different than any other 2.5 lift kit and you are now at a spot where your shocks are too short and can top out and become damaged and if you replace the shocks, you need bump stops... Which you'll need for the 315's anyway or they'll be in the fenders when you do anything off road.

And you have crossed in to the territory of possible low caster which can make the Jeep wander at highway speeds and just not all that fun to drive.

Proper length shocks means added droop which means exhaust spacers and brake line brackets.

It doesn't matter how you get the lift, it's still lift and subject to the parts needed in any typical lift at that height to do it right...
i have the bilstein 5100s (2-4 "lift) and a daystar 1.75" BB....are you saying when i go off road and disconnect i need bump stops,brake line extensions, and exhaust spacers?
 

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did you have to extend the sway bar links? Front or rears?
no...i just had 4wp install corsa single out catback,afe cai, bilstein 5100, fox ats, 1.75" daystar BB, 17" pro comp alloy, and 315 duratracs all at the same time when it had 1000 miles on it....they just trimmed the air dam a little and it drives and rides great on rode.....havent been hardcore off road yet, but they(4wp) told me to come back when i decide to disconnect and get wild. I was hoping just some flat fenders would be all i need....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
no...i just had 4wp install corsa single out catback,afe cai, bilstein 5100, fox ats, 1.75" daystar BB, 17" pro comp alloy, and 315 duratracs all at the same time when it had 1000 miles on it....they just trimmed the air dam a little and it drives and rides great on rode.....havent been hardcore off road yet, but they(4wp) told me to come back when i decide to disconnect and get wild. I was hoping just some flat fenders would be all i need....
Thanks for your post! It looks great with your setup. I avg about 17.7mpg right now with the stock rubicon tires (KM M/T) so im glad to hear that yours is about similar. Im also guessing you have stock tire carrier too? I will try to get my hands on some 19/60 springs since they should be pretty cheap and would just put me in line with a stock rubicon height.
 

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ive been on the stock carrier with extension for 4000 miles now and no damage yet.....i check the welds, hinges, and be real careful when having the tailgate open not to slam..... i really need to extend my bump stops because there not even touching. Honestly, i think im just paranoid...the stock rubi tire is only 12 lbs lighter than the duratrac and there has to be some over engineering involved when it can kill someone bouncing down the highway.....I also think my procomp alloy is lighter than the stock rubi wheel...
 

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i have the bilstein 5100s (2-4 "lift) and a daystar 1.75" BB....are you saying when i go off road and disconnect i need bump stops,brake line extensions, and exhaust spacers?
Yes, those shocks allow enough droop in a '12 or newer that you should have both exhaust spacers and rear brake line brackets. Also, you need bump stops to keep the shocks from bottoming out and getting damaged. What size tires do you have? Bump stops are set by both shocks and tires.
 

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Yes, those shocks allow enough droop in a '12 or newer that you should have both exhaust spacers and rear brake line brackets. Also, you need bump stops to keep the shocks from bottoming out and getting damaged. What size tires do you have? Bump stops are set by both shocks and tires.
i have 315/70 r17 duratracs....am i at risk of damage if i stay on pavement?

thank you for your help
 

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i have 315/70 r17 duratracs....am i at risk of damage if i stay on pavement?

thank you for your help
No, its only at full articulation. And probably only if you are disconnected in front. Although the rear tires will likely hit the fenders without bump stops at full articulation and the brake lines will be short without the brackets.

Fortunately, all inexpensive parts and easy enough to do yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ive been on the stock carrier with extension for 4000 miles now and no damage yet.....i check the welds, hinges, and be real careful when having the tailgate open not to slam..... i really need to extend my bump stops because there not even touching. Honestly, i think im just paranoid...the stock rubi tire is only 12 lbs lighter than the duratrac and there has to be some over engineering involved when it can kill someone bouncing down the highway.....I also think my procomp alloy is lighter than the stock rubi wheel...
I have been thinking exactly that with the Duratracs on stock carrier. If you think about it, if you get a bike rack that attaches to the spare, thats easily an extra 15-20lbs and I dont think anyone things twice about doing that. Yet people come on here and get afraid about the 315 weight. If I was going with anything other than Duratracs then I would def upgrade the tire carrier.
 

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I have been thinking exactly that with the Duratracs on stock carrier. If you think about it, if you get a bike rack that attaches to the spare, thats easily an extra 15-20lbs and I dont think anyone things twice about doing that. Yet people come on here and get afraid about the 315 weight. If I was going with anything other than Duratracs then I would def upgrade the tire carrier.
thats the reason i went with them...good all weather tire,light(no tire carrier or regear),smooth,aggressive looking.....what else could you ask for in a DD tire
 

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Going from a 58 to a 60 in the rear will not make much difference on a JKU or a JK(56or57 normally) for that matter. Not a big difference in spring rates.
The 19/60 spring upgrade is really only effective for 1.75" front and 1.25" on a Sport JK that has 13/56 springs to begin with. The JKU is 400lbs heavier and already comes with a heavy rear spring.
You would be better to get a 2.5" spring lift with shocks. Pull the Boost if it is not compatible to add to the spring lift.
Best not to cut corners on the heavier JKU.
You see more people try to build in increments, to eventually see them pull it all out and replace it with what they should have installed to begin with.
Fun, but expensive to do it that way.
 
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