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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1. Is there such a thing as metric grade 10.9 stainless hardware? If so, why does no one use it for the rear, upper shock bolts?

2. If I need to drill out my rear, upper shock bolts what sort of bits do I need to purchase?

3. If I need to drill them out, how large should I go before trying to run the tap up in there to re-chase the threads? I know how thick or thin I can go with brass, but I do not know about steel. I am worried about breaking the tap.

4. If I decide I have to break off the welded nuts, can I use my air hammer with a chisel? I have a short barrel Kobalt air hammer that I have not yet used, and am afraid that my compressor will not run it, and if it does that the short barrel of the hammer will not hit hard enough to break the nuts free.

5. I have heard of using a punch and a BFH. Better idea than the air hammer?

6. My stock bolts (M8x1.25) are really weak, like a 2. Should I just toss them?

7. My local Ace has grade 10.9 M8x1.25 flange bolts, but they are silver and not black. I have no idea what the various finishes mean. I did not note whether these silver ones were zinc plated or galvanized or whatever. Just that they were not black like the stock ones.

What should I be getting? I know M8x1.25, but what length? I cannot get *any* of the stock upper rears out to compare. I can see them the tops from the side with the fender well liners pulled. But I cannot judge the length. Are they identical to the lower fronts? (My lower fronts are also M8x1.25, but I am not sure that this is what needs to be in there. The PO did such a crappy job on this lift that he could have just swapped in whatever he had around.)
 

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1. I'm not sure about Class 10.9 level metric stainless bolts, but I know there are sources for Grade 8 level stainless bolts. Last I checked, they run around $10-15 a bolt. High strength stainless is very expensive, and you still have to worry about the galling issues common with stainless.

2. Good Black Oxide, TiN steel, or Cobalt steel will work.

3. You won't be able to fit a tap & tap handle in there. Don't even bother. Just drill it out and use a nut and bolt.

4. Leave them in place if possible. Just drill them out, and use a washer & bolt on top.

5. Yes you can hammer them off if the welds suck.

6. Stock bolts are Class 9.8, strength is in between Grade 5 and Grade 8. Use Class 10.9 or Class 8.8, or Grade 5 or Grade 8 as replacements.

7. They are zinc plated, not black oxide coated. Zinc adds some corrosion resistance.

As for the length, use a tape measure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
THANKS!

Regarding the length, there is no way to measure them and I will be breaking them off and drilling them out. I can measure the captured nut thickness since I have access to them from the fender well. But I do not know the stock length. If I know that I can simply add the thickness of the captured nut and a lock washer to the total to see what I need to get if I drill them out as you suggest.

Again, thanks for taking time to answer me completely. Excellent post!
 
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