Most popular lift/shock setup on WF

516999 Views 2870 Replies 414 Participants Last post by Smig, 11 mo ago

kjeeper10

Discussion Starter · Mar 7, 2015 (Edited)

This is just one setup. I recommend it all the time and many run it. I figure making a thread to link to instead of typing will save a lot of time.

Lift kit

Teraflex 2.5" coil lift without shocks or extensions why in bold ? Because without shocks or extensions, the rear frame side TB bracket is replaced with the better axle side bracket.
TeraFlex - JK 2-Door 2.5” Lift Kit

TeraFlex - JKU 4-Door 2.5” Lift Kit
Every thing is here to get you started ie. Swaybar links, bump stops, brake line brackets, etc

Shocks

Wait for it .........Rancho RS9000xl adjustable shocks. For the price can't be beat :thumb: Rancho RS999329 RS9000XL Series Front Shock Absorber for 07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK & Wrangler Unlimited JK with 3-3.5" Lift
Rancho RS999330 RS9000XL Series Rear Shock Absorbers for 07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK & Wrangler Unlimited JK with 3-3.5" Lift
Yes I know .. It says "4" of lift"
No worries .. The 29xl/30xl have a compressed length about 1" over stock (Rubi shocks)
You will have more than enough bumpstop to run these shocks. These shocks are just about perfect with a 2.5" lift

Edit 3/22/15 Rancho 5000x
I am adding Rancho 5000x shocks as a option. Cheap and the ride really well.
Rancho RS55329
Rancho RS55330

Caster correction
Any lift over 2" should have caster angle corrected. Low caster can create a flighty feel to the steering at speed.
Rancho New Geo brackets
https://www.amazon.com/Rancho-RS62103-Geometry-Correction-Bracket/dp/B01IDHBIWK
-or-
Front lower control arms fixed or adjustable(choose brand)

2012+ only
If you're off roading with the swaybar disconnected. There's a good chance the front driveshaft might contact the exhaust crossover. Exhaust spacers move the crossover piping back adding clearance.
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16191_9203.htm

Extras
Recommended but not overly important.

Front Track bar (choose brand)
The rear is close to center with the bracket. A adjustable track bar will center up the front axle.

9/16 bolt kit
Why not ad some death wobble insurance. Heck .. All bolts should be loosened during install of the lift. A few extra minutes to swap in new bolts ... Why not

http://www.northridge4x4.com/northridge-4x4-jeep-jk-grade-8-hardware-kit

cool new option available
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/teraflex-sport-8-flex-arm-kit-1104666.html

There you have it. Post up if you have or ordered this combo. Share any Likes/dislikes/other parts added.

POPULAR JK 2.5" ENTRY LEVEL LIFT BY KEN (WranglerForum.com Lift)

Looking for a great entry level lift for your JK? This kit offers a great on road and off road ride. The base of this system uses the TeraFlex 2.5" lift system with linear rate coils. Add in Rancho front correction brackets, and Rancho 9000XL shocks and you have a pretty solid setup! Plus it is...

www.krawloff-road.com

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HunterTheBeagle

· #20 · Mar 9, 2015

I'm running this set up only with fox shocks, I have nothing but good things to say about this lift kit and about teraflex in general, they are a great company to deal with and stand behind their products.

Few things I've added beyond the regular kit, front and rear TF monster trac bars (centered my axles perfectly and tightened things up). 1" rear spacers I was a little nose high and prefer a slight rake teraflex sent these to me. Front lower adjustable control arms (went with rock krawler but only because I got a good deal on them). Exhaust spacer, bolt kit, brake lines (tho not really needed).

I did a lot of research to figure out what lift was going to be the best bang for my buck with a good reputation and a durable product, all roads led me back to the 2.5 teraflex lift and I have been very pleased with the way my jeep handles and performes both on road and especially off road.

One last thing to mention that I feel is important but goes overlooked is that teraflex instructions are the best I have used. I have installed a number of parts from different companies and imho the teraflex instructions are hands down the easiest to follow, and most informative of any company I have used. They actually include torque specs for things. I have had to dig out and reference the tf torque specs when installing other companies parts. For a novice mechanic like myself good instructions are very much appreciated.

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HunterTheBeagle

· #54 · Mar 25, 2015

^^^ teraflex new fixed arms would be sweet with the 2.5" lift.

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HunterTheBeagle

· #81 · Apr 1, 2015

Those blue coils are pretty sweet!

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HunterTheBeagle

· #100 · Apr 6, 2015

I saw this yesterday, I love how he even added to option to upgrade and add disconnects, front trackbar, and exhaust spacer, truly is a one stop shop for this awesome setup!

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HunterTheBeagle

· #116 · Apr 8, 2015

^^^ Oh boy this is great!!

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HunterTheBeagle

· #156 · Apr 17, 2015

^^ yep I installed 1" spacers in the rear after installing my lift. Mine was nose high once it was all together and I actually prefer a slight rake, called teraflex and they were great to deal with. Nothing wrong with added some spacers in the rear.

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HunterTheBeagle

· #370 · Jun 10, 2015

MRT2 said:
Kjeeper10, you referenced any lift over 2" should have Geometry Correction Brackets... Does this include budget boosts that is supposed to keep the same geometry? (Bare with me here, suspension is the next thing I'm diving into).

Anytime you lift it will effect your suspension geometry, the real question is will it effect the geometry enough that the handling and other components of the vehicle are adversely affected?

What Ken was referencing is that raising a JK 2" and under is (generally) not enough geometry change to need caster correction.

Budget boosts give the exact height that they are designed for (leveling kits are usually 2" in front and 1" in rear, or 2.5" are usually 2.5 all around). Spring typically give a little more lift to compensate for aftermarket parts and as you likely know the higher the lift the further the geometry will be off after the lift.

Because the BB give a lower boost in height you will likely not need geometry correction (brackets or arms) unless you get 3" pucks or something silly like that. My suggestion would be to install it first and see how it rides, brackets are easy to throw on if it feels flighty (which I doubt it will). I ran my Teraflex 2.5" spring lift for a year and a half with no caster correction and it was plenty drive able, I would have left it but I like to tinker and came across some RK lowers for cheap.

Hope this helps.

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HunterTheBeagle

· #373 · Jun 11, 2015

MRT2 said:
Thanks!

I already have the TF 2.5" BB. And with the stock Rubi Tires the "flight" feeling wasn't so noticeable. Now that i have just installed some DT 35s - i find the ride a tad bit more 'flighty' with a bit more of a rolling bounce (versus stock).

I'm curious if the Geo Brackets would correct this. (And I'm also weary of purchasing something which may be already included in a future upgrade).

That could just be the wider tires your feeling. Wide tires tend to catch grooves in the road and pull the vehicle around a lot more, just the nature of the beast. What PSI are you running in them?

I havent heard of too many folks running control arms or brackets with the 2.5" budget boost. But that's not to say you couldn't (or that some dont), we will have to wait to see what some of these other guys (who know more than me) think but if you really wanted to try something I would think something like the teraflex sport arms maybe better than say rancho brackets for the height your at. The rancho's may give you a little too much bump in caster.

If I were you tho I would probably drop a few PSI in the tires and see if that helps with the feel some.

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HunterTheBeagle

· #375 · Jun 12, 2015

Forbin said:
I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on this kit from Allen, but I've got a newbie question on this wheel/tire thing... My budget won't allow me to do both the lift AND new wheels right now. I'm currently running 265/70/17s on stock rims.

Also should note that I'll be having a shop do the install--so what do I need to tell them regarding the rear links? When I do get new wheels, will I have to change the rear links? If I do have to replace the tires before I can upgrade the wheels, what size limits would I have?

Sorry for the dumb newbie questions...figured I should ask before I throw money down.

You would just tell them to flip the rear swaybar links and run them inboard. If its a reputable shop they will know what your talking about and know what to do. The other option would be to order a set of wheel spacers. This is the option that teraflex suggests. If you go with wheel spacers then their is no need to worry about the rear links just install as intended and good to go.

If you stick with the stock wheels without spacers I would think 255/80/17 or maybe a 34/10.5/17 would be about the biggest tire you could run, its not so much the height as it is the width. With a set of 1.5" wheel spacers you could run a 12.5" wide tire.

My suggestion save a little more, get a set of spidertrax wheel spacers and that will answer all of your questions. But to each their own.

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HunterTheBeagle

· #557 · Sep 9, 2015

costguy said:
Did anyone move the rear shock mount up using this kit. I assume it's going to work but thought I would double check before cutting off the lower mount.

http://www.metalcloak.com/Shock-Mount-Relocation-Clearance-JK-Lower-Rear-p/7025.htm

Would I also run skids with this setup or will raising it up do the trick. We do play in the rocks. Current mounts are really ground down

http://jeep.rebeloffroad.com/Jeep-Lower-Control-Arm-Skid-p/roe-grinder.htm

^ here is another option that avoids the headache of shorter shocks. Just throwing it out there.

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HunterTheBeagle

· #563 · Sep 10, 2015

KrawlOff-Road.com said:
Tell here you are just making it better! LOL most of the better lifts out there will also make the JK ride and handle better on road. Yes it is a learning curve for sure but the are much easier to work on when the bolts are not all rusted on!

-Jason

^^ This is very true, the longer I own my Jeep the more anti-seize I use once I bolts off, rust is a

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