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Most popular lift/shock setup on WF

516990 Views 2870 Replies 414 Participants Last post by  Smig
This is just one setup. I recommend it all the time and many run it. I figure making a thread to link to instead of typing will save a lot of time.

Lift kit

Teraflex 2.5" coil lift without shocks or extensions why in bold ? Because without shocks or extensions, the rear frame side TB bracket is replaced with the better axle side bracket.
TeraFlex - JK 2-Door 2.5” Lift Kit

TeraFlex - JKU 4-Door 2.5” Lift Kit
Every thing is here to get you started ie. Swaybar links, bump stops, brake line brackets, etc

Shocks

Wait for it .........Rancho RS9000xl adjustable shocks. For the price can't be beat :thumb: Rancho RS999329 RS9000XL Series Front Shock Absorber for 07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK & Wrangler Unlimited JK with 3-3.5" Lift
Rancho RS999330 RS9000XL Series Rear Shock Absorbers for 07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK & Wrangler Unlimited JK with 3-3.5" Lift
Yes I know .. It says "4" of lift"
No worries .. The 29xl/30xl have a compressed length about 1" over stock (Rubi shocks)
You will have more than enough bumpstop to run these shocks. These shocks are just about perfect with a 2.5" lift

Edit 3/22/15 Rancho 5000x
I am adding Rancho 5000x shocks as a option. Cheap and the ride really well.
Rancho RS55329
Rancho RS55330

Caster correction
Any lift over 2" should have caster angle corrected. Low caster can create a flighty feel to the steering at speed.
Rancho New Geo brackets
https://www.amazon.com/Rancho-RS62103-Geometry-Correction-Bracket/dp/B01IDHBIWK
-or-
Front lower control arms fixed or adjustable(choose brand)

2012+ only
If you're off roading with the swaybar disconnected. There's a good chance the front driveshaft might contact the exhaust crossover. Exhaust spacers move the crossover piping back adding clearance.
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16191_9203.htm

Extras
Recommended but not overly important.

Front Track bar (choose brand)
The rear is close to center with the bracket. A adjustable track bar will center up the front axle.

9/16 bolt kit
Why not ad some death wobble insurance. Heck .. All bolts should be loosened during install of the lift. A few extra minutes to swap in new bolts ... Why not :D
http://www.northridge4x4.com/northridge-4x4-jeep-jk-grade-8-hardware-kit

cool new option available
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/teraflex-sport-8-flex-arm-kit-1104666.html

There you have it. Post up if you have or ordered this combo. Share any Likes/dislikes/other parts added.

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First of all I would like to say I'm loving the forum, I have owned a jeep of some kind since 1978 when I bought my new 79 CJ5, kept it until 1982 when I fell in love with the CJ-8 Scrambler which I bought with 6 miles on the odometer and which I still own (will most likely be buried in it) other Jeeps have come and gone, so I am not new to Jeep ownership but two weeks ago I purchased a 2015 JK rubicon unlimited Hard rock edition. Needless to say the suspension on the Rubicon is a total different critter than my CJ, so I have been trying to wade through all the different options and it is a bit over whelming, but I have settled on a lift of 2.5" since all I want to run is 35s on tire size. The Jeep will be more of a family off-roader seeing mild to moderate trails (I will save the hard core trails for the Scrambler). I am trying to take advantage of the forum's members experience (something I didn't have back when I bought my other Jeeps, since there was no internet, yes I come from a time of no computers,no internet and only three TV stations if you were lucky, any I had a few questions about the recommended setup. 1. When you say lower control arms (choose) do you mean adjustable control arms? 2. You suggest an adjustable front track bar, would it be advantageous to also purchase an adjustable rear track bar? 3. This is not related to the suspension but thought you could offer some insight. My Jeep came with the Rubicon 10th anniversary wheels which are very nice looking but are only 7.5" in width, would a 35X12.50 tire work on this wheel, I realize that I would have to use wheel spacers. Thank you for your help.
Welcome to the forum :)

Choose meaning a brand. You could run a adjustable or a fixed length lower for caster angle.
In bold I mentioned the rear axle side track bar Bracket. Besides roll center correction the axle is centered under the jeep. So no, you do not need a adjustable rear track bar.
A 12.5 will work but you might have issues having it mounted. Tire manufactures usually have a min wheel width and shops won't mount for liability reasons.
<snip> I had a few questions about the recommended setup.

1. When you say lower control arms (choose) do you mean adjustable control arms? Can be fixed or adjustable. Fixed should be slightly longer than stock and Teraflex and Synergy have great options for fixed at that lift height.

2. You suggest an adjustable front track bar, would it be advantageous to also purchase an adjustable rear track bar? Not needed, the bracket typically takes in to account amount of lift and comes close to centering the axle on it's own. That said, an adjustable rear track bar can be used for fine tuning if you wanted to.

3. This is not related to the suspension but thought you could offer some insight. My Jeep came with the Rubicon 10th anniversary wheels which are very nice looking but are only 7.5" in width, would a 35X12.50 tire work on this wheel, I realize that I would have to use wheel spacers. The manufacturer specs for a 12.5 wide tire say that they should be mounted on a wheel from 8.5 to 11.0 inches.

Taken from Nitto website:

35x12.50R17LT E 121Q206900 19.334.7612.528.5-(10.0)-11.03195@65
However, many people do it and as kjeeper10 mentions, some shops will not install that size tire on that size wheel.

Thank you for your help.
I posted my comments in BLUE above. You are doing the research, I am confident you will build a great Jeep!
I have a question about cam correction bolts that some lift kits come with. Are they a good solution to correct caster? Are the correction brackets better?
I have a question about cam correction bolts that some lift kits come with. Are they a good solution to correct caster? Are the correction brackets better?
They work but are not the preferred way to correct caster. The axle mount is ground open to allow for the offset bolt or plate. Switching over to brackets or arms requires welding up the mounts. There's always that chance one or both can loosen. Brackets are cheap .. $100 and provide both caster correction and a smoother ride.
They work but are not the preferred way to correct caster. The axle mount is ground open to allow for the offset bolt or plate. Switching over to brackets or arms requires welding up the mounts. There's always that chance one or both can loosen. Brackets are cheap .. $100 and provide both caster correction and a smoother ride.
That info helps me a lot. Thanks kjeeper10!
Thinking about doing this set up for my lift now instead of one of the prefab kits. What is the reasoning behind using the geo brackets instead of new control arms? Ive seen a few people say the brackets give up some of the clearance you just gained with the lift.
What kind of performance trade off would a person be making if they wanted to use the stock rubi shocks with the adapters on this setup (saving $450)?
Thinking about doing this set up for my lift now instead of one of the prefab kits. What is the reasoning behind using the geo brackets instead of new control arms? Ive seen a few people say the brackets give up some of the clearance you just gained with the lift.
The brackets do hang lower and reduce chassis ground clearance. But they also reduce the operating angle of the front control arms which reduces the impact transmitted to the frame due to the higher control arm angles from a lift. It also reduces the brake dive induced by weight transfer. The geo brackets give a better ride... The lower control arms perform better off road. That's where you have to make a choice.


What kind of performance trade off would a person be making if they wanted to use the stock rubi shocks with the adapters on this setup (saving $450)?
The shocks do make a difference, but they can also be changed any time later if you wanted to. You might have a little less wheel travel with the shorter shocks, but it wouldn't be an issue under normal operating conditions. Also, keep in mind that you can do the new RS5000X shocks for about $150 right now with the Rancho rebate.
The brackets do hang lower and reduce chassis ground clearance. But they also reduce the operating angle of the front control arms which reduces the impact transmitted to the frame due to the higher control arm angles from a lift. It also reduces the brake dive induced by weight transfer. The geo brackets give a better ride... The lower control arms perform better off road. That's where you have to make a choice.
Thanks! Thats exactly what I needed to know. The geo brackets will be a much better choice for me at the moment. Not to mention they appear to be at least half the price of the cheapest CAs I saw. Also probably easy enough to swap out for CAs in the future if that changes.
Would you say the Geo brackets are still acceptable for moderate off roading? My jeep is my DD but I'd like to eventually have it out a couple times a month. Would you recommend new CAs once I start to get more serious? Would I remove the brackets if I went to new CAs? Functionality and longevity of the vehicle's components are more important to me than on road characteristics (I guess that's kind of a redundant statement beings I'm a wrangler owner haha)
Would you say the Geo brackets are still acceptable for moderate off roading? My jeep is my DD but I'd like to eventually have it out a couple times a month. Would you recommend new CAs once I start to get more serious? Would I remove the brackets if I went to new CAs? Functionality and longevity of the vehicle's components are more important to me than on road characteristics (I guess that's kind of a redundant statement beings I'm a wrangler owner haha)
Many people run them off road. I wouldn't worry too much.
You have the option to swap them out for arms or run together.
Thanks for the great information in this thread! As someone who is looking to lift their jeep this seems like the best bang for your buck. My jeep is mainly a DD with the occasional monthly offroading, are there any other recommendations for a lift? I see there are other Teraflex options out there, would you recommend any of those as well? I eventually want to put on 35's as well if that helps. I'm new to all this and want the best performance out of my jeep both on and off the road.
Thanks for the great information in this thread! As someone who is looking to lift their jeep this seems like the best bang for your buck. My jeep is mainly a DD with the occasional monthly offroading, are there any other recommendations for a lift? I see there are other Teraflex options out there, would you recommend any of those as well? I eventually want to put on 35's as well if that helps. I'm new to all this and want the best performance out of my jeep both on and off the road.
What is your budget ?
You could run front lower control arms instead of brackets.
^^^ teraflex new fixed arms would be sweet with the 2.5" lift.
What is your budget ?
You could run front lower control arms instead of brackets.
I'm looking to spend roughly around $500, I wouldn't mind going over that a bit. What is the main difference between control arms and brackets? From what I've seen from your posts this seems to be the way to go along with the new Rancho 5000x. Correct me if I'm wrong...
I'm looking to spend roughly around $500, I wouldn't mind going over that a bit. What is the main difference between control arms and brackets? From what I've seen from your posts this seems to be the way to go along with the new Rancho 5000x. Correct me if I'm wrong...
The brackets will give you a smoother ride. Both correct caster angle which is the main point of using either. Brackets are obviously cheaper.
That looks to be the correct kit but it showing the wrong bracket. Without shocks should come with the beefier axle side rear track bar bracket.
Check with other vendors or give Morris or call and see what they have to say.
I'm looking to spend roughly around $500, I wouldn't mind going over that a bit. What is the main difference between control arms and brackets? From what I've seen from your posts this seems to be the way to go along with the new Rancho 5000x. Correct me if I'm wrong...
I think maybe some vendors are still using an older stock photo? Here is the same Teraflex catalog number from a different vendor and the bracket is right...

Teraflex 1351002 - TeraFlex 2.5" Lift Kit without Shocks for 07-15 Jeep® Wrangler JK 2 Door - Quadratec

Sounds like the new Rancho 5000X is a hit!
Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it. Now just to save all this money so I can do it!
I guess I misunderstood some of the setup that was first posted at the beginning of this thread, I read it as you bought the geo brackets and also choose a set of lower CAs to go with the lift. But what I seem to be getting form the other post is that you choose one or the other, right? So if I choose to go with the adjustable lower control arms then I don't have to buy the geo brackets also, correct? I was looking at the Metalcloak systems and noticed that they go with adjustable upper control arms rather than lowers, is there any major reason for this, is one way better than the other or do both ways accomplish the same thing, adjusting the caster. Thanks for putting up with all the questions, money is tight and I need to try and do this right the first time or at least get a good start that I can build on without having to start all over again.
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