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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Figured I’d start a thread here to document my jeep. I’d imagine my mods will be nothing anyone’s never seen before but I wanted to share nonetheless.
I picked this guy up on New Year’s Eve for super cheap. It needs plenty of work which I knew going in. I’m somewhat handy and wanted to have a project that I can hopefully have finished up by spring.
It’s got some corrosion, had no brakes, and who knows what else I’ll find along the way.
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I got it home and up in the air to assess and found a crumbled passenger side front brake line.
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No big deal, I ordered stainless braided soft lines, and the powerstop Z36 kit for front and rear. Existing calipers were pretty cruddy so I just elected to go with reman-ed Chrysler units front and rear.
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When I tore into the rear, I found a mess made by leaking axle seals, so ordered new bearings and seals for both sides, as well as complete backing plate assemblies to save time and headache dealing with the parking brake assembly.
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Axles were a little stubborn so I flipped an old rotor over and threaded lugs on loosely and used it as a slide hammer which freed both of them up. Out they came. I carefully cut off the spacers, bearings and retainers. All new parts will replace.
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Continued in the next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Unfortunately my bearings and seals won’t arrive until tomorrow so the axles are just waiting. I fitted the new backing plates while we wait.
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I’m thoroughly confused on the placement of the components of the cable in relation to these brackets and the actuator.
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I failed to take a pic of it installed and something doesn’t seem right if I install it the way I think it should be. Lol Using both brackets, with the spring between the brackets puts a lot of tension on the actuator. If anyone has a picture of their cable from this view, I’d love to see it. Can’t find a pic or video of it anywhere on the web.
The exhaust was pretty trashed on the jeep too, so while I contemplated the parking brake cable conundrum, I installed a budget catback kit from Northridge4x4.
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Once I get these axle bearings pressed and reinstalled, I’ll finish up the brakes and can roll the thing around again. I’m raptor lining the entire exterior in OD green, so I’ve been removing bits and pieces when I have time in prep for sanding and a little bit of body work.
I’ve got the Rancho 2” sport kit waiting for it as well as front and rear Barricade bumpers and a winch. There’s a stack of 5 BFG KO2’s in 285/70-17 sitting in the corner and I’ll be doing some LED’s and got a Voswitch for that. There’s a ton more but I’ll roll out pics as things get completed. As of now, it sits like this:
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Looks great! Will be following along to see how the OD green raptor lining turns out since I have always been curious about that for my Jeep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had looked at some complete axle shafts, but for now I’m going to run these. The main goal at this point is to get it rolling and stopping properly. Lol. Cleaning and adding anti-seize along the way will make future upgrades/removal/replacements much easier I’m sure. This is my first Wrangler so I’m learning a lot.
 

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2016 JKU Sahara, Auto, Metal Cloak 2.5 lift, 35s
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Is that a 1/2 ton truck you're using to pull the U-Haul car hauler? How does it handle? I have a F-150 that is rated to pull my Jeep so we were thinking about renting the U-Haul trailer to pull the Jeep from south Mississippi to Colorado this summer. We'll be hitting some trails so I'd feel better trailering the Jeep in case we break something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Is that a 1/2 ton truck you're using to pull the U-Haul car hauler? How does it handle? I have a F-150 that is rated to pull my Jeep so we were thinking about renting the U-Haul trailer to pull the Jeep from south Mississippi to Colorado this summer. We'll be hitting some trails so I'd feel better trailering the Jeep in case we break something.
That’s a 2020 Chevy Trail Boss. So yea, a 1500 with factory tow package. Uhaul won’t actually approve this combination due to the combined weight of the Jeep and trailer equaling more than 60% of my tow rating.
That said, I drove cautiously and my truck pulled it beautifully. Got about 12 mpg from Alliance, OH to Tucker County, WV.
 

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2010 JK
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Not sure if you removed them, but the rear bump stops are missing in the picture of your rear parking brake. They should be in the tube on the frame above the rear axle.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Not sure if you removed them, but the rear bump stops are missing in the picture of your rear parking brake. They should be in the tube on the frame above the rear axle.
Thanks for the heads up, but yes I removed them. They were very dry and crumbling to dust, so I’ll be replacing them when I install the lift.
 

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2007 Wrangler Sport
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Thanks for the heads up, but yes I removed them. They were very dry and crumbling to dust, so I’ll be replacing them when I install the lift.
From personal experience, I have liked the metal cloak bump stops. Not ridiculously expensive but they have been much nicer than the stock one. Just an option. Good luck! This looks like a fun project.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I managed to spend an hour or two in the shop today tinkering. The battery wasn’t holding a charge so I snagged a Duracell at Sam’s club for 119$ after the core. I decided to replace the terminals while I was at it and added a quick connect for a battery tender.

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All the bearings, seals, and retainers arrived yesterday for the rear so I got all that pressed on and back in the rear axle housing.
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I had an old bearing race that was hollowed out to use as a spacer while installing 3.73’s in a Ford 8.8 rear that worked perfectly to press on the new stuff on these axles. My dad always said don’t throw good stuff away so that came in handy. Lol
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Both rear axles in. Now if XT would just sort out my missing rear pads and rotors I could bleed the system and finish this up.

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I removed the rest of the badging. A little Goo Gone, a heat gun, and a plastic trim removal tool makes quick work of all this.
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Zombies? Cute, but not my style. It’s gone.
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Hard to tell from the pic, but there was a dent here. I carefully hammered it out from the inside of that corner. I’ll sand that corner clean and apply a little bondo as needed this week.
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I’m unsure what the screw holes in my grill were for. Was there a stock headlight bezel or was it most likely aftermarket? Trying to decide if I’ll fix the holes or purchase bezels. I’m leaning toward just fix the holes.
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I got some LED festoon bulbs for the interior, but I noticed they stay just barely lit, even when the Jeep is totally off and keys out of the switch. What do I do about that?? I pulled the bulbs for now until I figure out what’s up with that.

So, I’m totally debadged and basically ready to degrease/dewax and get prepped for raptor line. The excitement grows day by day, but this phase cannot be rushed. I want to be sure the coating is done properly.

I have a bunch of hardware to media blast and powder coat this week as I can get to it.

Tons more stuff was ordered yesterday like coil spring isolators, 3/4” coil spacers to accommodate the bumpers and winch, tailgate hinges, hood hardware, 2014 turn signal housings, plus a bunch of miscellaneous nickel and dime stuff. You never realize how much tape and plastic and painting doodads add up till you need them.

I almost gave myself a heart attack after downloading the build sheet for the Jeep. Turns out mine came with 18” wheels stock. I ordered 1300$ worth of 17” tires anticipating mounting them on the stock wheels. I ran out to the garage to find my spare is an 18, but the other four are 17’s. Didn’t notice that when I picked it up. Whatever. I think I want to order wheels anyway. I love the Black Rhino Armory wheels, but I’m seeing plenty of negative reviews. Next choice would be the Mammoth Generals, but out of stock in the 17’s. Anyone have a similar military style wheel in black or satin black? Gotta be a 17” at this point.

I’m thoroughly enjoying the project so far and learning a ton scrolling the forums.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I’m not sure what’s going on here, but this brand new battery might be bad.
If the battery is disconnected, it reads 12.86 or so volts. As soon as I connect the terminals it drops to 5 and below. I did a parasitic drain test while removing every single fuse, one at a time, and it never drops below 0.18 on the 10AMP scale.
The dash is completely dead. A couple times I heard the relays click and a couple times the relays continued clicking fast, even with the key off.
My meter doesn’t have a “min/max” function so not sure how to load test the battery, other than taking it to autozone. I get equal-to-the-battery-post voltages when I probe at the TIPM connection, and the alternator, and the starter, however the posts on the starter are quite green.
The jeep fired right up when I brought it home and the only thing I’ve done is removed some amp research powered steps, but I removed all of its wiring and taped up where connections were made for that. It has been started since the steps were removed. And while it was running, I had 14.4V on the battery posts with engine running.
I’m taking the new battery to autozone today and grabbing a fresh battery for the key fob while I’m out.
What the heck happened here? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So advanced auto tested the battery. It’s a Duracell Group 34, 800CCA, 950CA. Tested at 13CCA. Lol, I’m no expert but I don’t think 13 cold cranking amps is enough to start the jeep. So I’m heading to Sam’s to exchange it.
Now my main concern is, is the jeep doing something to cause this?
It started just fine when I picked it up and got it home and moved it around. Then it went in the garage. I removed the Amp Research steps and what appeared to be an aftermarket 7-pin trailer hookup. I cleaned up where those connections were and put it back together. Next attempt at starting it resulted in a dead jeep. Bought the Duracell and it fired up. Tan it for a few minutes and shut it down. Next attempt at starting it, is where we are now.
Is there a test or procedure I can do to ensure another new battery won’t get trashed??

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sam’s replaced the battery, no questions asked. I got back to my place and put it in. 12.6V on the battery and the jeep started right up. The alternator gave it 14.4V for the few minutes that it ran. I did a quick scan with the JScan, cleared the stored low voltage faults and didn’t get any new faults. It dawned on me that I had left the Bluetooth OBD adapter plugged in the entire time the jeep sat, as well as leaving the key in the cup holder. I wonder if that killed the other batteries. I saw others having an issue with that, and I saw others who didn’t. I have no idea.

I did another parasitic draw test and didn’t see anymore than 15 milliamperes, and it hung at 8-9 mA for the majority of the time I watched it. I don’t yet have the nerve to leave the battery connected overnight to see if it can make it. In the meantime, I will be upgrading my wiring with a “Big 7” set from jeepcables. I figure it can’t hurt and I want to be able to add accessories in the future anyway.

I’m STILL waiting for my rear brake pads and rotors. Tracking says they were delivered today but they are nowhere to be found. I’m starting to get a tad irritated about these brakes. I’d like to be able to wheel this thing out of the shop, or at least get it down off my lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
UPS left my packages at the neighbors house yesterday and I tracked them down this morning. Today I got all the brakes tidied up and bled with a MightyVac. I attempted the ABS bleed with the JScan, but I still need a helper for that. I’ll have my gf press the brakes for this weekend hopefully, but they are already pretty firm, but I want to do it right.

I’ll be away for a couple days, so I left the battery disconnected for now even with the good results on the draw diagnostics. When I can be there for a couple straight days again, I’ll leave the battery hooked up and monitor it closely to see if something is wrong.

I’m getting an O2 sensor fault on the JScan. I can only imagine how much of a PITA it will be to get the old ones out. Not looking forward to that at all, but I’ll test the harness and the sensor and replace all the sensors if need be. It’s going to suck.

I media blasted my rear diff cover and will powdercoat it Saturday hopefully.

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