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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All! I have been visiting this forum since February, but just recently signed up.

I bought my 95 Wrangler in February. Everything worked, albeit roughly. The PO had some shocks, muffler and exhaust pipe in the back seat so I took it to my mechanic to install.

The mechanic said the frame was too rusted out to install the new exhaust and the shocks were wrong.

I bought the Frame/Shackle repair unit and several body panels ( drivers floor pan, drivers rocker, passenger rocker panel, rear valence, right rear corner )

I took the Jeep to a body shop and the owner did not want to take on the project becuase in his words it was too rusty and beyond repair.

Statements like this upset me, so I started the project myself.

I replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, pvc filter.

The seat belts were shot so I repalced them.

One of the hood latches was missing, so I replaced them both.

Here is my jeep as I bought it;



Here is the Frame before;



And After;



Drivers Side Rocker Panel Before;



Drivers Side Floor Pan before;



Floor Pan During;



Rocker Panel During;



Rocker Panel After;



Ran out of time before I was able to install the new floor pan, and has been below freezing the last couple days. This weekend will be warm so I will be installing it.



Upcoming projects - Passenger side rocker panel;



And replacing this;



With these;



And of course the rear corner plate. The Valence is just sitting on the bumperettes and will need to be trimmed to fit.

When done with the major body work I will tackle the surface rust that is randomly present. Instead of Forest Green, I'm thinking Burnt-Orangle with Metallic Flake. It should go nicely with the Spice trim.

Full steel doors are shot, but there is a shop about an hour away that can rebuild them. Also buying a soft top, hardware kit and two piece half doors.

Rear Bumper is toast.

Suspensions seems to be stock, the mechanic said that the ball joints and tie rod ends were tight.

It has loose steering, and needs an alignment. And has minor bump steer.

So many little items and some major ones.

When welding the drivers rocker panel I accidentally ignited the wire bundle to the rear of the Jeep. It still starts and runs, but no rear running lights, brake lights, turn signals. Additionally I cannot select vent from the heat control. Does the vacuum pump have a power tap in this wire bundle?
 

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Nice job patching up the frame. You're off to a good start!
 

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I'm going to be doing the same thing to the rear if the frame where the shackle is. Mine is a little worse in the passenger side and about the same as yours on the drivers side. Do you have any tips to make it go better?
Thanks!!
 

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Got yer work cut out for ya but looks like your motivated so...Here's hopefully a little inspiration for you. My old Rio Grande when it was pretty new.



ForumRunner_20140326_195110.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm going to be doing the same thing to the rear if the frame where the shackle is. Mine is a little worse in the passenger side and about the same as yours on the drivers side. Do you have any tips to make it go better?
Thanks!!
Having access to a lift makes it easier, but not needed. Since you will be removing the shackles, if you plan on any other mods ( axles, exhaust ) it would be a good time to do it. I bought my frame / shackle mount from quadratec.com

Auto Rust Technicians ART-42R - Autorust Passenger Side Rear Shackle Mount Section for 87-95 Jeep® Wrangler YJ - Quadratec

Auto Rust Technicians ART-42L - Autorust Driver Side Rear Shackle Mount Section for 87-95 Jeep® Wrangler YJ - Quadratec
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, so warm and dry weather makes for good progress.

Here is the new floorboard in;



And here is the driver side rocker in ( yes I know it's the wrong shade of green, but it's colored primer. And yes that is an eye bolt acting as the lower hinge. Ghetto, but temporary until I replace all the hinges.

 

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Hey, the eyebolt works, that's all that matters :)

I need to replace similar parts on my yjs driver's side as well so I am admiring your work
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, so in addition to Running lights, brake lights, backup lights, rear wiper, rear washer, and defroster wiring, there was also a washer hose in the bundle that got burnt.




So for the wiring, here is my solution;



And then I got a two foot section of washer hose, four clamps, and two unions.
After work I will get it all installed and tested out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yesterday I got the chunk of burnt wires out and splices in. Blinkers and hazard lights work. Running lights, brake lights, rear wiper motor and rear window washer not so much. Additionally, radio does not, gauges do not. I'm think blown fuses or fusable links. Note to self, disconnect the battery when welding a car. Second note to self, move wire bundles away from metal being welded. Going to be raining here the next four days. I'm gonna cheat have have my mechanic look at the fuses / wiring / power brake booster / vacuum.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Over the weekend, I changed the oil and tranmission fluid. I added Lucas Oil transmission conditioner. No change in shifting. Seems like a bad syncro or I will simply have to bite the bullet and get the trans rebuilt or replaced. I pulled all the carpet and found that one of the PO's put about two dozen screw holes. Four were definitely for a center console, which I will be installing. Holes on the wheel wells look to be from speakers. Holes under back seat might have been an amplifier ?!? anyway, I used a 1/4" drill bit to make the smaller holes bigger and remove the rust from the edges. I sprayed primer and put plugs in. Almost ready to bed-liner the whole interior.

So the Power Brake booster is shot and getting replaced today. woot for power brakes!

While taking it to the shop a god awful sound start coming from the rear. I couldn't tell if it was a bad axle hub, or shot wheel bearings. Almost sounded like the nuts were coming off the lugs, but they were tight. Anyone had this sound from the rear?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, I worked on the Jeep all day yesterday, but it doesn't feel Like I got much done.

I replaced the bump stops on the front






can you tell the good ones from the bad?


While I removed the rear wheels to do the bump stops, I found what the rumbling sound was




Unfortunately, I received the wrong bump stops for the rear, so I will have to get an RMA with Quadratec.

I pulled out the interior and used Rustoleum bed-liner to coat the interior


Then when I re-assembled the interior, I mounted the center console.


I had other parts but ran out of time. Supposed to thunder storm here today, so I took the Jeep back to the shop for them to finish installing the Power Brake Booster.
Should get it back some time this week,
 

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Wow! I really feel for the northern guys bringing your YJ's back to life, dealing with the rust is a rough gig.. I am from Mass so I know how rusty cars can get and it's a bear to remove rusty parts, it's looking good brother! Keep on postin..
 

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I know what you mean. Every time you remove a rusty bolt there's another one waiting and it takes forever to get anything accomplished.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Okay so a good and bad weekend. On Friday I got the rear bump stops replaced. I got the rear shocks replaced. I couldn't get the rear track bar to budget. Tried cutting it off, but it ate two saw blades. On Saturday I got the front shocks replaced. I started the steering stablizer. getting the frame end out, no problem. Got the nut off the long tie rod end, no problem. Getting the steering stabilizer off the long tie rod end, nope. It's seized. Not an issue, becuase I bough all the tie rod ends and ball joints. So I remove the long tie rod from the passenger side. I remove the tie rod end from the drivers side. can't remove the drag link from the long tie rod. I go to remove the tie rod end from the pitman arm. Nut came off no problem. tie rod end seized to pitman arm. Beat on it with hammer. Nope. I cut it off with a grinding wheel. I go to remove the tie rod end from the drag link. Broke the Drag loink bar. Now I have to order it. The pitman arm nut is supposedly a 33mm. I can't find a socket or box wrnech in 33mm anywhere local. I decide to assemble what I have already and order the rest. I put the long tie rod in. I put the tie rod from drag link to long tie rod in. I remove the old tie rod to tie rod coupler. I go to put the drivers toe rod end in, nope, wrong diameter shaft. It is not thick like the long tie rod, but thin like the pitman arm tie rod end or the drag link to long tie rod. Check Quadratec, and sure enough, I ordered the supposed correct part. So now I need to;

1. Get a draglink. $30 on Quadratec.
2. Get the correctly sized drivers side tie rod end. ( how do you tell them it's the wrong size? )
3. Remove the tie rod end shaft from the pitman arm, or replace the pitman arm
( $ for tools to remove pitman arm and possibly $22 for new pitman arm )
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Broke one pitman arm removal tool. Got it replaced. Used a cut-off wheel and the removal tool and got the pitman arm off. New one should be here today. O'Rileey's had the 33mm socket. Now if only the rain would stop!
 

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This is the start of an awesome thread! My 95 Rio Grande had most of the exact same rust issues as you have. I've been slowly working through them. To bad I didn't know about this site when I first started my project!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
New pitman arm and drag link tube came in, I got it connected only to find that between the Skyjacker Steering stabilizer and the new long tie rod, something ain't quite right. I had to drill the hole in the long tie rod larger for the set pin to fit through. It ehn extended way beyond the long tie rod. I had to use a spacer so the nut would have something to purchase against. Now that the drag link is connected, it is touching the nut. Here are some photos of recent work.

New shocks all around;


Here is the new stabilizer jerry rigged in.


Here is the old pitman


Here is the new pitman
http://i61.tinypic.com/xpvsxt.jpg

Does anyone see the problem with the new equipment?


I'm going to try putting the space ont the other side, if not I already went to Home Depot and got grade 8 bolt, nuts and washers.
 
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