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Discussion Starter #1
To re-cap I am putting a 5.7L chvy 350 1985 motor with a TH400 trans and a np241 into my jeep. I previously built and procured all the above items and radiators, etc... I started the actual swap Dec. 1st here is where Im at:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I needed to make my own mounting solution for my radiator due to space limits with using the TransDapt bolt on motor mount (i suggest using a different one) and came up w/ this:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
heres a shot of the bracket...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I made it to mimic a "C" clamp but with rubber pads and a front bolt post to mount to the grill area. Now heres a shot of the jeep Dec. 2nd:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Where I am at today, is the 2.5L is out, harness is out, the dash is opened up, clutch pedal and res. is out. exhaust is all out. trans and t-case is sitting on my belly pan, no drive shafts. <---( trans/t-case would be out but i didnt put anti-sieze on my belly bolts when i did the lift four years ago so they ARE siezed) Im gonna have to cut two of em....grrr. I'll post pics l8tr today. NOW MY QUESTIONS:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Q:1-do I need to keep my jeeps computer?
Q:2-with putting my jeeps spedo into this t-case does that run through my computer?
Q:3-same as above but for using existing gauges?
Any suggestions concerning these issues? Do I disect the harness to get what I need and the computer to manage the "Mopar" stuff and wire all the chevy stuff up independantly? Like the list goes on and on for that stuff...like electric to the front axle, the fuel pump if i keep that, the ABS<--(i think that is the connection at my brakes proportioning valve at the master cylnder)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
four days not to bad... a wife about to pop my daughter out, and a two year old. alot of distractions:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I started cutting the motor mounts off<--wish i had a big bottle of acetlyne. using cut off wheels and grinders-yuck. solved my front axle/ t-case match up problem thanks to 64panhead. had me get a posi-lok to eliminate the vac lines from t-case to the d30. re-drilling a new belly pan mount holes (had to cut two bolts off)<that went through 8 sawz-all blades...lol! im also cleaning up the frame where exposed and re-sealing it (por15) doing some black paint and herc on the firewall. herc is going in the center "dent" in area and down low on the sides and in the trans tunnel. rest black paint. i should be placing the 350 cross member mount and gearing up for the install within the nxt two days (hope the wife can clutch that kid a couple more days)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
went w/ a red firewall w/ herc middle instead. i have to cut my shocks off to mount my new motor mount. cutting and buying new shocks is easyier than trying to get post style shocks off.
i hope i can finish this build within the two month time frame that i have. i'll get someone to help me when it comes time to wire and start it.
 

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as far as i know the speedo on that should be cable driven so it shouldnt need to run through the computer at all, odo reads off the speedo. the tach however will probably run off the eninge, most likely some type of sensor on the cam
 

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had me get a posi-lok to eliminate the vac lines from t-case to the d30.
Putting an awful lot of work into this build to consider running the stock axles.

even if only for DD/mall crawling they will not hold up in front of the sbc.

Good time to consider 8.8 rear and d44 up front at least if ya dun wanna be replacing axle shafts all the time.

.02

nothing more, nothing less
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yep, i plan on 8.8 rear and d44 up front, but i gotta give the wallet a break for just a little while. the posi i got was the always on one (cheap) im not putting any money into those axles... i'll be nursing my engine in and carting my little girls around the first 6 months then ill get the axles.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
heres a pic of yesterday, before i finished the drivers frame rail. i bit off cyote94YJ w/ his herced frame. i really dug it and it was a better choice than por15 i think cuz that stuff still peeled. i will do the rest of frame another day. im concentrating on engine/bay only right now. (i didnt remove frame just painted around chit.)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i just got shut down for a week because the cross member mount thrreads are screwed on the passengers side. transdapt is sending a new one<---grrr! and i got yet a new question...i never thought about my steering lines. how do I match up the lines from a chevy saginaw pump to the jeeps steering box? i couldnt find anything at AA but maybe i just missed it. any solutions???_thanks
 

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i have to cut my shocks off to mount my new motor mount. cutting and buying new shocks is easyier than trying to get post style shocks off.
i put ford f250 shock towers on mine. they were like 10 bux a piece at the stealer. they are non-stud style
 

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Discussion Starter #16
would i be able to retain my shock tower and use the ford (doesnt sound like it...)because my engine mount bolts through frame AND shock tower. but i am getting those stud/ to eye adapters from quadra... and i'll use anti sieze this time cuz now they got remote resiviors (edelbrock)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ohh, another resto problem i had was the seam of the tub on the firewall and trans tunnel had separated ever so slightly but was allowing water into the tub. when it rained, the water would ride the hood channel at the hinge edge to either side of the front fender verticle mount bolt points. from there it would catch the tub seam and travel that and find separation. so i welded the one bad spot and then poured on the herc into that seam and channel. first coat was thinned w/ zylene so it would "wick" up into the seams and or any seperations. then heavy coat of regular to finnish.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
man, im havin' a btch of a time getting my wiring problem solved! painless does not make a harness for my application...i need my 1985 350 (non comp. controlled) motor and th400 wired into the jeep. this should be simple for people in the know. i myself know nothing about wiring a car but can follow directions. WHY SO HARD!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
ya know i dont even need any gauges to work right now, i just need this engine to fire and the trans to move me foreward. this is my DD and i only got 2 months to figure everything out PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!
 

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I have no idea man ive never had this problem before and your first mistake (no offence) was sticking that chevy motor into a MOPAR creation!
 
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