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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,
I've read pretty much all the threads on this and many other Jeep forum sites and just thought I wanted to add some useful hints and tips for anyone wishing to install this lift themselves. This is by no means a how to but more of an addition to all the great information already out there. :thumb:

So here I've got all the Kit including the geometry correction brackets, plus I've got a new steering stabilizer and 1.5 inch wheel spacers. :)

I also got a bolt hardware package to replace all the lower control arm bolts and both front and rear track bar bolts with 9/16 inch grade 8 bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
First up, axle stands.
You will need 6 ton axle stands, well they will need to be able to support your Jeep at a height of 20 inches on the chassis rails in front of the lower control arm bracket at the rear or behind the lower control arm brackets when you're doing the front.
I had 3 ton axle stands and thought they would be high enough, wrong, wasted half a day running into town to buy larger ones :banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so to the rear,

don't forget to pull out the cable clips holding the speed sensors from under the chassis before you lower the axle

Also the new track bar bracket that bolts to the axle has 2 u-bolts and a single bolt that bolts where your old track bar used to, that single bolt on mine seized on me half way up the thread so used caution here and some anti-seize paste. lucky for me I had a spare bolt kicking around the workshop but I still had to spend extra time cutting the seized one out:doh:
 

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great choice on the Lift kit. AEV 2.5 is a great lift. Did one on my AEV not long ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Still with the rear,

you will need a second jack here. I put the left rear spring in first then used a bottle jack under the now vacant shock mount to jack the axle as far as I dare, I still had to use a pry bar to get the right spring to jump onto it's seat :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
at the rear,

I used a small ratchet strap to pull the axle over in order to get the bolt in the new track bar to body mount. sorry no pictures but you're understand when you're doing it. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
and so to the Front,

I followed the instructions with unbolting everything except the front shocks, what a b*@ch , wrapped my knuckles a couple of times before I cut them off. Save yourselves some grief here guys and use a saw. my old shocks were done anyways.:deadhorse:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did you have to drop the DS ?
Still don't know why AEV does this

Surprised you needed the bottle jack for the rear. I've never had a issue getting the rear coils in. The fronts are another story because of their length and the bumpstop in the way.
I didn't drop the drive shaft. I did however unbolt the front and tie it up. I also took out the front lower control arms to paint them while I fitted the geo brackets.
those lower control arms being out and the drive shaft disconnected made putting in the front springs easy :dance:
 

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I didn't drop the drive shaft. I did however unbolt the front and tie it up. I also took out the front lower control arms to paint them while I fitted the geo brackets.
those lower control arms being out and the drive shaft disconnected made putting in the front springs easy :dance:
That's what I meant. AEV is the only manufacturer I know of that instructs you to disco the DS.
Not something I'd want to do if I don't have to

And yes .... Stock rusty shocks can be a huge PIA. Having a ratcheting wrench helps. The bolts will eventually snap off anyways :D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
and now the Geometry brackets,

The left side is easy but the right side is a pain :facepalm:

The upper control arm bolt has very little room to come out and you have to pry the exhaust out of the way in order to get the bolt out.
Having done this finally ....I decided looking at the thickness of the new bracket that the bolt had to go in the other way around on re-assembly.
This sounds easy but you have to pass the bolt though the chassis and there's a chance you might drop the bolt off the socket into the chassis never to be seen again :nonono:
simple tip here guys is to place a piece of paper over the open socket and push the bolt head into the socket wrapped in paper thus keeping it firm enough for you to pass it though the chassis :D
 

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That's what I meant. AEV is the only manufacturer I know of that instructs you to disco the DS.
Not something I'd want to do if I don't have to

And yes .... Stock rusty shocks can be a huge PIA. Having a ratcheting wrench helps. The bolts will eventually snap off anyways :D
Rancho says to disco drive shaft. What I did was drop axle as low as I could and let DS rest on exhaust. I then jacked passenger side way up which lowered drivers side enough to insert spring using a spring compressor. Didn't take much, but mine was only a 2" kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
nearly there,

The rest of the front end went really well apart from re-installing the track bar. This was pretty heavy work with the ratchet strap which I was unable to undo after I got the bolts in and had to cut off.
Does make me think that maybe it needs an adjustable front track bar ?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Torqued up all the bolts and marked them all with white metal marker to make for easy checking later.
I did a pre-lift measure at all four wheels and after the lift install it appears that I have around a 4 inch lift. I don't have after market bumpers yet, which I intend to build myself later along with a roof rack :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
First Drive....

It feels very much like our BMW's, a much more tight solid feeling ride but the shocks handle the rebound on our wash boarded gravel roads around here very well. overall I am very pleased with my choice of lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Before and After Pictures, things learnt,

Have the right tools on hand;
6 Ton axle stands
electric saw
ratchet strap

I was also surprized at how bad my old steering damper was, in fact it was dead :banghead: when I took it out it didn't move and had little or no damping effect.
So if you do nothing else, change out that steering damper !

I hope this information I have shared helps someone in the future and keep on Jeeping guys :punk:

now saving up for new 35 inch tires next spring :drool:
 

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I was gonna say, I would pick up adj trackbar. On my shorter lift I was off a lot. When I adjusted trackbar before alignment my steering wheel was off by 1/4 turn. To me that was a lot. I went with teraflex bar and very happy with it.

I can't believe how crappy stock shocks are. Hit a big whoop in road that I used to go over everyday and with lift it takes it like its not there. Jeep used to buck with stock suspension.
 
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