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:drinks: OK not really, still my jeep, my blood, sweat, and no doubt tears! :)
Ok, folks I scored a 1994 YJ S 4.0 HO with 117K on the clock. It has passed through 3 coworkers hands and has now fallen to me! I came across a video on line where someone was describing his jeep and his Build/rebuild process, and he made a comment that REALLY, REALLY, resonated with me. It was about making your jeep, yours. And not making money off of it. And ultimately that meant "to the average person pumping a rage inducing amount of money" into it. :worthy: And so I was hooked. I am moderately mechanically inclined, and got some tools and access to a friend with more tools and knowledge too. So down to brass tacks.

At first I thought it was going to a super light trail rider but with an air of Mall Crawler about it. But then it hit me, at some point I am going to see something and be like... (hold my beer, I got this!) so it only seems to make sense to build it up a bit, to handle the inevitable stupidness and lack of self preservation that will be a by product of awesome Jeepness. I know building up, can lead to that "rage inducing" amount of money but also, that with CL, pick and pulls, rebuilding junkyard components, and a little knowledge you can really make things work.
Without pawning off a kidney. Sometimes. Maybe. Ok, as long as its not MY kidney whatever... So I wanna get to 35's with a 4-5" lift and possibly a 1" BL if needed. With the build up figured might as well go with Disc Rears (if a new axle is in the future might as well make it work for me.) I will post up the main stuffs that I got in mind, but I am not married to any particular part or product, but do want decent value and not just over pay for a particular brand (Looking at you ARB!). So my Bullet points:

1. Upgrade jeep in phases.
2. Keep it as driveable as long as possible before going to the blocks and doing the heavy stuff.
3. Try not to overstep my skill set, (can't weld yet but really wanna pick a welder up.)
4. Use the forum and resources available, to make as FEW mistakes as possible to hold me up from enjoying it.
5. Jump it. (jk, sorta a little air without imploding would be neat)
6. Without breaking it.
7. Be smart with money and online orders, bulk buy from sites when and as needed.

THE NAUGHTY BITS IN MIND ( guesstimated costs are likely to change)
Lift 4.5" $670 RC *
Tire/Wheel 35's $215 KM3 $250 Wheels QTEC *
Re-Gear 4.56 $535 RC*
Front Axle Kit $570 RC*
Rear Axle $220 (110x2) RC*
Steering stabilizer $110RC*
PowerTrax lockerD35 27spline(rear) $430 QTEC*
PowerTrax lockerD30 27spline(front)$418 QTEC*
Rear CV Drive Shaft $300 RC*
Slip Yoke Eliminator $215 RC*
1" MORE motor mounts
Energy Suspension Red mounts for all the bushings!
PosiLock kit $135
Adjustable track bar $124 ET
Quick disconnect end links $157 ET
Barricade Trail Force Bumper $250 ET
Rear Bumper with Carrier $350 ET
Bushwacker Flares 6" $300 ET
Rocker Guard $125 ET

And I get it guys, with all this stuff in mind why go with so much Rough country stuff??? Like I said Value where I can and smart decisions (is a RE 4.5" Really 2x the value of a RC lift? they literally have ALL the same components included in their kits, and RC has the Mil. Wrap on the springs) But on some of the bits, I would prefer to have some brand name or upgraded stuff, like the gears to be something decent G2 Yukon Revolution over the RC gears which I think are probably a little suspect or just unknown.
It would be annoying to buy junk gears, all set and pressed up that whine no matter how you set them when for just 1-$200 more you could have gotten a nicer quiter set. On that note who makes quiet gears? :happyyes:

And as noted this is all a learning cycle I am very new to the JEEP world, and I stated earlier this is my primer list subject to change!

So what I see happening is, if I lift it, it'll be silly if I don't then get tires and wheels, Once lifted and with wheels, I need to re-gear, (@3.55 now with 31's and can feel it lugging) if I am in there, gotta locker up too , while in there seals... or is it a whole new axle rebuild? Which also leads to SYE and a CVD. And syncing, and vibration issues and all that madness. Do I tummy tuck while having the T-case off? Is that worth the effort? Is it even possible, is this just becoming a word salad. Who am I, and what am I doing here!!! :atomic:
Sorry It just seems to go downhill super fast, here and so much stuff to absorb.

So to point 1. How do I organize this in phases to keep her on the road in between upgrades? At some point its going to be 2-4 weekends, where its going to get buck wild, but I kinda want that to be towards the end. I got good seed money in the bank to start, but I would rather go a few paychecks on ramen to sock away a few grand without crushing the savings. In the end she will get re-painted and I want to go with a Black and Tan look with red accents around it. I was thinking of spraying down the interior plastics in Spice/ Camel Tan. If done carefully with good paint it might be ok. Thoughts? I searched for Spice colored bezels and other plastic bits and 80$ for an already cracked plastic trim? Might as well toss 4 coats of rattle can and 3 of UV protector and call it a day. I Haven't decided if I want to LineX (or some bed-liner like thing) the whole thing; or maybe clean it up and Plasti-Dip her so I can change color schemes on the cheap. She's currently Blue with some nasty clear coat fade on the hood.

YJ OWNERS ASSEMBLE!!! (Blows Conch!) :dance::punk::Thanx:
Give me your thoughts!! Lets get this sucker Rolling!

p.s. I have already done LEDS in front ( Hikari eyes of megatron 12K lumens) and some LEDS in the Rear too. And picked up stuff for a super Tune up. ( ALL THE SENSORS, and wires rotor cap air and fuel filter) Got an Optima Gold Top in it, and replaced the Ignition switch, dimmer switch is next once I get my Glow dashes in and installed. Will do subtle interior easy stuff where I can, new door panels Pull handles that kinda stuff.
 

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All that reading and no pictures, I feel insulted!
 
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I'll take more tomorrow! Tomorrow is an UBER tune up. Smells a little rich when it idles. Hopefully I won't mess up the timing bit... I'll consult the youtubes as needed!
 

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Most of that novel sounds like a good plan. I say most because you have parts in there to upgrade your Dana 35. Do yourself a favor and find yourself a Ford 8.8 that has the disk brakes that you mentioned already on it. It is a much stronger axle and is a very straight forward swap.


Other than that, I am in for the ride.
 

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Thanks DaddyJeep I was thinking maybe a 2001 Ford explorer rear end, might be good from what I have read? Dropping $500+ for a disc conversion when you can get a whole rear end with brakes already on it out of a pick an pull for less, AND it has the 8.8 in it seems like a no brainer. That's the kind of stuff I am shooting for! Questions on that are: is it wider or shorter than the original, and, is the differential input location centered? or like do I gotta shave a few inches off of one side? I'll hunt through some build threads and see whats doing for the back end.

There's been a fair amount of views that peeked at this build, but not too many are dropping advice for the order of operations here. :confused: I guess I will just have to carefully plot what needs to be done and do what makes the most sense as I go. I did a tune up today. Fuel Filter, Cap, Rotor, Plugs, Wires, Idle Air Control, MAP sensor, TPS, Intake Air Temp sensor, and 02 sensor as well. Definitely feels smoother and exhaust aroma is less rich.
Sparkies where looking a bit beat!

Advice is welcome as I go along! If anything seems to make sense to you just toss it on here and we shall see how it goes!

Attached are some more pics as she currently sits. The scoprions on there actually measure closer to 29 3/4" than 31" On Ultra wheels. Sorry on the uploads, no matter how I rotated and re-saved them, the preview insists on clocking them 90 degs. to the left no matter how I tried to reorient them.
 

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Well, in looking at your plan, most of what you have planned needs to happen at pretty much the same time. The bumpers can happen at any time, but the lift, all of your additional suspension stuff, sye, drive shafts, and gears all needs to happen together. Obviously you can find and build an 8.8 rear axle in advance. It will require a different drive shaft so it really needs installed after you do the SYE so you can measure and order the drive shaft. I would suggest gathering all your parts, stock the beer fridge, and have a couple buddies come over for a weekend and knock it out.
 

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...
1. Upgrade jeep in phases.
2. Keep it as driveable as long as possible before going to the blocks and doing the heavy stuff.
3. Try not to overstep my skill set, (can't weld yet but really wanna pick a welder up.)
4. Use the forum and resources available, to make as FEW mistakes as possible to hold me up from enjoying it.
5. Jump it. (jk, sorta a little air without imploding would be neat)
6. Without breaking it.
7. Be smart with money and online orders, bulk buy from sites when and as needed.

THE NAUGHTY BITS IN MIND ( guesstimated costs are likely to change)
Lift 4.5" $670 RC *
Tire/Wheel 35's $215 KM3 $250 Wheels QTEC *
Re-Gear 4.56 $535 RC*
Front Axle Kit $570 RC*
Rear Axle $220 (110x2) RC*
Steering stabilizer $110RC*
PowerTrax lockerD35 27spline(rear) $430 QTEC*
PowerTrax lockerD30 27spline(front)$418 QTEC*
Rear CV Drive Shaft $300 RC*
Slip Yoke Eliminator $215 RC*
1" MORE motor mounts
Energy Suspension Red mounts for all the bushings!
PosiLock kit $135
Adjustable track bar $124 ET
Quick disconnect end links $157 ET
Barricade Trail Force Bumper $250 ET
Rear Bumper with Carrier $350 ET
Bushwacker Flares 6" $300 ET
Rocker Guard $125 ET

And I get it guys, with all this stuff in mind why go with so much Rough country stuff??? Like I said Value where I can and smart decisions (is a RE 4.5" Really 2x the value of a RC lift? they literally have ALL the same components included in their kits, and RC has the Mil. Wrap on the springs) But on some of the bits, I would prefer to have some brand name or upgraded stuff, like the gears to be something decent G2 Yukon Revolution over the RC gears which I think are probably a little suspect or just unknown.
It would be annoying to buy junk gears, all set and pressed up that whine no matter how you set them when for just 1-$200 more you could have gotten a nicer quiter set. On that note who makes quiet gears? :happyyes:

And as noted this is all a learning cycle I am very new to the JEEP world, and I stated earlier this is my primer list subject to change!

So what I see happening is, if I lift it, it'll be silly if I don't then get tires and wheels, Once lifted and with wheels, I need to re-gear, (@3.55 now with 31's and can feel it lugging) if I am in there, gotta locker up too , while in there seals... or is it a whole new axle rebuild? Which also leads to SYE and a CVD. And syncing, and vibration issues and all that madness. Do I tummy tuck while having the T-case off? Is that worth the effort? Is it even possible, is this just becoming a word salad. Who am I, and what am I doing here!!! :atomic:
Sorry It just seems to go downhill super fast, here and so much stuff to absorb.
A solid plan, though I'll throw in my $0.02 - which is worth about as much as you paid for it ;)

It may not seem like much, but stepping up from 33" tires to 35" tires is much more than adding 2" larger tires. 33" seems to be about the ceiling on the D30 in regards to brakes and unit bearings. A friend and local FB Jeep buddy just did the same (he was already running 33" tires and 4.88's). He added a F8.8 with discs and 4-link rear (it's amazing!). Soon after, he went with a new set of 35" M/T's - and no he's regretting that decision as his brakes are leaving him high and dry.

A neighbor rocking a TJ recently felt the 35" 'experience'. He was running a set of 33" tires for a long time but went with some tube fenders and went up to 35" Toyos. Now he is not only complaining about his brakes, but also had both unit bearings wear out (not at the same time). If you're really looking for the added performance of 35" tires, be aware that they come at a cost - and is something to consider.

Note that you'll never clear true 35" tires on just a 4.5" lift (esp the RC lift) with common 3.75" BS wheels without a 1" BL and likely trimming/fender mods.

Some other notes... Regarding the RC vs RE comment, and in general "budget friendly" vs "higher priced" options. There are many times where you get what you pay for. I made the same argument when I first rebuild my YJ and went with the X-Series setup. While it rode nice, it left some gaps in performance. The lift is achieved by moderate lift springs and long shackles (1.5" of lift, so 3" longer than stock). This negatively affects handling and gives a very "loose" feeling steering wheel due to reduced caster. While the springs did indeed flex okay, the Jeep never felt confident on the road. That being said, if this is something that will stay away from highways and mostly be on the trails, the X-series does offer some good value. I will also add that I got near-new RE Extreme 4.5" springs off of Craigslist for $200 (all 4!) b/c a guy wasn't happy with how tall they were (I'm not sure what he was expecting lol).

There are areas where we know, from countless amounts of anecdotal data, that the "savings" of RC stuff is lost when needing replacement. For example, RC gears, CV, SYE, etc. are only marginally cheaper. Generally speaking, "value" is defined as the ratio of "worth/cost". If something costs a lot of money, but is worth much more, there is "value" there. Costs are easy to find - you've already done that. You need to examine "worth", and not just monetarily. Add in your time, energy, effort and possible frustration into parts that are known to be surpassed by marginally more costly options.

While we're on the topic - are the $300+ Bushwhacker flares a better option than the $120 eBay/Amazon flares or $50 TJ flares? Where's the "value" there? (that's a rhetorical question :) ).

I'm getting long in the tooth here, but some other quick thoughts - the D35 is less than an ideal option, especially in 27 spline form, for 35" tires -- the adjustable track bar options are terrible, that money can be spent on an aftermarket track bar with proper length and geometry -- skip the MORE MML and go with Brown Dog Offroad and support a small (and local to AZ) shop -- 4.56 gears are not enough for 35" tires and a 5-speed (if I weren't going V8, I'd probably go 5.13/5.38 in mine and I'm running 4.88's) -- DON'T spend any more than $30 on any steering stabilizer!
 

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Looking very good and solid plan, can't wait to see whats next!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes, this is the kind of awesome feedback I’m looking for! :awesome: Definitely want to support small vendors if they make a good solid product! And that’s a good point I found the costs but the value was really what matters and like I said I’m not opposed to spending 50 or 100 bucks more on a different product if the value and quality is there! Sooo Tom Woods and a better SYE then? And I get the you get what you pay for; some times you are buying more than just the name and there is decent build quality and longevity built into those products.

Now, that being said is Rubicon express really double the value and worth of a rough country? I mean I got no problem spending the money but I want to make sure I spend in the right place. It seems a lot of people don’t seem to mind the rough country so much. Maybe if a couple people on here have ridden in the Rubicon express versus a rough country and they can say definitively you get greater flex on the Rubicon express and the spring rate is more plush the shocks dampene better then I would lean to it that way. I don’t wanna come off as a rough country fan boy, but I mean what is the component list here? springs shackles shocks that’s really about it. And I think they offer a warranty as well. And I was meaning to replacing the shackles anyway with a greaseable pair. Currently, my jeep feels clapped out, nearly horizontal springs, and I am buffing the heck out of the front axle with the bump stops on just regular dirt roads. And good poinst on thefender flares!

So I was doing some research if I can score a decently inexpensive junkyard 8.8 I will rebuild that whole thing, and likely go with the super 88 kit. And that’s a good note on the limits of the D30 with 35s. I was thinking 456 is because I may not be doing that aggressive Trail climbing and rock climbing an that stuff and it may see a fair amount of Highway use. There are numerous charts flooding on the inter-webs that show wheel size to gear size and RPMs in fourth gear for highway speed. And I think doing that whole ring gear things set up as something out hopefully just do once, and not have to mess with it again. Now that being said if these issues or something to consider should I buy a D44 front and rebuild that as a super 44 while I’m doing all this? I mean if we’re going for a longevity survivability low maintenance and the ability to tackle whatever the hell I want to throw at it kind of makes sense doesn’t it? Noting the brake issues your friend had maybe I should get an aftermarket rotors and quality pads for my 88 then?

As to doing a little body trimming I am not against it do you think it’s more advantageous to do body trimming over a body lift in terms of on road stability and control to operate with 35”s? Needless to say, more forum hunting digging and research is needed! And I would prefer to hear first person accounts with their experiences on their lifts. And yes I read through 18 or 20 something pages of people discussing their lifts and how they ride. That’s the other thing if I go 35’s might need a whole new steering box assembly? If I get all the stuff my garage is going to be filled with replacement jeep parts and I’m going to have to run a rampage one four day weekend! (If done correctly my schedule permits me to put Friday Saturday of one weekend off joined next two Sunday Monday of the following week.) I think I would love to have as much is I could “dry fit” and prepped off the jeep before going balls deep into this. Although the odds of a first timer jamming together a perfectly correct pinion angle with this kind of lift and heavy amount of replacement parts seems highly unlikely. But that’s why am here trying to poke your guys’s brains!
 

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Here is yet another suspension thought for you to consider. Spring Over Axle. If you are looking at 35's then this could be a good option. This is in no way a less expensive option than buying a lift when done correctly. There are some advantages with SOA and some disadvantages. Since you live in a state with some fantastic wheeling opportunities going with a suspension design that allows you to further it's capabilities later if you desire may be better than an suspension that would need entirely replaced later if you want more. Or... you could just go 4 link and coil overs. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
DaddyJeep read through some of your builds there too, inspiring stuff! Like I said I got a decent cash flow, but I really want to do the research and the legwork before I get into this. Do what I can to get all the information before I get this thing on blocks, and into it. I have done a lift before on my S10 and replaced a carrier and threw a PowerTrax no slip into that, as well as pulling that motor and tranny and getting them rebuilt. So I got some basic wrenching skills so hopefully I can get this stuff dropped and pulled and slapped back together on a long weekend.
 

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I just installed RC 4" lift with there nitro shocks used 5" greaseable shackles boomerang in rear. I am extremely happy with the ride. My other jeep has a 4" procomp lift, and is a lot rougher/ stiff ride. I have never road in a jeep with the RE lift so I can't compare that to the other 2.
 

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... Now, that being said is Rubicon express really double the value and worth of a rough country? I mean I got no problem spending the money but I want to make sure I spend in the right place. It seems a lot of people don’t seem to mind the rough country so much. Maybe if a couple people on here have ridden in the Rubicon express versus a rough country and they can say definitively you get greater flex on the Rubicon express and the spring rate is more plush the shocks dampene better then I would lean to it that way. I don’t wanna come off as a rough country fan boy, but I mean what is the component list here? springs shackles shocks that’s really about it. And I think they offer a warranty as well. And I was meaning to replacing the shackles anyway with a greaseable pair. Currently, my jeep feels clapped out, nearly horizontal springs, and I am buffing the heck out of the front axle with the bump stops on just regular dirt roads. And good poinst on thefender flares!...!
Perhaps it's just how you're wording it, or maybe how I'm reading it, but it appears as though you're leaning on the Rough Country lift. Before you take the plunge, I wanted to clarify what RC lift you're talking about. I assume, or have assumed at least, that you're talking about the 4.5" X-Series lift (Rough Country) and have been comparing it to the 4.5" Rubicon Express Extreme lift.

I wanted to clarify, since you've said "2x the (sic) value" twice already.

The average price (says Google) is $795 (for manual trans) for the X-series lift. The RE Extreme lift averages $1158. The difference between the two is only $363. The kits are very similar in terms of what is included, but the RE Extreme kit does include greaseable shackles (both include new springs, sway bar disconnects - which you had listed as a separate line item, extended brake hoses, etc.).

If for some reason you're considering the standard RC lift - stop right now and reconsider as the standard RC stuff is absolute garbage (and this doesn't just apply to Jeeps)...

The X-series lift is actually a fairly nice kit. When I did my frame swap, I actually used the X-series lift to start. It rode okay and flexed fairly well, but I did not like the 1.5" lift front shackles. It lowered caster too much and made for a very loose feeling steering wheel and was never confidence inspiring on the highway.

As my build went from "budget" to "not budget (lol)", I ended up piecing together pieces for the suspension setup that I wanted. I ended up on a set of 4.5" RE Extreme springs and then eventually RE 2.5" springs (but am running the 4.5" springs now). Both sets of springs have had good shackle angle and a very nice, compliant ride (I'm also using the cheapo twin tube RE shocks for the softest valving possible). While I am happy with the 4.5" ride, I'm going back to my 2.5" springs ASAP (once I get my MetalCloak flares this winter/spring).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pc1P thanks for chiming in again, I have poured through you build pages and do appreciate your wealth of knowledge and of course collective knowledge on the site here that so many provide. Actually the RC kit I was looking at was the one with the military wrap springs for ~$690. Now thinking on this, if I own this Jeep for like say ten years... And go through 3 sets of tire at 1,200+ a set of 5. Spending more on a lift seems like a no brainer.

I suppose that my main concern, is once I launch into popping into the heavy stuff is I'm going to be a hemorrhaging a lot of cash in short order. I kinda gotta thing where if I start something (and I really, really, really want it) I have a tendency to finish it ASAP. Rifle builds, pistol builds, paying off a dirtbike or car. Point is I start dumping cash a lot.
:rip: My wallet.

And it seems that the 8.8 back end is a must if contemplating 35's, even if I don't jump there right away I want it prepped so I can toss them on as tire set #2 and see how it goes.
So I guess I just need to eat my fear of OMGSOMUCHMONEYGONE!!! :puke: And just be like, daaaaamn that's my kickass jeep! :winner:

Like I said earlier in the thread, this was a starting point, in terms of ideas for parts and types of things to get and pick up; and quality will exceed cost, but value still needs to hold on as well. If you replace a junky thing 2x, where as a slightly more pricey item really stands the test of time then buy the better item. So I'll need to pinch pennies and start saving, and see what can be done, sooner rather than later. And eventually what must be bulked together for the sake of just making sense in the build. Also, like I said I am new to the JEEP game but not new to throwing stupid sums of money (to me anyway) on builds. Another core component was keeping the wheels spinning in the dirt and not up on jacks for extended periods. So careful planning before diving in needs to be taken into consideration. So if a seasoned Jeeper on here has a strong opinion on something as to its quality and construction and durability of use, that kind of intel is very, very valuable to me. Preferably if its primary knowledge, not like, I know a guy whose friends cousins' roommate once had this lift and it blew a spring. Real tests, real world feedback.

Sidenote, really wanna go black and tan with red accents for the color scheme on the jeep. Sort of a slightly darker shade of flat dark earth, and black and a red. In a textured liner, so researching those now as well. Your thoughts folks? To keep the fire alive, wheels arrived with nuts and caps, I'm going to try and get a mount swap done soon for those, and illuminated gauge cluster insert thingies, once installed pics to follow in the girl.
(apologies on the poor grammar a few home brews and a night cap of Ron Zacapa Solara 23 contributed to this post :beerdrinking:)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hope everyone had a Great Thanksgiving! Had my dad in town, and we went tooling around in the Jeep and Tundra. Sadly the tundra got a sharp piece of rock into a tire on the Michy LXT2 ( I think) road tires... and it was unpluggable. So it went in to discount tire for a set. They were getting a little beat and were within a few months of getting done anyway. While there, they mentioned a black friday sale and they had the KM3's on display... ugh.... so yeah. that happened too. An expensive week...:pullinghair: but my rubber needs for my rides are handled now! Its up on jacks because my springs are so flat there was no way I could lower it down as is... so now it's a fiscal race between wants and needs and savings. As I have to stare at this kick ass set of 33's chilling in the garage till I get the Lift/SYE/Gear set/F8.8/Shaft and all the other bits to make things go... ugh. I just need to be independently wealthy now so I can just DO all this stuff and have the time to enjoy it. Blah. Oh, well. Things are moving along... Pics!
 

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Glad to see another Arizonan out here on the Jeep forum! And even happier to see someone learning the Jeep ways.

I think you've got a solid game plan for what you want out of your Jeep. Mine is built very similarly to what you are wanting out of your YJ. I agree with PC1P that running 35's on a stock Dana 30 is NOT a good idea. I'm sure PC1P remembers eons ago when he was lifting his, I advised that 33's are really the best all around tire for any offroad rig/ daily driver. I have a buddy with a YJ on 35's and he's constantly breaking axles in the poor D30. Stick with the 33's you want and when you want to go to 35's do a spring over axle lift as DaddyJeep suggested and a D44 and you'll be all set.

As for the rear axle, the Ford 8.8 is the way to go. It's a very easy swap that can be done very cheaply. Some of the later model explorers have a limited slip differential from the factory, which could save you some money since you wouldn't need to buy one! Make sure you get one with disc brakes, as the early models had drums. When you do your swap make sure you take the driveshaft angles with a double cardon CV joint and SYE into account. I personally run an Adam's driveshaft with my 8.8 and have no had any issues.

As for the track bars, I can confidently say that you do NOT need them. They are not needed with a leaf sprung solid front axle. The leaf springs do a fantastic job in keeping the axle in place as long as the u-bolts are tight. I personally have my track bars removed and my YJ drives great.

As the others suggested most of the things you want to do need to be done at one time. The 4.5" lift, the 8.8 swap, SYE & double cardon driveshaft all need to be done at the same time. Gather the parts, build your rear axle (other than the leaf spring mounts) and get mentally prepared for a large project in front of you. Do the SYE & new driveshaft first. Then install the front portion of your lift kit. Once that's done, prepare for the 8.8 swap.

I like your plans for the Jeep and if you need any help this forum is great! If you want to see how one built very similarly drives and feels let me know! That might help point you in the right direction.

Good luck, and welcome to the forum!
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Just a quick spin through my area here... I really need some better springs was bouncing the heck out of those dang bump stops. Gotta get that 2.5" RE lift. Just got greasable shackles and Fender flares. I'll prolly wait until the lift and shocks are ready before doing all that stuffs. I'll run the lift, and then go to the SYE, F8.8, and a Chromoly TJ solid shaft, for the D30 up front.

 

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^ Solid plan you have YJ94S
 
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