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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Nice build, I really like how you did the long travel shock mounts with the ford towers. If you make control arms with JJ's or similar on both ends you will be over the 100 limit. 40 per end, 10 per threaded insert and around 20 for the tube. I like your rear axle shock mounts too. I got some 4" wide 3/16" steel plate that could me made into those.

I'm planning on doing the high line with my tube fenders too. How are you going to measure for the cutout of the rear. May be a good idea to ask someone with genright hi-line fenders how much they cut off. That way later if you want fenders in the rear you can buy those to put on. Or if you cut to much out getting corner guards should cover it back up nicely. Also are you planning on covering up the gap that was made when you moved the fenders up? I think I will just try to extend the rocker guards out and box in that section.

Also do you care to give the length or model of shocks you used. Would like to see how much travel you gained doing that.

I have the same amount of travel as a 4" lifted jeep now, and feel much more stable while flex'n. I have roughly 9.5" of usable travel the shocks will keep going but my stock CAs, brake lines, and stock springs won't allow them to extended any longer. I use the Rancho 9000's, I don't remember the part number but they are the 15" travel shocks.. RS99036 maybe.. I went with those shocks cause I got them NEW for $50 each, plus when the time comes I can tie the shock towers into the cage for more support and add air shocks


I'd like to know as much about those long travels as possible. I'd like to do that when I lift but I wouldn't know the first place to start. I'm going to run OME 2.5" springs and currie arms all the way around and I feel like the shocks are really gonna hold me back on flex. Thanks for any advice
I have 2" lift springs that I've installed for a few minutes to see if I like the ride/height, I ended up take'n them back off, but even with those springs I still don't come close to over extending or over compressing the shocks. If you are going to run a lift and upgrade your shocks how I have done look into CAs, longer brake lines, limiting straps, coil spring retainers (i have on the front still need to make for the rear) Adj. front and rear trac bar(mine needed them with a 2" lift most jeeps don't) if you have any questions feel free to ask I have LOTS of pictures many more than I posted.
 

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97flexy said:
I have 2" lift springs that I've installed for a few minutes to see if I like the ride/height, I ended up take'n them back off, but even with those springs I still don't come close to over extending or over compressing the shocks. If you are going to run a lift and upgrade your shocks how I have done look into CAs, longer brake lines, limiting straps, coil spring retainers (i have on the front still need to make for the rear) Adj. front and rear trac bar(mine needed them with a 2" lift most jeeps don't) if you have any questions feel free to ask I have LOTS of pictures many more than I posted.
I plan on running currie arms all the way around and I already have an adjustable rear, just uninstalled. I was most curious about where and how you decided to place the new mounts for the shocks and if you bought or fabricated the new mounts.
 

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Just for your info. There are some easy ways of extending your available axle droop. For brake lines, you could just drill and tap a hole a couple inches lower for the brake line mount on the frame. Also there are some lines that will bolt right up that are out of different vehicles. I believe mine are from a 90's Chevy truck. Front and rear are at least 5" longer.

For a cheap limiting strap use old seatbelts. Mount one side on the axle side shock mount bolt and drill and tap for a bolt on the frame.

Replacing the stock track bar with a frame side double shear design(how the axle side mounts) will improve axle droop. Mounted with a vertical stud limits down travel to some degree. Even the Currie and JKS track bars still mount this way, they give you more travel over stock but will still bind.
 

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I was most curious about where and how you decided to place the new mounts for the shocks and if you bought or fabricated the new mounts.
Ford shock towers for I believe a F250. Part# e5tz-18183-a

About 25 a piece
 

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TheTJRod said:
Just for your info. There are some easy ways of extending your available axle droop. For brake lines, you could just drill and tap a hole a couple inches lower for the brake line mount on the frame. Also there are some lines that will bolt right up that are out of different vehicles. I believe mine are from a 90's Chevy truck. Front and rear are at least 5" longer.

For a cheap limiting strap use old seatbelts. Mount one side on the axle side shock mount bolt and drill and tap for a bolt on the frame.

Replacing the stock track bar with a frame side double shear design(how the axle side mounts) will improve axle droop. Mounted with a vertical stud limits down travel to some degree. Even the Currie and JKS track bars still mount this way, they give you more travel over stock but will still bind.
What type of track bar mounting are you talking about? I haven't heard of it
 

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97wrangler-242 said:
What type of track bar mounting are you talking about? I haven't heard of it
Having the mount this way allows the link to rotate on the bolt instead of flexing and binding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Would that b at the local auto parts store or from ford directly? Do you just notch the frame and weld them in?
you need to get them thru ford I bought in pairs got both for 20 n some change include'n tax. The rear you need to notch the frame the front you need to cut the top of the shock tower off and beat them into the factory shock tower.
 

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TheTJRod said:
Having the mount this way allows the link to rotate on the bolt instead of flexing and binding.
I think I'm just having a difficult time seeing the axle side mount from this picture. My only access to WF is an iPhone so the pictures aren't huge :(

97flexy said:
you need to get them thru ford I bought in pairs got both for 20 n some change include'n tax. The rear you need to notch the frame the front you need to cut the top of the shock tower off and beat them into the factory shock tower.
Well I will subscribe and use this information when I go to do my lift. What do you tell the ford dealership when you order the shock towers? Like year make and model? And for the rear, could you get some more pictures of that? Thanks again :)
 

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Well, picture the way the track bar mounts on the frame side. It is a tie rod with the stud pointing straight up. Once the axle drops down the tie rod will bind and keep the axle from dropping any lower. If you change the mount to have it bolt running horizontal front to back, just like how it mount on the axle side. The track bar will pivot on the bolts and never bind.

When you go to the Ford dealership give them the part number. Don't give them the chance to order the wrong part. If they need one say 1980 F250 front shock tower.

If you do a search for "wrangler outboard shocks" you should get some ideas. Also there is a write-up on stu-offroad.com

This mod requires cutting the frame and welding. If your not comfortable doing it you shouldn't.

 

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TheTJRod said:
Well, picture the way the track bar mounts on the frame side. It is a tie rod with the stud pointing straight up. Once the axle drops down the tie rod will bind and keep the axle from dropping any lower. If you change the mount to have it bolt running horizontal front to back, just like how it mount on the axle side. The track bar will pivot on the bolts and never bind.

When you go to the Ford dealership give them the part number. Don't give them the chance to order the wrong part. If they need one say 1980 F250 front shock tower.

If you do a search for "wrangler outboard shocks" you should get some ideas. Also there is a write-up on stu-offroad.com

This mod requires cutting the frame and welding. If your not comfortable doing it you shouldn't.
I would b comfortable doing that except I'm not a "skilled" welder. I can lay down a pretty bead and can make stuff stick together but I wouldn't want to weld up my own cage and put my self and 3 of my best friends lives on those welds haha. I have the mechanical know-how and I think this is something I will do a Lot more research on and plan on doing. Thank you for all the info
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
here is what we just built and tested.

both jeeps RTI you tube video.m4v - YouTube

After the wedding I will be tarring the jeep apart.
It will be getting a MML, TT, Lopro trans mount, D44 with locking hubs and a locker up front, SYE kit, new rear drive shaft, adjustable arms, new clutch, new radiator, new input shaft bearing and if I got any money left an 8.8 out back
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·


Where/how did you get your rear lights like that? It looks BA.
Harbor freight for $10 each and a 4" hole saw if you want slow blinkers you need a new flasher, depending on what flasher you have (4pin or 5pin) depends what flasher you need. my '97 uses a 4 pin, my friends 99 uses a 5 pin.

p.s. they are super bright!!, the only down fall is no reverse lights, but if you don't have tint you can just tap the brake pedal and that provides plenty of light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I just started my next jeep build, on my list will be, new front custom long arms, SYE, D44, battery relocation, install third seat, TT, clutch, and input bearing(pilot bearing), and radiator. Hopefully will be done in a month, We welded on two lower ballistic joint mounts on the frame, pulled the dshafts off the rear ends, and got most of the skid plate off(the nutserts are stripping in the frame). I'l continue to keep yal updated and I'l take pictures along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I only broke three sockets while working last night, including two impact sockets(one was a snap-on) the cheap one cracked down the side while the snap-on split in two, also bent a 3/4" double closed end wrench. Gotta go pick up more tools today, and time to cut the skid plate off. I'm not going to screw around with try'n to unbolt it anymore.
 
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