Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Howdy Folks,

I bought a 89 YJ for the sole purpose of selling it to make a profit. And then I started driving it, and before long, you know what happened...I got the addiction.

The Jeep is completely stock except for a 4" lift and an Eddie Bauer Explorer 8.8, it has all the carpet and the interior is near perfect with no rust, and here's the but...it has the anemic 2.5. I was almost content to drive it as is, but there is 195K on the engine and I began to get blow-back through the valve cover. So, the jeep made the decision for me, and I've been accumulating parts to do a V8 swap.

I will be using a 5.7 Vortec and going with a carb (Engine, intake and carb are already bought, along with bomb proof motor mounts).

700R4 arrived yesterday, and I will be using a NP-241C.

This will all be done in a commercial shop by a friend who quoted me $1000 for taking my engine out and putting in the V8, and this includes welding in the mounts and hooking up all the engine components. He will allow me to do work on all the other things it needs while its in the shop to save on price. Here are a few questions that I need help with, and keep in mind that I'm new to this forum, and actually, I'm new to forums in general, so be gentle :pc-ouch:

1. Fuel Pump. I thought of trying to use the factory in tank pump and just installing a regulator, but when I start getting low on gas, not empty, just low, the jeep starts to sputter. I can push the clutch in, and it revs fine, but it will not drive without skipping and sputters. Guy at the parts store said that my fuel pump is starting go out. What is the easiest or best solution? I know those are not always the same answer.
a. If I use a Holley in-line Fuel Pump, how do I get the gas gauge to work?
b. Should I replace the whole factory unit, and just install a regulator?
c. Please offer some ideas, and is there a post on installing a carb on a FI system?

2. Track Bar removal. Will the track bar need to be removed to make room for the Vortec oil pan?

3. Wiring. The Vortec/HEI wiring is as simple as it gets. What I would like to do is get rid of all wiring except the lights (turn signal/brakes etc), heater controls and wipers. Nothing else, but ignition and charging system. Has anyone done this and how hard is it? I know difficulty is a relative term.

Anyway, thanks for having an awesome place to get information.

JN
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
1.
Replace the in tank with a new oem and mount the regulator in the fire wall.

2.
Not sure, however you don’t need the track bar. On leaf spring vehicles the leaf packs keep the axle centered side to side. Also it will improve your ride.

3.
After cleaning up my factory wiring.


Cleaning up the wiring.


It is doable. It took me about 3 evenings to trace through everything and pull out the wires I needed. I did basically the same thing you are wanting to do. V6 with a carb. Just needed tach, alternator, thermo probe for e-fan and power to the choke and dizy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info Rawhide, and your wiring is exactly what I want mine to look like.

Does the YJ have a return line to the fuel tank?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
Yes,
Long story, but I started with a Mr Gasket $50 pump on the frame rail and had tons of problems. Burnt one out and the next one would just stop pumping then start again. A real pain.
So I went back to OEM and a regulator with return. The reason for the return is the OEM pump is designed to run with a return from the throttle body. It will keep the pump cooler and not work as hard also


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
Here is my rough wiring schismatic that I came up with if you want something to go off.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top