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Discussion Starter #1
1st came tail lights:
I had wanted a Military looking tail light set up for my 2015 JKU so I originally bought a set of Isee Military Style LED tail Lights from a forum member.

After a few minor issues I decided to make myself a non-LED set based on SuperDak's build thread. https://www.wranglerforum.com/f346/mojave-sandstorm-build-2167674.html#post31819002
I had toyed w/ this idea a few years ago before buying the iSee lights, but SuperDak's thread, and help, got me going.

I started w/ an OEM set of tail lights and removed the lenses.


Next a mounting plate:


I used Riv-nuts protruding outward to mount the new lens.


Drilled out the mounting holes on the lens so the Riv-nuts would fit inside.
The Black-out lenses were removed and replaced by 2 pieces of the OEM back-up light lens.
A divider was added to the mounting plate to help separate the back-up light and the tail/ turn signal light.


1st test fit.


Painted and mounted.


 

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Discussion Starter #2
Next up: Back-up lights

The problem with my version of the non-LED Mil tail lights was the back-up lights. I did not want to lose the Mil styling of the black-out lights. Therefore I needed auxiliary back-up lights. I found this video thru a thread on the forum and used it as my guide.
Biggest issue w/ the video is he does not give any measurements for placement... I will.
I used this wire harness from Q-Tech as well as these Hella Value-Fit flush mount lights.
https://www.quadratec.com/p/quadratec/back-light-harness-jeep-wrangler-jk
https://www.quadratec.com/p/hella/value-fit-cube-6-led-flush-mount-light

Measured and cut:


These lights come w/ a gasket which helped line things up. The top of the light flange sits 1/2" from the top of the bumper. The inner most edge of the flange is 11 1/2" in from the "crush area" on the bumper. Any lower or further out and the light would not fit as the bumper is molded for the steel frame to sit behind it. Check out the video and you will see what I mean. The openings are 83mm wide and 75mm tall approx.


In the video the builder used the supplied mounting hardware and drilled holes in the back side of the bumper to access the nuts. I did not want to mess w/ that so I had 2 ideas. My 1st thought was to add Rivnuts to the plastic bumper. Good thing I tried it on an old bumper section I cut off another bumper as the Rivnuts just wanted to spin. So on to my 2nd thought.


I added Rivnuts to a 3 1/2" by 1" piece of aluminum cut from a cheap yard stick. (Much cheaper than buying aluminum flat stock.) I held them in place for mounting w/ some butyl.


All mounted and ready for the Jeep.


Note: Once I added the Apollointech control center I ran wires so that these back-up lights can be turned on from the pod as well as being activated with the back-up light circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Time for control

Added an Apollointech Spod knock-off to control the upcoming projects.






 

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Discussion Starter #4
KC Hi-Lites under hood

Next I added the KC Hi-Lites under hood lighting kit. The kit uses their Cyclone LED lights.







Under hood switch.


These throw a ton of light and make working under the hood much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Rock-Lites

I started w/ a 4 piece light kit from KC Hi-Lites using their Cyclone LED lights. I have wired these lights so they can be set to turn on as courtesy lights as well as being controlled from the Apollintech pod.
All the wiring for the KC Hi-Lites Kit was run on top of the frame and wire tied to existing harnesses.





Then I added four more Cyclones. One in each wheel well and two out back using brackets from Rago.


Rago Fabrication:
KC HiLites Cyclone Light Mount
Not cheap but whose counting


The rear wheel well lights were mounted by drilling a hole in the liner and using these to hold them in place.

DIY wire harness. The rear wire harness was run thru the frame after being connected to the KC Hi-Lites kit which came with a connector for their rear two piece lighting kit.


Cyclones mounted to Rago brackets.



Wheel well.




Rear end.




Finished for now... fronts to come...


 
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Discussion Starter #7
Finally finished the front 4 Rock Lites

Finally finished the front 4 Rock Lites.

I never posted a pic of the switch placement that allows me to use the Rock Lites as Courtesy Lites.


I opened up the harness that came with the KC Hi-Lites kit that was used for the 4 original lights under the cab/ doors.


Made a harness that would allow me to connect the front Rock Lites to the full Rock Lite set up,


and soldered it in place.


I mounted the front/ bumper Rock Lites using these


cut down to this.

They are the same ones I used to mount the rear wheel well lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
continued...

I mounted the front/ bumper lights using existing mounting holes for my VDP High-Clearance bumper ends.




I made a front harness similar to the rear one but with much longer pigtails,


and ran them down behind each headlight to the wheel well area for connections.


The pig tails connected the bumper lights on each side.


 

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Discussion Starter #9
continued...

The wheel well lights were attached using existing bolts.




The harness pigtails for the wheel well lights were run behind the inner liners.

Finished...


I'll post a better pic of the entire set up lit up soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Rock Lite Pics



 

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Discussion Starter #11
Front Over-rider light bar

Best $.86 I ever spent. That's correct 86 cents. The lights are an Amazon special for $25.86 and I had a $25 gift card that I received from ordering a health care product.


I had to drill new holes on the mounting tabs.


Then ran the wires to the Apollointech control box.


I'm not crazy about the routing of the wires on the bar, but I think I will drill a hole and run the wires inside the bar when I have time.
The light output is adequate. A flood pattern with a center spot pattern. Not bad for the money. We will see how long it lasts.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
How many total rocklites are you running?
12 total. 1 on each end of the front bumper, 1 in each wheel well, 1 under each door and 2 at the back (1 on each end of the muffler, basically, mounted to the rear frame cross bar.)

Is the output adequate to wheel after dark?
I have not had the opportunity yet, but I would say most definitely based on what I've seen others run.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Continued from previous install:



I'm not crazy about the routing of the wires on the bar, but I think I will drill a hole and run the wires inside the bar when I have time.
The light output is adequate. A flood pattern with a center spot pattern. Not bad for the money. We will see how long it lasts.
So I had some time and rerouted my wires...
Cut the "harness" to add bullet connectors. I would have rather used a deutsch plug but the hole in the bar would have had to have been much larger.




Marked and drilled.




 
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Discussion Starter #16
Cont.

Wires thru tube required grinding the mount a bit.




Scratched the crap out the bar by not being careful so I'll either
a. replace the bar
b. paint it in the Spring
or
c. have it re-powder-coated
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I said I'd never do it, but

I said I'd never do it, but after my wife's '16 got a new set of headlights I could not resist. We both got a new set of Quadratec Premium Heated LED Projector Beam Headlights & I will be adding a set of LED Fog Lights when they arrive from backorder.
Nice New Years Day project.
Quadratec Premium Heated LED Projector Beam Headlights for 07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK & LED Fog Lights for 10-18 Jeep Wrangler JK with Factory Plastic Bumper

Stock light w/ grill removed for install.


Bulb removed and adjustment screws exposed for replacement.


All the attachment screws must be removed using a 15mm wrench on the lowers and a Torx T-15 driver for the top vertical adjustment screw.


The 5 o'clock screw on the passenger side and the 7 o'clock screw on the driver side were replaced w/ adjustable torx head screw to add horizontal adjustment w/o removing the headlight and grill each time.
The adjustable screws are Mopar 55078114AB and can be found thru local dealer for $2.85 each,

5 o'clock screw replaced and ready for new light.


One side done.


Driver side is a simple repeat just replace the 7 o'clock screw w/ adjustable instead.

Light from these is so much better than OEM crappola it's hard to believe I waited so long to do this mod. If not for my wife speaking up about hers sucking so bad I probably would have kept driving by candle light.

Why heated? We live just south of Chicago and usually get some pretty bad snow and freezes each Winter. Just got some snow today so we will see if the heating element keeps the lights ice-free.

I'll post a full frontal pic as soon as I get out to do it.
 
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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Quadratec LED Fog Lights

I ordered the
Quadratec LED Fog Lights Kit for 07-20 Jeep Wrangler JK & 18-20 Wrangler JL Sahara or Rubicon with Plastic Bumper

when I ordered my headlights. Unfortunately I did not read the fine print and failed to order the
Quadratec Fog Lamp Anti Flicker Pulse Width Modulator for 10-20 Jeep Wrangler JL & JK

With everything finally here I installed them today.
After removing the grill, filler plate and stock front air-dam I began removing the OEM fog lights.


The driver side was a challenge because of the vacuum pump.


A stubby screw driver did the trick but it did take more time than the passenger side.

Here's the Q-Tec fog w/ the anti-flicker harness in place.


Driver side in and harness zip tied.


Passenger side in and harness zip tied.


I will post pics of front end completely back together when weather clears a bit and I can back it out of garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
License Plate Relocate w/ Plate Light

The project has a light so I added it here..
I had relocated my license plate to my spare tire using the Tera-Flex Relocation kit, a stainless plate that I had cut from some scrap yard freebee sheet and a light from Amazon.

The problem w/ the Tera-Flex kit is that the license plate needs to be removed to take off the spare tire. So I redesigned things.

Parts List:
*Tera-Flex "Adapter nuts" from original kit
*12" x 8" Aluminum Plate off Amazon
*Stainless Button Head Bolts, nuts and washers (most are black oxide coated) from Albany County Fasteners
Light off Amazon (left over from last attempt)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031BKBQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1st attempt:


New aluminum plate drilled and ready.




Plate installed


On Jeep and ready for the road.




Plate will get painted w/ Seymour Black Bedliner Spray once the weather warms.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Plate Bracket Painted




 
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