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Discussion Starter #1
There are many P0520 threads, but I didnt see one with this issue, so I started this post.... I have been having sporadic dreaded-P0520 CEL issues. It seemed to go away for months during warmer weather, but a few weeks ago came back and stayed. My ScanGauge stayed pegged at an Oil Pressure (OPR) of 99.

So My son & I took on a rainy day challenge to change out the sensor, and do the spark plugs while we had access to them, even though the JK has 29Kmi on it.

All went well until the 'easy' part of removing the sensor itself. It wouldnt budge, easily, even with the special OPR sensor socket. Finally got it to budge, or so we thought, but what happened is the fitting the sensor screws into stripped out of the plastic oil cooler housing itself! UGH!

Off-vehicle, It took heating with a butane torch and a lot of torque in a vise to undo that fitting from the old sensor. No way No how that sensor could come off without stripping the fitting from the housing or breaking the housing itself

So now what?! Sunday on holiday weekend, Jeep all apart. I guess I have to get a new housing/oil-cooler assembly and do it all over again ! But to make the JK mobile on its own we rednecked it....

JB-weld metal-to-plastic super epoxy on the fitting and 'pressed' it back into the housing. It dried well, accepted the new sensor. JK re-assembled...

P0520 cleared and stayed off, OPR on the ScanGauge back to normal.

But I am worried about this 'fix' and will be watching OPR and oil levels like a hawk. Difficult to see any leaks if any. Wondering if anyone else has had this issue with the OPR sensor?
 

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I need to do mine, but I'm dreading it. I think this is the first time I have seen this specific issue. I hope it's an isolated case.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good luck. Its not THAT bad, just tedious, and hopefully you dont get a jackpot oil-cooler housing surprise. We dorked around with that sensor/fitting for a few hours. If not for that, first time through, doing the plugs as well would have taken ~4 hours. The $15 sensor socket is worth it IMO. Changing plugs is also good while you are in there and have access. I wish I knew oil cooler assy's were only ~$70, I would have probably just bought one, just as I may have to now anyway (grumble). ~100 miles on the JK since the feat, no codes, no oil level drops, no leaks, and the NGK iridiums seem to run very well. Oh - the other thing we did before JBwelding is to totally degrease/prime the inside of the plastic housing with nail polish remover.
 

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Good luck. Its not THAT bad, just tedious, and hopefully you dont get a jackpot oil-cooler housing surprise. We dorked around with that sensor/fitting for a few hours. If not for that, first time through, doing the plugs as well would have taken ~4 hours. The $15 sensor socket is worth it IMO. Changing plugs is also good while you are in there and have access. I wish I knew oil cooler assy's were only ~$70, I would have probably just bought one, just as I may have to now anyway (grumble). ~100 miles on the JK since the feat, no codes, no oil level drops, no leaks, and the NGK iridiums seem to run very well. Oh - the other thing we did before JBwelding is to totally degrease/prime the inside of the plastic housing with nail polish remover.
Yeah, I went ahead and ordered the socket, along with a gasket set and a set of plugs. I have 62k on mine, so I figured I might as well do those while in there. All my stuff should be here by the beginning of next week, so we'll see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
With 29K miles, are you not under warranty?

Sent from my badass Galaxy S8 Plus
although only at 29K, it was built late 2013, and is past the 36 month ticker. I have also 'heard' on other forums that some stealerships may decline to perform this under warranty, as Fiat only allows/pays them 1 hour labor and it takes at least 3 I would say.
 

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I've had to replace that sensor twice (myself in my garage). The first time I was out of the comprehensive warranty and the dealership said the powertrain warranty only covers lubricated parts (I argued there was oil in the sensor but no dice) - hence me doing it myself.

The hardest part is definitely removing the sensor itself as there's very little clearance to work. I ended up using vice grips both times as I didn't have any sockets or wrenches that would fit.

From the damage in those pictures, it makes you wonder if the factory didn't seriously over-torque it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I wanted to follow-up on this and not leave it a 'dangling thread'. I decided I could not rely on the JBweld fix to the fitting, and bought the full assembly 'kit' from the dealer, $90. I know you can get cheaper elsewhere, but it came complete with a filter, filter cap, gaskets as well as OPR and water temp sensors pre-installed. part is 68105583AF.
The JBweld technique was not leaking, and looked solid (pic below) but I have peace of mind at least. I also wonder if that fitting did not completely spin out, it may have been weakened anyway and may have given out at some point anyway.
Second time around it took a lot less time. About 3.5 hours (including dog breaks). Beware that for some ridiculous reason, the assembly attaches with 5 T-40s and NOT 8mm bolts like everything else (see in pic)! So you will need a T-40 reverse socket. Maybe a 1/4 12-pt would work for the torques involved, but I wasnt going to risk it.
Obviously, I changed the oil as part of the install. Hope this helps someone else out. Had I known, I would have done the whole assembly in the first place!
 

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Something to be said for having more money than brains (referring to myself)... I'm sure I would be off to the dealership to get such work done and just have to suck up that big repair bill.
 
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