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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After long debate and pouring over threads from various sources, I decided to go with a Koz front and Poly / Synergy rear sport cage kits. I like the idea of tubes for the a-pillar and wanted straight b to a pillar tubes that connect to the windshield. Koz was extremely helpful over the phone and is willing to customize their kits to my needs. The Poly rear looked as good as anything out there and was extremely cost effective. Everything is being shipped out this week, so hopefully I'll have the installation complete before the end of the month.
 

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Sounds good bro - Can't wait to see pics!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Still need to add the harness bar and finish coat, but the cage is 90% installed. Queation for those who use a full length a-pillar - did you cut away the corner to add a full bottom plate? The guys who installed mine only have two bolts and have the plate. I am thinking about cutting the sidewall going with a full bottom plate and tying the a-pillar to my rocker rails instead of the frame. Every frame tie in I have seen hand 2-3 inches below the rail, which I do not want to give up.





 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here is that area I am describing. Does everyone just cut away that panel to the right of the bar? It looks like it is welded to the floorboard and he side pane, so I am not exactly sure if it is needed or what it's going to look like if I cut it all away.

 

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Nice, job!

I'm not sure if I'm understanding your question but I don't think many weld the support only to the floorboard itself. The good cages I see extend that support down through the double-floor with a short piece of tube that is then welded to a frame support underneath.

Did you weld your top spreader bars far enough apart so you can install your CB/ham radios between them? That's what I did which made for a perfect place to secure a sheet of 1/8" aluminum to which I bolted my two radios to as below. That black foam is pipe insulation added as padding. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just edited post 4 above with a picture on what I'm describing. I currently have another plate sandwiching the double floor, but want a full 4-point plate and the ability to add a tube that goes from the a-pillar by my feet to my rocker panel instead if a frame tie in. The frame tie in gives up too much ground clearance.
 

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Here is that area I am describing. Does everyone just cut away that panel to the right of the bar? It looks like it is welded to the floorboard and he side pane, so I am not exactly sure if it is needed or what it's going to look like if I cut it all away.
When I had my custom cage installed, I did not cut away that area of the tub. Instead, I used larger floor plates which were positioned so as to not require cutting the tub in that spot. I just walked out to my Jeep so I could get a picture for you. This is a different angle since I was standing outside the passenger door, but I'm sure you can understand what I did. Sorry for the quality; iPhone + night time = lousy photo.



In case you're curious, here is what my cage looks like. I had it fabbed from scratch.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cool - thank you. That is exactly the information I was looking for. Did you sandwich the floor on the bottom with another plate?
 

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Did you sandwich the floor on the bottom with another plate?
No, I did not.

Be forewarned: if you do decide to sandwich the floor with another plate underneath, make sure the lower and upper plates are not the same size and shape. If you use identical plates, a rollover can easily cause these perfectly-sandwiched plates to simply punch a hole through your floor pan, compromising the cage's function.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I ended up welding in a lower a-pillar support bar that bolts through the rocker rails instead of a frame tie in. I also have another floor plate through bolted on the bottom of the under carriage. This should provide enough added strength for my needs without sacrificing any ground clearance.

 

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Nice, job!

I'm not sure if I'm understanding your question but I don't think many weld the support only to the floorboard itself. The good cages I see extend that support down through the double-floor with a short piece of tube that is then welded to a frame support underneath.

Did you weld your top spreader bars far enough apart so you can install your CB/ham radios between them? That's what I did which made for a perfect place to secure a sheet of 1/8" aluminum to which I bolted my two radios to as below. That black foam is pipe insulation added as padding. :)
Jerry, is that a gun light out of a Bradley turret i see in that pic?
 

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Sarge, that's exactly what I thought when I saw it. :thumb:

(We build/rebuild Bradleys where I work)
Yeah I'm in the Army and a Bradley mechanic. LOL at least we both are on the same track.
 

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I ended up welding in a lower a-pillar support bar that bolts through the rocker rails instead of a frame tie in. I also have another floor plate through bolted on the bottom of the under carriage. This should provide enough added strength for my needs without sacrificing any ground clearance.

I know this is a huge revival but I was wondering if you know is this a good substitute to frame tie ins?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No, it's not. I had it sandwiched to the botto. Then bbolted to the rocker rails. On top where that pictureyou show was also tied into the rocker rail. See post 8.
Traditional frame tie in's took away too much ground clearanc.
 

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No, it's not. I had it sandwiched to the botto. Then bbolted to the rocker rails. On top where that pictureyou show was also tied into the rocker rail. See post 8.
Traditional frame tie in's took away too much ground clearanc.
Would you recommend doing this or no ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
For a sport cage, it's a good way to go. If you are hard cor, tie it in to the frame. I flopped my Jeep and nothing budged.
 

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For a sport cage, it's a good way to go. If you are hard cor, tie it in to the frame. I flopped my Jeep and nothing budged.
Okay thanks ATX
 
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