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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted better sound but didn't want to fully dive into new amp installation and wiring. So I retained factory wiring and sub amplifier then:
Replaced factory head unit with an Alpine CDE-HD148BT -$200
Replaced front speakers with Kicker 40CS464 (w/crutchfield adapter) -$50
Replaced sound bar/pod speakers with Kicker 40CS54 -$60
Replaced sub with Kicker 40CWRT671 -$120

I am very happy with the results. You'll find all kinds of subwoofers that other folks have swapped to. The 40CWRT671 cost a bit more than most solutions, but its perfectly matched to the factory amp's output impedance and is a Dual Voice Coil sub just like the factory driver. It also has a mounting depth of 2-3/4" which fit the factory enclosure perfectly without shaving the internal plastics as others have had to do. I choose to outfit with Kicker because out of the reputable brands, these were the most sensitive speakers that fit with no modifications and were reasonably priced.

All in all with adapter harnesses, head mounting kit, etc., I spent right under $450 for head unit and 5 speakers. Very pleased with the result. The Alpine drives the front and rear speakers at 18Wrms max. I was concerned it wouldn't be enough, but it has plenty enough guts for me. The Kicker sub is a drastic improvement over stock.

I've got all decent components in play already if I want to add more amplification, but I simply do not need it.
 

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I used that same sub and was told the factory sub is 2 ohm and that I needed to wire it in a series configuration. How did you wire yours? Did you use both wire pairs or did you use one pair an wire it in series?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I used that same sub and was told the factory sub is 2 ohm and that I needed to wire it in a series configuration. How did you wire yours? Did you use both wire pairs or did you use one pair an wire it in series?
Audiogeek friend of mine told me that factory driver had 1.4ohm impedance per coil. I wired each coil to separate channels (connected 4 wires as the factory sub was wired).
 

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I wanted better sound but didn't want to fully dive into new amp installation and wiring. So I retained factory wiring and sub amplifier then:
Replaced factory head unit with an Alpine CDE-HD148BT -$200
Replaced front speakers with Kicker 40CS464 (w/crutchfield adapter) -$50
Replaced sound bar/pod speakers with Kicker 40CS54 -$60
Replaced sub with Kicker 40CWRT671 -$120

I am very happy with the results. You'll find all kinds of subwoofers that other folks have swapped to. The 40CWRT671 cost a bit more than most solutions, but its perfectly matched to the factory amp's output impedance and is a Dual Voice Coil sub just like the factory driver. It also has a mounting depth of 2-3/4" which fit the factory enclosure perfectly without shaving the internal plastics as others have had to do. I choose to outfit with Kicker because out of the reputable brands, these were the most sensitive speakers that fit with no modifications and were reasonably priced.

All in all with adapter harnesses, head mounting kit, etc., I spent right under $450 for head unit and 5 speakers. Very pleased with the result. The Alpine drives the front and rear speakers at 18Wrms max. I was concerned it wouldn't be enough, but it has plenty enough guts for me. The Kicker sub is a drastic improvement over stock.

I've got all decent components in play already if I want to add more amplification, but I simply do not need it.

:wavey:BayouCane...Nice:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you happen to check and see what that kicker had per coil?
Both coils on the Kicker measured 1.2ohms.

Did you have clearance issues? I had read someone's post elsewhere about having to shave the internal plastics even with the Kicker's slim 2-3/4" mounting depth. I did not have to mod the enclosure. I use weatherstripping when mounting subs, but I doubt that the 1/8" thickness of the compressed stripping made much of a difference. I suppose the enclosures could differ dimensionally.
 

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Both coils on the Kicker measured 1.2ohms.

Did you have clearance issues? I had read someone's post elsewhere about having to shave the internal plastics even with the Kicker's slim 2-3/4" mounting depth. I did not have to mod the enclosure. I use weatherstripping when mounting subs, but I doubt that the 1/8" thickness of the compressed stripping made much of a difference. I suppose the enclosures could differ dimensionally.
I did it just because I read about it. Don't think I actually needed to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Audiogeek friend of mine told me that factory driver had 1.4ohm impedance per coil...

Both coils on the Kicker measured 1.2ohms..
Just in case you were wondering where I got these figures from, my buddy has software called ARTA that measures speaker impedance. Didn't want anyone to read this thread and think that they could directly measure impedance with a multimeter, you'd just be measuring DC resistance, not impedance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update:
A fellow TJeeper here in NOLA ordered the same sub (Kicker 40CWRT671) for installation after he heard my setup. Went to mount it in the internal enclosure of the center console and it did not fit. His console has a deeper storage tray than mine and it interferes with the sub's basket/frame. Check your internal dimensions before ordering this sub.

BTW, he was so upset and ready for additional bass that he offered good cash for my console and sub so I jumped on it. Thinking about using a powered sub in the console and ditching the factory amp/enclosure. I really value the hidden console installation and it'll be tough to fit separate amp and enclosure in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
...Thinking about using a powered sub in the console and ditching the factory amp/enclosure. I really value the hidden console installation and it'll be tough to fit separate amp and enclosure in there.
Ordered a Kenwood KSC-SW11 powered sub for console installation. I plan to delete the old amp/driver enclosure and strap the KW in its place. Will post more once mounted, braced, and wired. Rectangular 8-1/4" x 5-1/4" driver. Very small enclosure (smaller footprint but slightly thicker than a ream of letter sized paper) 11"x7-1/2"x2-3/4". Sensitivity is advertised at 110dB inside of vehicle so I'm really curious about this sub's installed and finished sound.
 

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I got the ksc-sw11 a few weeks ago and installed it temporarily under the drivers seat. I'm pretty happy with the sound after not having bass for 8 years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I got the ksc-sw11 a few weeks ago and installed it temporarily under the drivers seat. I'm pretty happy with the sound after not having bass for 8 years.
Your profile mentions super comfy racing seats. Did you keep the OEM tilt and lift seat mounts? I haven't tried to cram the KSC-SW11 under there yet but it sure seems like it wont fit....
 

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Yes they're mounted on the stock brackets. Since my new seats don't have a tilt lever like the stock ones, I need to reach under and rotate the tube that the lever would rotate.

I've decided now the install is permanent. The sub sits lengthwise instead of across due to the narrow spacing of the mounts.
 

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Ordered a Kenwood KSC-SW11 powered sub for console installation. I plan to delete the old amp/driver enclosure and strap the KW in its place. Will post more once mounted, braced, and wired. Rectangular 8-1/4" x 5-1/4" driver. Very small enclosure (smaller footprint but slightly thicker than a ream of letter sized paper) 11"x7-1/2"x2-3/4". Sensitivity is advertised at 110dB inside of vehicle so I'm really curious about this sub's installed and finished sound.
Let us know how you like the kenwood. I just replaced all my speakers as well, except the sub. Looking for something a little better
 

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I've got all decent components in play already if I want to add more amplification, but I simply do not need it.
It looks like you have a nice system, but more amplitude isn't feasible with your setup. The front speakers are maxed out with the HU(HU-50RMS:FS-50RMS). The soundbar speakers can only take 25 more RMS. Any decent amp will blow those speakers. But, they are good with your current system. Although, you could still blow the front ones. Just keep your ears tuned for tearing sounds on those front speakers at high EQ'd volumes.
 
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