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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone,

Well I got myself into another project. I have a 95 YJ Wrangler



I bought her 2 years ago for $1400.00 and had a blast with her but hated the 4 banger Then........ the back perch on my front drivers side spring when through my chassis :eek::(

With that she sat in the driveway and I used my Cherokee ( I'll upload pics of her later 4.0 auto 31" mudders)

Well Boating and fishing is just about over here in NY and I have been missing my Wrangler so I figured I would find a frame and swap it out, THEN I had the while I am at it syndrome :banghead: I HATE that 4 cyl!!!!!!

Well I started looking for a frame, they were all 4-$600 then I found a rebuilt AX15 for sale from someone that was parting out their jeep, shot him an e-mail and asked how much for the rolling chassis transmission and all, he said Hum $700 I said sold!



I flat towed her home this past weekend :D The chassis is pretty solid , the only bad spot is by the shock mount and spring shackle on the passenger side. I figure my Miller 212 and some 3/16 steel and it will be better than new, I hope.

Well....... if you notice the boat in the background, I built a small block Chevy 383 for her and ran enjoyed her this summer. Well I figured who needs 400hp and go 65+ on the ocean in a 22' 4000# cuddy cabin for fishing?

Seeing that boat cams and truck cams are real close, I thought buy the roller and convert it with the 383. That's where I am at now, the roller is home, cleaned, and ready to strip down. BUT,....... after some research I am now questioning the Dana 30 & 35 along with the AX15 and 231.

Before I start buying adapters I figured I would ask the question, what kind of power can they handle, should I go to 44's ford 9" chevy 12 bolt or Dana 60 instead? should I de-tune the 383 put junk heads on it to drop the hp?

I can weld, have a nice miller 212 Mig & a suitcase 220 dc stick , no problems making things fit. Been a mechanic my entire life, planes then cars ,big trucks now hvac I originally planned on having it complete by Dec1st, that's now out the window, I just want her right.

At 46 yo I want to have my YJ to the end, I am the last owner so I want her perfect!!!!!!

Anyone have any thoughts for the driveline? will the 30, 35 & AX 15 hold up?
What should I do.
 

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Nice project, good luck.

If it were me I would upgrade the front and rear axles. I'm sure somebody with more experience in V8 builds will chime in. I would definitely upgrade the rear to something heavier duty. The 231 tcase should be fine, along with the tranny I believe.

Once again, good luck.
 

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Alrighty amigo, heres the scoop...
1. Check out this website and read up. They also have excellent parts and customer service. I personally am dealing with them and love these people.... novak-adapt.com

2. The D35 would hold up if you could control yourself with a STOCK 350 a 350 stroked to a 383...well I guess it would be funny to watch the D35 to blow to pieces :flipoff: Tell me what tire size your planning on running as well and I can point you in the right direction.

3. The AX-15 transmission can hold up to 400 ftlbs. of torque and matched horsepower. So I don't know how long that will last since your really pushing it here.

4. Your np231j transfercase will be just fine with the swap. You can also upgrade literally just about every aspect of it if you wanted to have a bullet proof drivetrain.

5. Don't drop the HP the more the merrier :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey RSC,
Thanks, and I hope you are right about the trans and transfer case. I am sure I can find a HD rear laying around one of my racing buddies shops, its the front axle that I will have to Craigslist or flea-bay
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey YJ,

The engine turns 414hp @ 5k and 457ftlbs @2280 on the dyno. I built her for the boat BUT would rather have her in the YJ ( more fun time :D )

What would you recommend for axles, should I go for a 44 or a 8.8 in the front and a 9" in the rear or can I get away with Detroit lockers and new shafts?

If the trans is fine I will order the new bell tomorrow.... Hum.. thats another question I have, with all I have read the advanced adapters bell & toyota slave seems like the better $ wise choice, although it looks like it limits clutch choices. Going with the Novak I have to get a truck slave bell in addition to the conversion kit :confused:

I am at the point that I am afraid to order a lesser adapter and make a big $ mistake
 

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Thats a whole lot of power to be putting through that ax15 I'd look at upgrading the tranny. That ax15 may last for a bit but it WILL eventually pop ecspecially if your right foot has a intimate relationship with that skinny pedal. A 8.8 rear and D44 upfront would do it for you as long as your not going to go over 35's but with that amount of power id get some beefy shafts in those axles and truss them as well. A detroit locker would be great in the rear. They're supposed to have excellent road manners but make driving in snow a little iffy at times. I'd go with a detroit locker in the rear and a detroit trutrac (LSD) upfront since your in ny and will be driving in some snow. A locker in the front would not be good in snow at all.
 

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Another question is how much wheeling do you want to do with it. It may be a smart choice to go with a automatic if you are going to be doing a lot of wheeling. I'm going with a 700r4 myself.
 

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Hvac... Where in NY are you located??
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Another question is how much wheeling do you want to do with it. It may be a smart choice to go with a automatic if you are going to be doing a lot of wheeling. I'm going with a 700r4 myself.
The HP and torque #'s I gave you were on the Dyno with open headers, it was a boat, no mufflers or cat. Add that I will probably loose 30+ HP and the same for torque

AUTOMATIC :eek: :banghead: Don't curse at me!!!! LOL JK . I was born and raised shifting learned to drive with a 3 on a tree 65 chevy c20 PU and that was all she wrote ...
All kidding aside we have 135 acres upstate on the side of a mountain. 100 of them are woods with logging roads that aside from my Jeeps I only travel with a D-8 dozzer Steep grades, logs across, mud bogs etc.. lots of real rough terrain. I use the house and property for my safety valve to stay sane.

I am lucky enough where I drive up on a whim and stay a week or 2 playing Grizzly Adams and am always there on weekends.

Doing a few searches here I see a ford 8.8 is recommended a lot, any reason not a 9" . I have built a lot of race cars dirt track, 1/4mi etc... but never a jeep. in the past, if it was not going to be a winters it was a 9" ford or a dana 60 cause they were pretty much bullet proof.

I don't mind spending the money as long as its not going to grenade on me in the middle of nowhere


Bill
 

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The HP and torque #'s I gave you were on the Dyno with open headers, it was a boat, no mufflers or cat. Add that I will probably loose 30+ HP and the same for torque

AUTOMATIC :eek: :banghead: Don't curse at me!!!! LOL JK . I was born and raised shifting learned to drive with a 3 on a tree 65 chevy c20 PU and that was all she wrote ...
All kidding aside we have 135 acres upstate on the side of a mountain. 100 of them are woods with logging roads that aside from my Jeeps I only travel with a D-8 dozzer Steep grades, logs across, mud bogs etc.. lots of real rough terrain. I use the house and property for my safety valve to stay sane.

I am lucky enough where I drive up on a whim and stay a week or 2 playing Grizzly Adams and am always there on weekends.

Doing a few searches here I see a ford 8.8 is recommended a lot, any reason not a 9" . I have built a lot of race cars dirt track, 1/4mi etc... but never a jeep. in the past, if it was not going to be a winters it was a 9" ford or a dana 60 cause they were pretty much bullet proof.

I don't mind spending the money as long as its not going to grenade on me in the middle of nowhere


Bill
If your set on stick go for it man. :flipoff: I love stick but figured that sinces ill be wheeling it being on and off the clutch would be a pain in the butt. The thing is uplifted is running a 8.8 in the back and D30 up front. I got the pleasure to meet up with him and check it out. Hes got some 35's on it too and if i remember correctly said hes sitting on 350 hp. And hes doing just fine. But if your going to be running some bigger tires and really beating the snot out of it a ford 9 inch dana 60 or 14 bolt may be the way to go for you. Ecspecially if you plan on a bigger tire then 35's like lets sayyyyyy 37s. Chime in uplifted if it sounds like im talking out of my ass. :rofl:
 

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Doing a few searches here I see a ford 8.8 is recommended a lot, any reason not a 9" . I have built a lot of race cars dirt track, 1/4mi etc... but never a jeep. in the past, if it was not going to be a winters it was a 9" ford or a dana 60 cause they were pretty much bullet proof.

Bill
I believe it's just the popularity of the 8.8" and the fact there a dime a dozen and the widths are almost dead on that make it such a common swap... Disc brakes and LSD's are icing on the cake...... The 9" is by far the superior axle though... I ran a prostreet Nova for 10 years with one..
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi All,

I am only going to be running the 31's/32's??? off the Cherokee for now, can't remember what I put on her .

Hey Uplifted,
you just proved, "Birds of a feather flock together"
I ran a super pro Mercury Montego with a 9" then a pro 67 camaro with a 4 link and a D60 for years before switching over to Dirt small block modified, where I ran a winters and a Bert transmission, Ahh the gold ol days.

Lots of what I do is not beating on the jeep, its running through the woods checking posted signs retrieving deer during hunting season etc.

This all started cause I was tired of dropping 2 gears on Wurtsboro hill on Rt 17 :redface: . Its annoying and embarrassing when a Hyundai passes you like you are standing still :eek::mad:

I started shopping for a frame and got into the While I am at it mode. Then I remembered the old commercial " I Could Have Had a V8 " and well, here I am.
 

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LOL... Yeah thats about what put the bug in me as well... Grew up building race cars so the only logical engine for my Jeep was a V8..:D Probably the best thing i did as i'm enjoying the hell out of it now... I'm running an AX-15 and a 231 Tcase and so far so good....
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hey Uplifted,
Maybe I will keep the AX15 & 231, just upgrade the axles and see how it goes

OK, time for the NEWBIE questions :)
What adapter did you go with for the tranny? I am thinking of using the advance adapters bell housing as well as their engine mounts.

I really want to set up the drive line before I drop the tub back on. Do all my welding etc then paint the chassis etc.... Did you have to move the engine forward to clear the firewall? I am not running a GM distributor, mine is a mallory unilite with a small cap. I had read somewhere that there are firewall clearance problems if you leave it in the stock locations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
OK, so now I have a dilemma :confused:

I started to strip the new chassis and get it ready for some minor welding repairs on the rear passenger side shackle area.

I started by pulling the engine and transmission out. While taking out the junk 4.0 ( the guy I bought it from said he snapped the crank) I just for kicks put a 3/4 wrench on the balancer bolt and turned the crank, I watched the flywheel turn :eek: , I the crank is NOT broken !!!!! I even jammed the flywheel to see if it was just hung up at the break, nope its solid.

NOW I only got the roller thinking that the engine was junk, now I am thinking it might just be a blown head gasket or something. As a result , do I still go ahead and spend the $3-4000 for the V8 swap or do I just rebuild the L6 put a set of headers on her and call it a day for maybe $1500-$1800??????

Grrrrrrrrr, it would have been easier it the engine was completely scrap metal :banghead: :mad:

Any and all thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated
 

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HVAC-Cruiser said:
OK, so now I have a dilemma :confused:

I started to strip the new chassis and get it ready for some minor welding repairs on the rear passenger side shackle area.

I started by pulling the engine and transmission out. While taking out the junk 4.0 ( the guy I bought it from said he snapped the crank) I just for kicks put a 3/4 wrench on the balancer bolt and turned the crank, I watched the flywheel turn :eek: , I the crank is NOT broken !!!!! I even jammed the flywheel to see if it was just hung up at the break, nope its solid.

NOW I only got the roller thinking that the engine was junk, now I am thinking it might just be a blown head gasket or something. As a result , do I still go ahead and spend the $3-4000 for the V8 swap or do I just rebuild the L6 put a set of headers on her and call it a day for maybe $1500-$1800??????

Grrrrrrrrr, it would have been easier it the engine was completely scrap metal :banghead: :mad:

Any and all thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated
Well for what its worth ive been reading the thread and feel that for what you want the rig for the straight six might be plenty. It just all depends how much money and time you want to invest right now.
 
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