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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Being new to the wrangler scene I'm completely lost. Nothing like my old ford. Lol. Anyway, I could use a bit of advice for anyone feeling generous.

1.) I'm in need of new tires. The current ones are 30/9.5/15. I'm wanting to step up to 33/12.50/15 with a 3in lift. Question is, what is easiest, cheapest way to get the 3in and what is a good all season tire with nice aggressive look? I need something that will perform well in rain, icy sludge, and solid ice but still be fairly comfortable on the highway.

2.) I threw a CEL the other day and my scanner says its a P0432. When I googled it, it appeared to be a sensor issue or possibly cats. Is there a way to troubleshoot this code without just throwing money at it? I'be already spent quite a bit just getting it driveable and as mentioned above, still gotta buy tires......and wheels. :)

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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What kind of jeep do u have? Engine, auto or manual tran? What kind of off roading are u planning on doing? A lot of take into account before telling u what lift u should get but tires BFG's are good quality tires just need to know more about what u plan on doing with ur jeep ?
 

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BFG A/T, Falken Wild Peaks, or Goodyear Duratracs.
 

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1. I really REALLY like the Goodyear Duratrac tires I have on my TJ. They handle great on wet roads so far...haven't had 'em on long enough to know how they do in snow & ice, but from what I hear, they do real good with that as well.

2. What year is your Jeep? If it's got the twin pre-cats, I'd swap the sensors just downstream of 'em and see if you get the same code. If so, you're probably in need of the down pipe that's got the little cats on 'em. Also, check to see if your manifold bolts/exhaust bolts near the cats are tight.
 

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for the 3" lift options: (worse to best)
1) 3" body lift (cheapest)- PLEASE DON'T CHOOSE THIS ROUTE !!
2) 2" Spacer lift with 1" BL - okay route aka 'Budget boost'
3) 2" coils w/ 1" BL - most ideal route for ride quality and performance but most pricey.

Remember that you will also need to buy new shocks with #2 and #3 and buy new friends with #1.
 

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A lot of folks go with a Combo lift... 3" springs and 1.25" body lift like Zone carries... not too badly priced and fits 33's quite well.

P0432 is a bad cat on BANK 2 ( just off the exhaust manifold to the rear... there are two... BANK 1 is front 3 cylinders, BANK 2 is rear 3 cylinders if you have the 4.0 ) it's part of the down pipe..... not cheap, but best prices are at Rock Auto. If you have the tools and fab skills, you can patch in a new pre-cat for about $100 or less, depending on which brand you buy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry guys, I guess alittle info about the Jeep woulda been helpful.

It's a 2003 Wrangler Sahara with the 4.0L

Also, another issue I've ran into is when I changed the water pump, I opened the drain plug (shoulda just pulled the lower radiator hose) and I think I blew out the o-ring on the plug. New drain plug is only $5, problem is at some point the radiator was replaced with a visteon radiator and the drain plug is completely different from the OEM one but I can't seem find a replacement one anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
P0432 is a bad cat on BANK 2 ( just off the exhaust manifold to the rear... there are two... BANK 1 is front 3 cylinders, BANK 2 is rear 3 cylinders if you have the 4.0 ) it's part of the down pipe..... not cheap, but best prices are at Rock Auto. If you have the tools and fab skills, you can patch in a new pre-cat for about $100 or less, depending on which brand you buy.
I do have a 4.0. So could I just have my exhaust shop weld in some new pre-cats and be good to go or should I go ahead and spring for a new down pipe? Also is there any reason I couldn't eliminate the pre-cats completely, install high flow primaries and some mil-eliminators?
 

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Welcome to the scene, Stout! I've only got just over a year under my belt, but I've learned so much through this forum.

Coincidentally, I finished up the same research and pulled the trigger on a lift, set of tires, and set of wheels just a few months ago. Here's a link to the tire thread I started back in late July.

As far as "cheapest," you get what you pay for. My mechanic took me through every step in the process and really opened my eyes to the fact that you don't want to go with cheap gear when you're talking about your suspension. He recommended Rubicon Express and Skyjacker.

That being said, though, the wheels and tires are going to get torn up, but they're much easier to replace than a cheap suspension system. I decided to get less expensive wheels and tires because, being new, I won't be bothered much if I destroy a tire or wheel. My mechanic agreed with my train of thought.

Eventually, I decided on 33x12.50 Goodyear DuraTrac tires, Black Rock Series 997 wheels, and a 3.5" Rubicon Express lift.

Here's a link to the before-and-after shots in another thread.

One final note: you're going to eventually want to replace your CV drive shaft. The deeper angle of the suspension will cause the stock drive shaft to make the Jeep vibrate a bit. Mine vibrates between 10 and 25 miles an hour during acceleration. Feels fine after that, though.

Sorry if this was so long-winded. :)
 

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Goodyear tires...only good for one year ;D jk I love em, I like the Goodyear Mt/R with Kevlar...can't go wrong with those tires and will handle close to anything, a little noisy but hey what's wrong with that??
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Welcome to the scene, Stout! I've only got just over a year under my belt, but I've learned so much through this forum.

Coincidentally, I finished up the same research and pulled the trigger on a lift, set of tires, and set of wheels just a few months ago. Here's a link to the tire thread I started back in late July.

As far as "cheapest," you get what you pay for. My mechanic took me through every step in the process and really opened my eyes to the fact that you don't want to go with cheap gear when you're talking about your suspension. He recommended Rubicon Express and Skyjacker.

That being said, though, the wheels and tires are going to get torn up, but they're much easier to replace than a cheap suspension system. I decided to get less expensive wheels and tires because, being new, I won't be bothered much if I destroy a tire or wheel. My mechanic agreed with my train of thought.

Eventually, I decided on 33x12.50 Goodyear DuraTrac tires, Black Rock Series 997 wheels, and a 3.5" Rubicon Express lift.

Here's a link to the before-and-after shots in another thread.

One final note: you're going to eventually want to replace your CV drive shaft. The deeper angle of the suspension will cause the stock drive shaft to make the Jeep vibrate a bit. Mine vibrates between 10 and 25 miles an hour during acceleration. Feels fine after that, though.

Sorry if this was so long-winded. :)

Dude, wow. Thanks for the links. Jeep looks great. Made a huge difference. What'd it all set you back if you don't mind me asking.

You guys are awesome btw. It seems the Goodyear Duratrac's are fairly popular. I'll be looking into these.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Goodyear tires...only good for one year ;D jk I love em, I like the Goodyear Mt/R with Kevlar...can't go wrong with those tires and will handle close to anything, a little noisy but hey what's wrong with that??
I've actually looked into these. They look amazing but are they really worth the money or will they actually only last a year? lol
 

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I do have a 4.0. So could I just have my exhaust shop weld in some new pre-cats and be good to go or should I go ahead and spring for a new down pipe? Also is there any reason I couldn't eliminate the pre-cats completely, install high flow primaries and some mil-eliminators?
Good luck on getting an exhaust shop to do that for under the price of a new downpipe.... it has to be removed and templates made to hold everything in place for the R&R....

Those two cats are the main emissions cats O2's before and after them.. you can't delete them and pass emissions legally.
 
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