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I have been going back and forth all day yesterday and today deciding on which tire/wheel package to get. I decided to go with the 16" wheels because the 15" wheels that I wanted didn't have enough backspace (3.3"). The wheels I am buying are the 16 x 8.5 with 4.5" backspace.(Level 8 Trackers)

Now I am thinking about going with the 315 x 75 x 16 Duratrac tires. These are 34.6 x 12.4 x16. Along with this, I will do a Teralflex BB 2.5" Lift with longer shocks. The DTD guy told me that it would work, also my dealer told me that it would work and the Teraflex website says that it will work.

I am getting the 2012 JKU with the 3.73 ratio. (Automatic). The dealer said that with the new 3.6 I would not need regearing.

Is there anything else, I should be concerned about going with this size tire. Down the line am I going to have problems. Or am I just well off going to a size 33 for now.

BTW: I am going to be using by Jeep mainly for DD and some minor trails here and there. No major rock climbing stuff. Going for the 35's for the aggressive looks.
 

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i have been going back and forth all day yesterday and today deciding on which tire/wheel package to get. I decided to go with the 16" wheels because the 15" wheels that i wanted didn't have enough backspace (3.3"). The wheels i am buying are the 16 x 8.5 with 4.5" backspace.(level 8 trackers)

now i am thinking about going with the 315 x 75 x 16 duratrac tires. These are 34.6 x 12.4 x16. Along with this, i will do a teralflex bb 2.5" lift with longer shocks. The dtd guy told me that it would work, also my dealer told me that it would work and the teraflex website says that it will work.

that's almost exactly what i got, wheels- and tires-wise. My rims are 16x8, and the tires are the 315/75r16 dt's. My lift is a 3" from full traction. The only problem i ran into is that, initially (while my jeep was still on a lift), it looked like the swaybar endlinks were gonna be too close to the tires. Once i got it back on the ground and was ready to start torquing all the bolts to spec, i realized that it would clear fine. However, i am gonna have to trim the pinch seams in front of the rear wheels before i wheel it.

i am getting the 2012 jku with the 3.73 ratio. (automatic). The dealer said that with the new 3.6 i would not need regearing.

same ratio i have, though mine is a manual. I'd advise you to drive it yourself, but i've noticed a lack of oomph in sixth gear, usually when trying to pass or when going up a long hill on the freeway. Around town it's perfect. I drive through mountains a lot, so i'm gonna regear...probably to 4.88. That's simply my preference, and what i feel i'd like after having driven it for a month without the lift and tires. Others on the forum will tell you that 3.73's are fine with their 35's. Up to you.

your mileage is gonna drop pretty significantly, as well. Think 15 city, 18 highway...if you drive like miss daisy. :d

is there anything else, i should be concerned about going with this size tire. Down the line am i going to have problems. Or am i just well off going to a size 33 for now.

one thing you should check on: If the shocks that come with the tf kit are 27.5" or longer (such as bilstein 5100's), you will eventually need to buy a new front ds. The stock one is too fat, and its boot sits directly over the exhaust pipe. If you disco your swaybars, it will hit the exhaust. Also, pushing 35's is a strain on your axle, and you might wanna look into getting a sleeve and gusset job.

btw: I am going to be using by jeep mainly for dd and some minor trails here and there. No major rock climbing stuff. Going for the 35's for the aggressive looks.

just read this last part. :facepalm: But i'm gonna leave all the stuff above cuz:
1. I spent 5 mins writing it.
2. Maybe someone else with your questions will benefit.

I'd recommend good ole 33's for you. For looks alone, i personally don't think it's worth getting 35's, a new ds, spending extra $ on the front axle, losing engine power and mileage, etc, etc.

Again, up to you. Jmo. :thumb:

A few pics of my jeep. I'd recommend looking at some others with the 33's. Personally, i think their jeep's look equally sweet. Mth has one. And esp, (though i think he might've gone with 35's, as well...not sure on that). And they're far less likely to run into some of the problems i listed above.


oops, almost forgot: With 35's you will need, at the least, an aftermarket tire carrier for the spare.

whatever you decide, have fun with it.
View attachment 86129

View attachment 86130

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Proud Wrangler Owner
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks a lot for your detailed reply - kbwolf.

I am going to sleep on it
 

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Thanks a lot for your detailed reply - kbwolf.

I am going to sleep on it
:thumb:

I see your dilemma, I really do. I caved, and went for the 35's, 3" lift, etc...but I sometimes have need for them in my job, as well. Also, I could afford it, and any problems that may accompany my decision later.

My advice can be boiled down to this: Be absolutely sure you know what you're getting into.

Personally, I don't regret a thing. :D
 

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Kbwwlolf, thanks for the good info for all.

I just had 35s and a four inch lift installed on my 2012 Rubi. The installer mentioned that I eventually should get a new front DS if I wheel it a lot. Is that primarily only for when I would disconnect the sway bars, or is there more to it than that?

Also, since I have the 44 on the front of my Rubi, does that mean that I do not need any axle work?

Do you recommend or condemn any particular rear bumper/tire-carrier options, such as Garvin or Smittybilt or any others?
 

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Kbwwlolf, thanks for the good info for all.

I just had 35s and a four inch lift installed on my 2012 Rubi. The installer mentioned that I eventually should get a new front DS if I wheel it a lot. Is that primarily only for when I would disconnect the sway bars, or is there more to it than that?

Also, since I have the 44 on the front of my Rubi, does that mean that I do not need any axle work?

Do you recommend or condemn any particular rear bumper/tire-carrier options, such as Garvin or Smittybilt or any others?
With a 4" lift I'd get a new front ds regardless, since with lifts of about 3" and more it puts the stock ds at a "fatal angle", that is, too great an angle for it to work properly (for very long). And yes, if you disco your swaybars your stock ds and exhaust will collide. Even WITH a new ds (I bought a 1310 JE Reel, but Tom Woods also makes an excellent one), your clearance will be very little. I removed a heat shield on my exhaust in the pic below, and you can still see how small the gap is (keep in mind that, in the pic, my Jeep is on a lift and the shocks are fully extended...so that's my clearance at full travel).

View attachment 86140

Next photo shows the old ds and the new. Notice the boot in the center of the old ds. That's what sits directly over the exhaust. When the two hit, the boot tears, the ds's grease runs out, and...ka-boom.

View attachment 86141

Your Dana 44 should be fine with 35's, provided you don't, say, race over 3' high moguls at high speed or something. :D It's the Dana 30 in the other models that's weak.

As for bumper / tire carrier combos, that's pretty subjective. And none of them are cheap. You can also go with something like the OR-FAB tire carrier, which is independent of the bumper, and mounts using the hinge pins on the Jeep tailgate itself. You do have to drill your Jeep to mount it, though. Other than that, I've heard they're awesome...
 

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Thanks again kbwwlolf.

How long should it take a good installer to swap out the drive shaft once he has it in hand?
Two hours, maybe? Actually, probably not even that. I'm kinda guessing...we took mine out one evening, then had issues with the clearance of my tires and new rear swaybar endlinks, so didn't install the new ds till the next morning, after working out the swaybar problem. Also, we were putting on my lift, new tires and wheels, etc, all in one shot, so everything was kinda just hanging when we started on the ds.

You might wanna check with JE Reel or Tom Woods directly in regard to what size ds to get. Mine is a 1310 (standard OE) for my 4-dr manual, and is recommended by JER for lifts up to 3" and 33" tires. However, the guys at Full Traction said it'd be more than enough for 3" and 35's with their lift.

The 1350 size (again, JER...don't know about Tom Woods) is recommended for up to 6" lifts and 37" tires. It's about $200 more than the 1310.
 

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Two hours, maybe? Actually, probably not even that. I'm kinda guessing...we took mine out one evening, then had issues with the clearance of my tires and new rear swaybar endlinks, so didn't install the new ds till the next morning, after working out the swaybar problem. Also, we were putting on my lift, new tires and wheels, etc, all in one shot, so everything was kinda just hanging when we started on the ds.

You might wanna check with JE Reel or Tom Woods directly in regard to what size ds to get. Mine is a 1310 (standard OE) for my 4-dr manual, and is recommended by JER for lifts up to 3" and 33" tires. However, the guys at Full Traction said it'd be more than enough for 3" and 35's with their lift.

The 1350 size (again, JER...don't know about Tom Woods) is recommended for up to 6" lifts and 37" tires. It's about $200 more than the 1310.
Thanks again kbwwolf. The JE Reel website says that the 1310 is good up to a 3" LK, and the 1350 is good up to a 6". So I assume I want a 1350, b ut I will confirm.

Okay, I assume it's going to take a few days to get one and get it on. Am I likely okay driving around town for a week or so until I get it on?
 

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Thanks again kbwwolf. The JE Reel website says that the 1310 is good up to a 3" LK, and the 1350 is good up to a 6". So I assume I want a 1350, b ut I will confirm.

Okay, I assume it's going to take a few days to get one and get it on. Am I likely okay driving around town for a week or so until I get it on?
You should be fine. In fact, there are guys on another forum who routinely advise folks to drive their Jeeps till they discover grease striping the undercarriage (from the torn boot), then replace the ds before it dries out completely and seizes.

Ahh, the wisdom of youth...:D
 

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going with the 315 x 75 x 16 Duratrac tires.
Something I didn't see mentioned, these 16's are Load Range E. That's pretty stiff for a Wrangler. If you move up the the 17's, they are load range D, which is what I did. Air'd down from max pressure, the D range isn't as stiff, but livable.

Just something to consider.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for all the replies fellas.

Decided to go with the 285's (285 x 75 x 16) for now. Don't want the extra headache at this point. The next time around when I am ready for new tires, I will evaluate my options. Regarding the Load Range "E". At this point, it is what it is. I didn't want to go 17's as I wanted the thick tire look.
 

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Thanks for all the replies fellas.

Decided to go with the 285's (285 x 75 x 16) for now. Don't want the extra headache at this point. The next time around when I am ready for new tires, I will evaluate my options. Regarding the Load Range "E". At this point, it is what it is. I didn't want to go 17's as I wanted the thick tire look.
The DuraTracs in that size come with white lettering on the sidewalls...make sure you tell the tire shop whether you want the white side in or out, if they don't ask...and you have a preference. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The DuraTracs in that size come with white lettering on the sidewalls...make sure you tell the tire shop whether you want the white side in or out, if they don't ask...and you have a preference. :D

Thanks for the heads up. I already did. Blackout Baby! :thumb:
 
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