Im buying a YJ and was wondering what it would take to put 38x16 TSL.Im new to this so any help would be appreciated,such as suspension lift,axel upgrade etc.Thx,Mud is my objective,good ole new orleans is a mud hole
welcome. what are you planning on doing. rock climbing and trails, or just muddin? sounds like you wanna get pretty serious, either way you need bigger axles. lots of driveline modification. you're gonna want around 8" of lift min. i think off the top of my head, if you want to flex up nice.
spring over axle w/ bigger springs is minimum. if you've got money to spend coil suspension is great. cheaper and easier way to get the extra lift after spring over is body lift. i don't like doing it cuz i don't like how it looks, and yj body mounts aren't that strong in most cases. don't consider more than 2" of body lift.
Well for starters
*SOA will be must if you want to fit 38's with probably 3.5" spring around 8"-9" of lift (just guessing)
*Definetly will be looking at the least d44 front and rear but D60's would be better
*To spin 38's in the mud you will be needing a V8 in my opinion
* With a V8 you need a new trans and depending on the Hp of the V8 a T-case too. not to mention new drive shafts and a SYE
So basically in my opinion get a YJ that does not even run and completely rebuild it from the axles up. For me that would be the only way to build a functional mudder YJ on 38's
i lifted my jeep enough to fit 33s to start out, new is the current process of dropping in stronger axles.. then finishing the lift of, then engine mods, then a custom lift and 1-tons one day..
on my tj im gonna stuff 36'' iroks (the biggest tire i recommend for a stock wheelbase) using 3.5-4'' suspension lift, 1.25'' body lift, and tube fenders front and rear..
on yjs im not sure how much lift you need.. heck coyote runs a foot of lift with 38s.. hes got plenty of room for 40s but bought 35s for his next set because of money being tight these days..
for 38s i recommend running 3/4 to 1 ton axles.. the reason im staying with 36s are keeping the stock wheelbase, running a short arm lift instead of a long arm lift, and the axles im running will be able to handle them (hp dana 30 front and dana 44 rear)
you dont have to worry about a short or long arm lift since your jeep uses leaf springs..
i recommend running a 2.5-3.5 leaf spring lift.. adding a jks 1.25'' body lift with mml.. then start building you up some 1-tons to do a SOA on.. when you go to put the new axles in keep the current lift and you'll net an extra 5'' on top of the leaf springs you'd put on originally using to lift your jeep (say you use a 3.5'' leaf spring lift, 1.25'' bl, and 5'' from the soa, you'll be running 9.75 '' of lift which should be more than enough to stuff 38s under.. but imo id rather keep a LOW COG
I am running 38x16x15 TSL's now. I can tell you what I'm running and what it looks like so you know.
My jeep in this picture is SOA, 1.5" body lift, and 1" shackle. SYE with 4WDH CV shaft.
In this picture it is SOA, 3" lift springs, 1.5" body lift, and 1" shackle. SYE with 4WDH CV shaft.
And in this picture(how mine looks now) it is the same as the last except the body lift is 2.5 instead of 1.5". SYE with Tom Woods CV shaft. The 4WDH just wasn't cuttin it any more. The extra BL was to accommodate the tummy tuck. Otherwise I wouldn't have added it.
A forum community dedicated to Jeep Wrangler owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about reviews, performance, trail riding, gear, suspension, tires, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, for all JL, JT, JK, TJ, YJ, and CJ models!