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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a problem...Trying to remove my skid plates to start the SYE install.

The small skid under the tranny pan. The one with the crossmember in front of the belly pan. The large bolts under the crossmember, same size as the belly pan bolts, will not come out. Seems the threaded boss in the frame is spinning on both sides.

What can I do? There is no hole in frame to get something in there to hold them while I loosen the bolts. The driver side unthreaded about a half inch enough for me to see it spinning.

I feel I'm SOL right now

Let me know if I can answer any questions in order to get help.
 

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If you have any room between the skid plate and the frame, you might trying getting a sawzall in the crack and cut the bolts. If that doesn't work, they may need cutting off with a cutting torch. good luck, that's the pits.
 

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got mine off by using an impact, it must've caught it somehow because I was in the same boat. didn't get it all the way off, but it got far enough to where I could cut it with a buzz wheel. i'm running with 4 out of 6 installed right now, so i'm actually working on that fix. considering you might be in need of a new nutsert, does anyone know where we can find cheap threaded nut inserts?
 

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If they aren't badly rusted, you can sometimes get the bolts out by wedging a pry bar between the frame and skid, to put a lot of pressure on the bolt and nutsert. Then use an impact wrench on the bolt to spin it out.
 

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When I first dropped my skid, both rear nutsert threads were stripped, not spinning just stripped and the PO had fished regular nuts and washers inside and tightened them. Many times you can get away with tightening nuts without holding them, and this is what they did, but it is usually impossible to remove them. I used my cutoff wheel to remove them. I was tempted to repeat what they did but decided on a different route. I got a long drill bit and 1/2" x 5 or 6" ( I forget which so it is best to measure for what you need) Grade 8 nuts and bolts. I drilled from the bottom through the nutserts, and the top of the frame, added a piece of heavy duty angle on top for some additional strength and bolted it all together Now I never need to worry regardless of what happens. Eventually I may go back in and weld the angle in place.

My question are there any disadvantages to this approach? I did not want to mess with the nutserts since it seems they are prone to fail, and I could get all I needed from Lowes with no additional special tools
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If they aren't badly rusted, you can sometimes get the bolts out by wedging a pry bar between the frame and skid, to put a lot of pressure on the bolt and nutsert. Then use an impact wrench on the bolt to spin it out.
This is what I did to remove them. Finally removed it. Not going to use it again. Looks like I'm going with the UCF engine skid that doesn't bolt up to the frame.
 

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I tried to install the UCF engine skid on my Factory transfer case skid. It didnt line up well and hit the transmission pan. Ended up getting their stock height transfer case skid to go with it. Now everything works well
 
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