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:confused: I'm new to this and have a ? about A dana 35 axle. I'm running 33" tires with 3.73s. I want to put 4.56s in and a guy at a local shop told me if I were to put them in they would brake in a month. He said I should get a dana 44 w/4.56s instead. Is he talking out his a** or is this true. I'm in the woods like 15 times a year, But it's mostly 3 rated trails.:confused:
 

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regearing a d35 shouldn't break it.They want more of your $$$$:flipoff:
 

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Drives by Braille
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the gears wont break it, the tires and driver will. With 33's your starting to push the limits of the D35's strength.
 

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Hes correct in a way, a dana 35 is not a strong axle. its not the worst but its by no means a strong axle.

33s and a dana 35 will last if your easy on it and ytou hae a open carrier. Ive been doing it for a year with the same setup as you. and i wheel 1 or more times a month.

In your case i would recomend a super 35 kit. since your easy on it and only doin 3 rated trails.
 

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the problem here is too allow for the number of teeth on the gears they will have too be made smaller which decreases the strength of them. i've heard this before but have no personal expierence with it
 

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i ran my 35s with the dana 35 no problem, and i wheeled every weekend. U just got to know how to drive, and when to back out. When u feel the back hoppin, just stop.
 

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Like everyone said you should be ok, if you're light on the skinny pedal. Once you throw in a locker, you might have problems, however with a Super35 you'd be fine with 33's
 

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gears for a Dana 35 + labor + super 35 kit=$1400+
New Dana 44 with locker $2000
Don't waste money on a Dana 35. Get a D44, Ford 9" or 8.8 and never worry
 

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i say don't waste the money to regear the 35 when you may want to upgrade to a better axle down the road anyway...

i was looking at a "worst modification" thread on another board and "regearing the dana 35" was definitely on the list.
 

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The other issue is theat the higher the gear you go to, the more torque is applied. Therefore the stress to the axle increases which effectively increases the likelihood of breakage.

Like the others said, you can "make" it work and be extra careful, or just apply those funds to something bigger and better.
 

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I've been doing alot of research into this recently so here goes.
The guy at the shop is somewhat right. I've seen a Dana 35 sling an axle on the street with 33's and stock gears. I have also heard of some people running the D35 with 33's and larger tires and never break an axle. If you are going to do a super 35 kit, I would put a truss on the axle as well. D35 tubes flex quite a bit and, In my experience, put un-needed strain on the axles.

Heres a bolt in 8.8, Much cheaper to prep the axle and weld on the proper brackets yourself but this is ready for install. Bolt in is nice because if they are done correctly all you do is drop the old axle out and slide the new one in. The drive shafts will be different and lines/odds and ends might need different adapters but they are pretty easy to do in your own garage(I have never done an complete axle assembly swap on a Wrangler but Have done plenty on other rigs). Bolt in Dana 44's are about the same cost.

eBay Motors: Ford 8.8 Rear Axle For Jeep Wrangler TJ YJ (item 160081149450 end time May-02-07 17:06:48 PDT)

The cheapest super 35 kit I saw was about 800 dollars, but most are a grand at least. The gears for the locker are extra in most cases. I personally wouldn't lock the dana 35 even with a super 35 kit, and I've been told by people that have them that in different situations the Forged/alloy shafts are brittle and shatter rather then just break(I have no personal experience with these and it is only hear-say from people who have them). I think it was here in WF that I saw the post that convinced me to save up for a stronger axle instead of trying to build mine. It was on the lines of, "you can build and polish a turd, but in the end it is still just a turd". D35's are good for what they were designed for, Stock 4x4's with small tires. I would Hold out and save up for a D44 or an Ford 8.8. Thats just me and my 2 cents. If you decide to build the 35 I'm sure you will get plenty of info and help here from the members. You could also Get yourself a Ford 9", A Friend of mine did this in his YJ and I am pretty sure It only ran him about 800 dollars total, with a shop welding on all the needed brackets. Anyway. Your Jeep/Your Call. :D
 

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lol i gotta dude selling a complete bolt in 8.8 near me for only $800...theres no way i'd pay $1500...already has 4.10's and a lockright too.
 

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lol i gotta dude selling a complete bolt in 8.8 near me for only $800...theres no way i'd pay $1500...already has 4.10's and a lockright too.

:D Why do you think I am watching the boneyards, and am going to do the work myself. On the web I have found that if it goes in a Wrangler the price doubles and sometimes triples.:( 1 grand to 1500 seems to be the going rate around here also.
 

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changing gears

I have a 06 unlimited with 3.73 and a 2 1/2 old man emu lift with teraflex quick disconects - currently have 31" tires and would like to go to at least 32's - everyone tells me I should go to 4.10 if I do this - what is entailed - do I just change ring and pinion gears?
 

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3.73's should be fine on 32" tires... and only upgrading to 4.10's wouldn't warrant the cost as you'll more than likely upgrade your tires to something bigger later and have to regear again.

Yes - regearing includes the pinion and ring gear.
 

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you dont need to regear for that, there are people on this forum with 3.07's and 33's and say its okay, so dont worry at all!
 

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I am replacing the rear wheel bearings in my d35. Everything I have read says if you use a slide hammer the old bearings will pop right out. Can anyone tell me why I had to literally beat on each bearing for 4 hours and ended up breaking the old ones out. Olso I cant get the e brake arm in the drum to go back on the end of the cable. The spring doesnt want to pull back from the cable end.
 
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