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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 2016 unlimited and currently running 305/70r17's with a 2" spacer lift and spidertrax wheel spacers.
I'm planning on ripping the spacers out and going with a 4" lift and 37's.
What exactly do I need to do and/or buy in order to run 37's? Keep in mind im on stock axles etc etc. It's also mainly a daily driver but it does see some trails from time to time.
Thanks in advance guys!
 

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You can run 37's with a decent 2.5" lift and flat fenders. There are other aspects to address, gearing, axles, steering, but as far as lift goes a good 2.5" lift and flat fenders or the Mopar High Top fenders should work.
Going to 4" of lift brings more issues to the party than running 37's, however. It certainly can be done, but you might want to research it more before making that leap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm running smitty flats right now. So fenders and lift aren't an issue. As far axles, how long can you run 37s before they destroy the stock axles? Info on gearing and steering would be amazing as well
 

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Yeah, clearing 37's is pretty easy. It's all the upgrades related to running them that are the PITA and $$$.
 

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I have 2016 unlimited and currently running 305/70r17's with a 2" spacer lift and spidertrax wheel spacers.
I'm planning on ripping the spacers out and going with a 4" lift and 37's.
What exactly do I need to do and/or buy in order to run 37's? Keep in mind im on stock axles etc etc. It's also mainly a daily driver but it does see some trails from time to time.
Thanks in advance guys!
My opinion:
If you're a D30 front stay at a 35" or less
If you're a D44 front stay at 37" or less

Over 3" of lift and 37s crosses an invisible line for mods. Steering, gears and other aspects will need to be upgraded and you're looking at quite a bit more $ to do it correctly. IMO if you don't need the height of the 37 then stick with a 35.

What I did for 37s:
Complete Lift (control arms, etc)
Tires
Wheels
Tie Rod
Drag link
Ball Joints
Truss
Gussets
Axle shafts
Brakes
Gears
Unit bearings
Some of those items will continue to wear out since a D44 really isn't made to run a 37 w/o some items failing.

Good luck! :thumb:
 

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Depends on what 37's. I upgraded to KO2 37's (more on the smallish side, measuring at 35.5" @ 28 psi and on the lighter side). I still upgraded front axle mostly to properly handle the deeper gears (4.56 since turbo will be installed), pro steer ball joints, rcv axles, REID racing knuckles, YETI draglink, Dyntrac ProGrip brakes. No hydrosteer assist needed.
 

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D44vsD30.jpg

^^^Here is the main possible issue. The Pic on the left is the Dana 44, the right is the Dana 30, which you have.

So you can Re-gear (4:88), Truss, Gusset the C's, HD Steering Linkage and install HD Ball joints, but you will still have the Dana 30 weak link above..FYI

Some say I have done it with no problems so far..but their is always tomorrow.
Most of the experienced wheeler's will tell you their is a lot of risk in doing it.
But it's your call...

With 35's, your R&P should be O.K., within reason!
 
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View attachment 3678441

^^^Here is the main possible issue. The Pic on the left is the Dana 44, the right is the Dana 30, which you have.
True. R&P size difference is the only real advantage of the stock D44 to the stock D30.

One alternative: you can send your smaller D30 gears out to be cryogenically treated.

Cryogenics changes the metal, making it much less likely to develop fractures or cracks. The result is that after cryogenicallly treating your D30 gears, they will be very close to equal strength to that of the larger gears in the D44, according to places like Cryo Science in California.

The process is cheap, around $50 or so, plus shipping.
 

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I did:
Complete Lift (control arms, etc)
F&R track bars
Tires
Wheels
Tie Rod
Drag link
PSC XD Steering box
Truss F&R
Gussets
Axle shafts
Gears
Bigger Front rotors - 37's greatly decrease OEM stopping ability
 

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if you wanna spend 15K to run 37s you can. Or do a cheap as possible and repair as problems develop.
Well that's kind of a pain for the people you run with... as the break is usually in the worst possible place... but to each their own
 

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I would not personally run 37s on a D30 Axle. Are you in position to buy an aftermarket 44? What kind of trails do you do? 35s are a much safer bet on stock D30 axle.

What is your budget?
 
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if you wanna spend 15K to run 37s you can. Or do a cheap as possible and repair as problems develop.
This is not good advice.

Well that's kind of a pain for the people you run with... as the break is usually in the worst possible place... but to each their own
This.
 
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Upgrade Tie Rod, just had a serious case of Death Wobble, only 7k miles on Jeep, turned out to be Tie Rod, the only thing I didn't upgrade (upgraded to prorock 44, reverse drag link, knuckles, ball joints, rcv axle)
 
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