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Discussion Starter #1
I am new to building my Jeep JK, and I am about to pull the trigger and start working on my Jeep.
Jeep info, 2011 JK 2D sport Auto.
Parts I'm looking at getting.

1. Rubicon Express 2.5" Budget Boost Suspension System with Monotube Shocks
Rubicon Express 2.5" Budget Boost Suspension System with Monotube Shocks for 07-15 Jeep® Wrangler JK 2 Door - Quadratec
2. Rubicon Express OE Replacement Steering Stabilizer
3. JKS Manufacturing Front Adjustable Trackbar
4. TeraFlex 1/2" Front Coil Spacer
5. Superchips® F4 Flashpaq Programmer
6. Quadratec Moab Style Alloy Wheel
7. 33x12.50R17 Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ Radial Traditional Light Truck Tire

My Jeep is my DD and I go wheeling 3-4 times a year.
Most of my drive to work is on the high way.
(I have 3.75 front and rear gears.)
(The 1/2 front spacer is to help with the dip in the front.)

My question's are.
1. Is that a good set up?
2. Can I got higher without messing anything up? (Drive line, ect...)
3. Is this the right Superchip; will it give me the power I need to make up the loss for running 33s?
4. Do I need loner brake lines?
5. Do I need an intake?
6. Is there anything else I should need?

Any help will help, sorry if this has been asked before or and this is in the wrong part in the from.
Thanks,
 

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Your build has some parts you can probably dispense with such as:

2. The RE steering stabilizer - no need to replace unless the stock one is shot
3. The adjustable TB is overkill for a BB. The whole idea is to reduce cost
4. The BB already has spacers. Make sure the two different brand spacers will stack. I don't see a heavy bumper or winch so the factory coils will not sag. If you are referring to rake and the RE BB doesn't eliminate then go with a different brand BB.


The 2.5 lifts are designed to minimize the probability of premature wear on the driveline and joints. The higher you go the higher the probability so its up to you. The driveline depends on flex so if don't flex you should be OK with that lift but there are no guarantees. The brake lines are fine, if anything you need the relocation brackets to provide more slack. The programmer work well on the 3.8 but you are only going with 33s. There is no substitute for gearing and at least 4.10s would be better.Intakes are close to worthless when it comes to performance but they make a lot of noise so you might think your engine is more powerful. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responds.
So, your saying I don't need the front spacer?
And what 2.5 lift kit would y'all go with?
 

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Thanks for the responds. So, your saying I don't need the front spacer? And what 2.5 lift kit would y'all go with?
What he was saying... Do some more research on the lifts that people have installed and whether or not they eliminated the rake without having to add an additional spacer. The spacer may not be necessary and in turn, give you a reverse rake.

I think most on here would recommend Rock Krawler, Teraflex, or AEV. I've read good things about the Rancho Sport lift too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I was reading up on Rubicon Express lifts. And it looks like a lot of people say they will never get one or and never get one again.

Looks like I'll be getting the Teraflex 2.5 lift with a 1/2 front spacer to help with the rake.
 

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Well, I was reading up on Rubicon Express lifts. And it looks like a lot of people say they will never get one or and never get one again. Looks like I'll be getting the Teraflex 2.5 lift with a 1/2 front spacer to help with the rake.
Can't argue with that :D

RE gets a bad rap but has some awesome stuff coming out. (SEMA)
I believe the issues you're seeing are in the bushings/joints -control arms/track bars/etc) and there radius arms.
Not so much the coils. The shocks are re-branded 5100's which are good shocks.
 

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I think it has already been mentioned, but your speedo and tranny shift point will need to be recalibrated with the larger tires.

Most people use a Procal, or Superchips Flashcal, or superchips Flashpaq.

Personally, I bought the Flashcal because it had the screen where you can see what's going on, where the procal just uses dip switches. They are both about the same money. The Flashcal also give you the option to upgrade to a Flashpaq that will give you tuning options as well.
 

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:thumb:


I think it has already been mentioned, but your speedo and tranny shift point will need to be recalibrated with the larger tires. Most people use a Procal, or Superchips Flashcal, or superchips Flashpaq. Personally, I bought the Flashcal because it had the screen where you can see what's going on, where the procal just uses dip switches. They are both about the same money. The Flashcal also give you the option to upgrade to a Flashpaq that will give you tuning options as well.
Absolutely
 
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