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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I like where you're going with this I want an LS in my JK. I have a CJ7 and a 1970 C10 with LS engines, looks like its significantly harder and expensive to put them in a JK.
Haha.. Right! So it is easy to drop one in... Hard to keep emissions legal and everything working like factory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
So a quick update here.

Parts for the axles rolling in for the front Teraflex housing:
35 Spline ARB locker
RCV shafts
Motive 4.88 gears
Timken Master install kit
Teraflex axle seals
Adams driveshaft 1350 yoke.
YETI XD tie rod
YETI XD drag link with Griffin attenuator
YETI XD track bar
Falcon Nexus 2.2 stabilizer
Reusing my Teraflex high steer knuckles
Reusing my Timken Unit bearings

Bad news in the front is the YETI XD track bar is missing the adjuster sleeve (Which Steer Smarts is rushing to me) and the shop I ordered some of the parts from forgot to order my Dynatrac ball joints! Doooohhhhhh! So no biggie but looks like I won't be finishing up the assembly this weekend.

I am Keeping the factory Dana 44 in the rear but doing the following work to it:

35 spline ARB internals upgrade
G2 35 spline Gold Placer chromoly shafts
Already have 4.88 gearing
1350 Adams drive shaft yoke
Artec truss
Artec upper and lower control arm mounts
Artec raised track bar mount
Synergy coil spring perches.


My plan in the back is to strip the axle of all its brackets and weld all the new HD brackets and truss. I want to compensate for my lift and slight wheelbase stretch for the proper pinion angle and spring perch position so I don't have any more coil spring wrap with my slight stretch or any vibration out of my new driveshaft. The truss and all the 1/4" thick brackets I hope will add some strength to the rear housing too. I have friends that wheel the hell out of this stock housing with 37s and don't have any issues. I hope their luck extends to me.

I will get a couple pictures tomorrow to post but it is just a pile of parts temporarily.

Last thing, I am also planning on posting some videos on the front Axle build and the rear axle modifications. I would like to detail special tools, procedures and setting of pinion depth and backlash to achieve proper contact pattern. It will be the first time I video anything so that ought to be interesting but being a mechanical engineer it out to be incredibly over wordy and boring as hell but hopefully instructional. I'll post up some links when I get them together.

Till next time.....
 

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Parts are in the shop.. temps outside are starting to drop fast... will be starting the build very soon!
Definitely will be following your build, have been interested in doing a Hemi swap but quotes of $25-30k (5.7L vs 6.4L) turn key makes me second guess doing a motor swap. If the LS build is more wallet friendly then would much rather pursue that vs a supercharger install.

Is there much difference in the LS blocks (truck vs car) that made you choose one vs the other?
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Definitely will be following your build, have been interested in doing a Hemi swap but quotes of $25-30k (5.7L vs 6.4L) turn key makes me second guess doing a motor swap. If the LS build is more wallet friendly then would much rather pursue that vs a supercharger install.

Is there much difference in the LS blocks (truck vs car) that made you choose one vs the other?
You can use an engine out of a car or truck. I chose the 5.3 because they were about 1/2 the cost of the 6.2 for a nice low mileage takeout and I chose a truck engine/transmission so I didn't have to convert a 2WD transmission. Not hard to do but an extra expense.
Doing this myself and starting with a low mileage drivetrain that I do not intend to touch, my final cost should be well less than 1/2 of your low end quote for the Hemi.
I looked at and even drove a couple supercharged Jeeps and they were ok but needed to be up over 2800 - 3000 rpm before boost really kicked. Once the RPMs were up they took off but cruising down the highway the last thing I want to be is 500 rpm away from the power. My goal is to make my Jeep drive around at cruise RPM (2300 - 2500 @ 65 -70mph) much more pleasurable. I don't want to have to rev it over 3000 all the time. Supercharger would be less expensive but I don't think I would be as happy with the results. Plus a supercharged LS would be WAY better if I ever decided I needed more! Hahaha...
 

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So this showed up today. No it is not an LS related object but definitely a part of the build plan.
Rich,

Did you go with the Tera 44? I'm running their Tera44R 4+, great having the geometry right. These are built very well.

Love watching it take shape.


-Steven
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Rich,

Did you go with the Tera 44? I'm running their Tera44R 4+, great having the geometry right. These are built very well.

Love watching it take shape.


-Steven

Yes.. I wrote Pro Rock in one of my posts but I meant Teraflex Tera 44 housing. Must have been the drugs... Haha I also went with the 4+ with the 1/2" tubes. I did go with the non Rubicon housing because it gives you more options for aftermarket parts. Honestly though either one would have suited might need just fine.

Thanks for following along. I'm pretty excited about the whole thing.
 

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Yes.. I wrote Pro Rock in one of my posts but I meant Teraflex Tera 44 housing. Must have been the drugs... Haha I also went with the 4+ with the 1/2" tubes. I did go with the non Rubicon housing because it gives you more options for aftermarket parts. Honestly though either one would have suited might need just fine.

Thanks for following along. I'm pretty excited about the whole thing.
I went Tera 44R. I wanted the convenience of the OEM locker. When you see these up close, you know you made a good choice.


-Steven
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I went Tera 44R. I wanted the convenience of the OEM locker. When you see these up close, you know you made a good choice.


-Steven

I have no doubt that this housing will hold up to any abuse I give it. The 3.25 diameter tube and the castings are massive! My rear axle is jealous!
 

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Are you sure you want to do 4.88 gears?

The reason I ask is because I read where some that have done Hemi swaps had done 4.88 and 5.13 gears prior to swap and found they needed to re-gear to 4.11 or shorter after the swap. Is 4.88 advise from motech?

I don't know how the LS trans vs Hemi trans options differ in gearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Are you sure you want to do 4.88 gears?

The reason I ask is because I read where some that have done Hemi swaps had done 4.88 and 5.13 gears prior to swap and found they needed to re-gear to 4.11 or shorter after the swap. Is 4.88 advise from motech?

I don't know how the LS trans vs Hemi trans options differ in gearing.

Certainly a fair question and no Robbie did not necessarily recommend 4.88 but he knows I have them and didn't persuade me to change. Robbie is pretty good at making recommendations that'll make you happier in the end but that being said... The 6L80E has a low first gear and taller overdrive then I currently have so if anything it should drop my RPMs down a bit at highway speeds which would be fine.

After putting a few miles on her if I find I'm not happy I do my own gear swaps so it'll be minimal expense and a weekend in the garage to to change them up. I certainly hope I don't have to though.
 

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You're running 37s now right?

I'ld definitely like to hear your thoughts on the gear ratios once you're done.

I'm going to stick with 35s and keep on debating with myself on re-gearing going to 4.56 or 4.88s. Right now I'm leaning towards the 4.56 with the thought I'll eventually do a LS swap, where I would like to do it once with that end goal in mind and not have to re-gear after the LS swap.

It would seem if you find yourself happy with the 4.88s with 37s, then 4.56 may be better with 35s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
You're running 37s now right?

I'ld definitely like to hear your thoughts on the gear ratios once you're done.

I'm going to stick with 35s and keep on debating with myself on re-gearing going to 4.56 or 4.88s. Right now I'm leaning towards the 4.56 with the thought I'll eventually do a LS swap, where I would like to do it once with that end goal in mind and not have to re-gear after the LS swap.

It would seem if you find yourself happy with the 4.88s with 37s, then 4.56 may be better with 35s.

Yes, currently running 37" Nitto Mud Grapplers so they are fairly true to size. I have the 6sp manual and I find it a good compromise for trail and highway. I can cruise at 75 and still have
Plenty of take off in first to get rolling. I used to have 35 and ran 4.56 with those. Actually put in the 4.88 when I went to the 37's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Here is another quick update with no new information but a decision has been made to the start of this project.

The mild weather here is what has been keeping this project from launching. Normally around this time of year the cold has well set in and there is a wonderful layer of wet slushy snow and SALT on the roads. So far other than a couple cold mornings the weather has been hovering in the 50s.. To nice to put it away yet but... There is a toys for tots drive a local Jeep club is throwing here on the 16th or 17th. We are going to dress up the Jeep and make the run then into the garage it goes. Come he!! or high water I have to get started on this project. The longer I wait the more parts I buy... Haha

What else did I get..

Poison Spyder BFH II Rear crossmember with 2" receiver.
Poison Spyder rear BFH II high clearance bumper.
Lifetime LED 6" light bars (mount in bumper)
Tuffy security center console.

I have liked this rear bumper for awhile and this will be the perfect time to install it with the body off. Access to cut the frame, weld and paint will never be better. The bumper itself will be powdercoated satin black like everything else on the Jeep. This will add a lot of clearance and improve the departure angle a bit.
I decided that the extra security I would gain and the ability to mount and lock up my CB in the console was a better option for me. I would have to relocate it anyway when I install the EVO sport cage so this resolves one of my issues with the install. I decided when the cage comes in (Yes, it still hasn't shipped) that I am going to powdercoat the cage Blue Vein with a black base (see pic). I think it is going to look bad a$$ and just add a little flash to the interior.

Well that's it for now. I hope the next time I post I will turning wrenches finally and have some video links to go along with the build finally. I want to document a as much of this as possible.
 

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Great build! You are working with the right folks.. Motech. I was already priced out to do the same to my black 09 when the white 09 one fell into my lap. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Great build! You are working with the right folks.. Motech. I was already priced out to do the same to my black 09 when the white 09 one fell into my lap. :thumb:
I just checked out your Jeep profile and it is solid to say the least. A 351W is a unique engine. How did that find it's way in there? MA has very strict inspection laws and there is no chance I could get that through inspection here.
 
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