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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had a family picknic today and some of my family wanted to go mudding so as a good jeeper, naturally i obliged. Well, i slipped out a set of ruts and my front passenger side fender "kissed" a tree. When we got back i took a look and saw the damage was worse than i thought.



My Rampage euro brush guard proves why it was only 140 bucks. It bent and snapped at the welds(I bent it back in the picture, so you can't see very well) to show that it's made out of an extremely thin gauge steel. Though i'm glad i had it vs not have it, as i'm willing to bet the damage would have been worse if i didn't.



Though bashing up against this tree has revealed some hidden secrets about my Jeep: The previous owner had previous rust restoration done on the fenders. You can see in the picture that there's a patch over the actual fender steel, and if you look at the paint that flaked off, there's about 1/8th inch of fiberglass resin caked on the fender. Not a bad job, i didn't even notice that it had been repaired when i bought the jeep.

Hindsight is 20/20, as you can probably tell my fenders were already rusted through and it was time for an upgrade. I'm looking at MCE flares at the moment, though it'll take some modifications to my grille.
 

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I love my P.S fenders

 

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Those are actually pretty slick! How much do they run? Are those turn signals built in? And also, do they sell a set that'll cover your tires? Coverage is an issue here in PA =\
I got the inner fenders too and I paid around 700 or so(not 100% on this) The turn signals are from Genright.They do have wider fenders also.Id ck out there site.




Here are the inners.

 

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Lol me 2 I ended up going for metal cloaks and had the excuse to get the fronts painted.

You can't tell but the driver side fender was completely separated from the inner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, my plan to pull out the bend worked pretty well. I tied on to a tree at different angles with a come-a-long and ratched it down until i got the angle i wanted.




It doesn't look half bad, other than all the color chipped off, but the shape looks almost-right. I can put the flair back on now, i popped the turn signal back in and it works(mostly). It doesn't work when you first turn on the aux lights. But when you actually flip the signal on, it blinks fast for a bit(to signify a blinker problem) then goes to normal. I took a look at the bulb as this happened, and it almost looks like it needs to "warm up" and then works. As i can see the bulb lighting up very dim, then it lights up all the way. But, it's street legal to drive once the flair is back on.

I decided to go with MCE 6" fenders. Of all, they're the cheapest and require the least amount of work. And while i'm not a fair of cutting corners(literally, as these fenders require you to cut your stock ones), rust is a huge issue here in PA so the plastic somewhat of a bonus. I'll be bed lining my rear flatties and putting those on. As well as welding my brush guard back together and putting that back on.
 

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Depends on what you are looking for. If you want thin sheet metal and shotty spot welds, sure, you could go with smittybilt. But step into the quality brands and they are on the cheaper end with welding that impresses and is hands down the strongest on the market
 

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Well, my plan to pull out the bend worked pretty well. I tied on to a tree at different angles with a come-a-long and ratched it down until i got the angle i wanted.




It doesn't look half bad, other than all the color chipped off, but the shape looks almost-right. I can put the flair back on now, i popped the turn signal back in and it works(mostly). It doesn't work when you first turn on the aux lights. But when you actually flip the signal on, it blinks fast for a bit(to signify a blinker problem) then goes to normal. I took a look at the bulb as this happened, and it almost looks like it needs to "warm up" and then works. As i can see the bulb lighting up very dim, then it lights up all the way. But, it's street legal to drive once the flair is back on.

I decided to go with MCE 6" fenders. Of all, they're the cheapest and require the least amount of work. And while i'm not a fair of cutting corners(literally, as these fenders require you to cut your stock ones), rust is a huge issue here in PA so the plastic somewhat of a bonus. I'll be bed lining my rear flatties and putting those on. As well as welding my brush guard back together and putting that back on.

Yeah rust is why I'm going with MCE as well. In PA, the less metal the better.

If you have the money PS is the way to go IMO. They look amazing and are extremely tough from what I've heard.

I never was a fan of Poison Spider products mainly because they have to cut out their logo in their parts and I don't want a spider on my jeep(just give me a sticker). Looks cool though.
 

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I never was a fan of Poison Spider products mainly because they have to cut out their logo in their parts and I don't want a spider on my jeep(just give me a sticker). Looks cool though.
Agreed. I'll put their silly angry spider under my hood with the rest of my stickers, but I don't want it on the outside. The good news is that the dumb spider logo on the PS Defenders is a separate piece that can be replaced with a smooth panel or whatever you want. If I ever do flat fenders, I'll want to get PS.
 

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Yeah rust is why I'm going with MCE as well. In PA, the less metal the better.




I never was a fan of Poison Spider products mainly because they have to cut out their logo in their parts and I don't want a spider on my jeep(just give me a sticker). Looks cool though.
You dont have to use the spider logo if you dont want.
 
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