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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HELP please! HA! What an ordeal! Every single fastener fought me every step of the way on this thing and I am still not done. I soaked everything in PB Blaster for 2 days, still ended up cutting bolts off. oh well. Lift is on!!!!

My question is, do I need the transfer case drop? (see attached pic)

I drove it down the street and did not feel any difference in the driveline, no weird noises, binding, etc. I will take it out on the hwy tomorrow to check for vibrations.

This is a Pro Comp 2.5" lift. It did come with Transfer case drop spacers but I CANNOT remove the skid plate!!! I had my largest breaker bar on it, with an extender. Those bolts will NOT MOVE! Now what??? Do I need the transfer case drop? I do not even understand how that will help my driveshaft angle. From these crappy directions it appears it just spaces the skid plate lower???

Happy Holiday weekend!!!! If anyone is out there that can offer a little guidance, I am all ears!

Thank you
 

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I am not a pinion angle expert I do have experience with the slip yoke and a 2.5 in lift.

Look at the amount of travel there with the slip yoke into the transfer case. Mine would come out when I went over a large bump. The carnage experienced when this happens is not fun.

The TCase drop stops this. Your pictures look like you dont have much travel left on the slip yoke.

As far as getting the bolts out. Do you have access to an impact wrench? If not perhaps a helper and a 5lb sledgehammer. Use a breaker bar and have your helper hit the socket while you turn. Heat will help too.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk
 

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The spacer will permit the drive shaft to run a better location.. So you can either work to get the skid plate off, which I will guess at this point due to age and water.. the bolts are rusted inplace.. OR you can get a SYE Kit and new CV rear driveshaft..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you guys!!!

I am on a super tight budget with this thing, for now. Do you think it is driveable as is? I did take it down the street and if felt ok, no noise, etc.

Yeah, I hit it with my 1/2" impact first. It laughed! Then I hit a bolt with heat, nothing. 1/2 inch breaker bar with another bar over it for extended leverage. Either the bar is going to break, the socket is going to break or the head of the bolt will give way. Then I am really in a hole.

Not real sure how to proceed.....bummed.

Thanks again!
 

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I did not have to fight my skid plate bolts because they were all rusted out. I did have to do some frame repair though. ART patches are awesome.

Jack the frame up to get full extension on your suspension and see if the slip yoke falls out. If not you will likely be fine for awhile even with some vibration.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you StephenCBrinson! That air hammer thing looks slick! I have broken a number of T40's as well as many others here. I will have to look into that. I do have an air hammer, and thought about trying to vibrate the bolts some and see. I guess it is worth a shot at this point.

I had the suspension fully extended and the yolk did not fall out. I want to say it has another maybe 3 inches to go from my original pic.
 

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New 2.5" Lift...Cannot get skid off to install TC Drop

If you have no vibrations thru all speeds you may have lucked out? The drop actually drops your transfer case to ‘realign ‘ the angle. If you have plans to lift it more, save for a sye and new rear driveshaft. That’s the correct way + you keep the skid plate where it belongs. I had a RC lift for my first lift(4”) and eventually my driveshaft came loose! It sucked because I was over an hour away from home at a baseball tournament with my son. Drove home in front wheel drive with no fluids. Ended up repairing with the sye.


1992, 4.0,5 spd, BDS 4.5 heavy duty lift, jb conversions ss sye, 8.8 with ARB, Aussie front, tj shafts, dual dia.brake booster, 33” bfg a/t
 

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Get a better impact....
My Ryobi 18-volt cordless impact will kick the s*** out of that little harbor freight unit and my Craftsman air impact will kick the s*** out of my Ryobi
There are plenty of things in this world you can buy cheap versions of and get good results but an air impact ain't one of them
 

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Even M.A.P. Beats propane
 

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I broke my first skidplate bolt with a breaker bar. The next 5, I TIGHTENED about an 1/8" turn before trying to loosen it and they all came out with zero issues.

I also went ahead and replaced all of the rivnuts and bolts though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
All awesome info guys!!!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!

I did go get another impact (air). Lowes Kobalt 1/2", 400 Ft/lbs. I also used my air hammer and propane torch. I was able to break 4 of the 6 loose so far!!!!!!!!!!! I am down to my last 2 and they are stuck. Did another round of PB Blaster, letting them sit, will hit them with the new impact again in a bit.

Incommando--I will look up the MAPP!!! Sounds good!

Jon--Yup, I tried that trick as well and will continue working on it.

Thank again!
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Mapp gas is the yellow propane sized bottle at lowes.


I had Lowes "best" Kobalt Air Impact and put it up against my Dewalt 889 20v 1/2" impact. Gave it to a friend, Haven't had to heat up anything yet when using the Dewalt.
JonStevens trick also worked wonders for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Got all of them broken loose, and was able to install the transfer case drop!

Score! Score! Score!!!!!!!

Thank you all for the help, beers on me!!!!!
 

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Congrats...

Re air impacts... I bought my craftsman about 15 years ago to replace my 10 yr old hf impact... it was the second best 1/2" sears had and iirc it was rated at around 700 ft lbs.... now you can buy impacts with 1300 or more ft lbs for less than I paid for mine but then w my ryobi I only use the air impact about once every 2 years or so lol....

I once dismounted and remounted 6 8 lug wheels on my dually, 6 6 lug wheels on my 5th wheel and 4 5 lug wheels on my jeep all with ONE BATTERY except for putting the last two wheels back on the jeep....
That's 88 nuts off and 78 back on w one batt....
That was a 4 ah battery and I have 6 ah batts now sooo

Oh well apologies for the hijack.... Glad you got ur jeep done!
 

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Btw, I just looked at your finished pics....
That style of drop is absolutely fine for street or mild offroad use but if you tend to hit or drag your skid plate, get the style that is two long pieces, one for each side, each w 3 holes....
The style you have can damage the skid plate and frame if the skid takes hits that knock it backward
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Gottagofast---- Thanks for the info! I have lightweight Makita battery impact and drill and they work fine. I am still hesitant on going all in on the ones that claim 600+ ft lbs. I am old, and cheap. HA! I will keep my eyes open for a deal on a decent battery impact once I get my cash flow going again.

Love your insight on the off road ability (or lack there of) on the skid plate/transfer case drop. Luckily, I am not going to be crawling up any high mountain dry creek beds with this turd. HA! Great info, really appreciate it!
 

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The pinion angle doesn't look right to me in that first pic. Have you set it yet?
 

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