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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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The Metalcloak is $189 and worth the Xtra $40 no question about it.
 

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there are only 3 track bars made for the TJ that have been proven to not hit the diff cover or steering without out making other mods.

Currie, Metal Cloak, and JKS.

Its sad to think that of all the other companies out there making TB's for a setup that hasnt changed in 22 years havent put any R&D into their products so they dont cause interference when the suspension is cycled. sad but true
 

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The Metalcloak should be a distant 3rd choice out of those those three options. They use a heim joint on the frame side which is susceptible to dirt/grime/debris. There are plenty reports of the hiem failing early, in some cases in less than 10k miles.
 

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If you lived locally I'd give you the RR ar I removed from my TJ. It just needs a new grease boot.

It was fine for the stock diff cover but was rubbing my G2 cover. I also figured out when I pulled it that it had a drop bracket that probably added to the problem.

I replaced it with a newer Metalcloak as it had the best clearance IMHO.
 

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there are only 3 track bars made for the TJ that have been proven to not hit the diff cover or steering without out making other mods.

Currie, Metal Cloak, and JKS.

Its sad to think that of all the other companies out there making TB's for a setup that hasnt changed in 22 years havent put any R&D into their products so they dont cause interference when the suspension is cycled. sad but true
Any one of these three will be fine choices
 

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The Metalcloak should be a (very) distant 3rd choice out of those those three options. They use a heim joint on the frame side which is susceptible to dirt/grime/debris. There are plenty reports of the hiem failing early, in some cases in less than 10k miles.
This right here. Heim joints don't belong on the steering system of a vehicle that gets driven much on the street. Why do some vendors use them? Because they're cheap. Which is just one reason I'm no fan of MC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Do either of the 2 rough country ones use a heim joint?

I looked at pics of the JKS and it looks the same to me as the other 2.
https://www.extremeterrain.com/jks-...VryCtBh3opQvGEAQYASABEgIwkPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


How bad will the Rough Country track bar be? It has over 100 positive reviews. Is it going to make my Jeep worse? Death wobble?

I'm not trying to argue with anyone just trying to stay on a reasonable budget.
 

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the problem with the RC ones is the shape of the bar itself. it causes interferance unless the axle is moved a bit and ~3" of bumpstop extension is required.

I like the MC TB but mine is not a DD and gets trailered to trails. I liked it because it allows for less bumpstop extension than the currie or jks bars, that use a Johnny joint and johnny joint knock off respectively, instead of a heim joint.

I have been following another users experience with a replacement heim joint that seems to be rather heavy duty, in the event that mine starts making some noise. every time i think its making noise it turns out to be the AR joints
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the problem with the RC ones is the shape of the bar itself. it causes interferance unless the axle is moved a bit and ~3" of bumpstop extension is required.

I like the MC TB but mine is not a DD and gets trailered to trails. I liked it because it allows for less bumpstop extension than the currie or jks bars, that use a Johnny joint and johnny joint knock off respectively, instead of a heim joint.

I have been following another users experience with a replacement heim joint that seems to be rather heavy duty, in the event that mine starts making some noise. every time i think its making noise it turns out to be the AR joints

Ok. I hear ya.

So if it was between the RC track bar OR keeping my stock track bar, you'd say keep the stock?
 

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Ok. I hear ya.

So if it was between the RC track bar OR keeping my stock track bar, you'd say keep the stock?
100%.

and since you have a 3" lift you can drill a new mount hole in the axle side bracket for the OEM track bar.



When I ran it like this for a bit, I welded a ~1/8" metal blank over the face of the bracket for more structure before drilling the hole, but many people have left the bracket as is and drilled with no ill affect. a big key is properly torquing the track bar bolt so it doesnt loosen up and wallow out the hole
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
100%.

and since you have a 3" lift you can drill a new mount hole in the axle side bracket for the OEM track bar.



When I ran it like this for a bit, I welded a ~1/8" metal blank over the face of the bracket for more structure before drilling the hole, but many people have left the bracket as is and drilled with no ill affect. a big key is properly torquing the track bar bolt so it doesnt loosen up and wallow out the hole

Dumb question here, but I'm going to have someone help me do this.
What's the next step? The instructions on the image you sent ends by saying "Do not install the track bar at this time..."
 
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