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I’ve been on the phone with Dynatrac and they recommended not to use synthetic and to use Torco RGO or similar. End of story for me, that’s what I use in my PR60s. Torco is not some backwoods brand, it’s probably more expensive than most synthetic gear oil.
Never said it was. And Torco rates its SGO superior to RGO. And of course you can't go wrong with following the manufactures recommendation. I just prefer the extra added protection that synthetic's offer.
 

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Motul is another really great syn. I've been using Torco since the 70's.
 

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Triac, there isn’t a manufacture that checks off more boxes or exceeds its standards. They have you covered what ever your preference. Cost competitive due to being a small family operation that manufactures their own lubricants. Sells to military and industrial needs all over the world and is preferred.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Going to try Torco RGO from responses here and a few more shops and people I trust.
 

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Need to change out diff flooding at 500 miles.
Shop says 80-90W Gear oil of my choice. Regular is fine they said, no need for Synthetic. Open to conventional or synthetic.


You were advised correctly; Regular is fine.



Any oil .... Any oil .... that meets the standard in your Owners Manual will suffice. That is the label on the oil container. (The photo is an example of the label only)


But; Synthetic oil protects longer and the longer it is run, much longer/further than conventional oil, the better it protects against metal to metal contact and wear.


So your job is to buy, based on oil industry standard tests, the best performing oil that you can afford.


I have found from those tests and around a million miles of experience that Amsoil lubricants are superior.
Take a look for yourself:

https://www.amsoil.com/



 

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Discussion Starter #47
Need to change out diff flooding at 500 miles.
Shop says 80-90W Gear oil of my choice. Regular is fine they said, no needfor Synthetic. Open to conventional or synthetic.


You were advised correctly; Regular is fine.



Any oil .... Any oil .... that meets the standard in your Owners Manual will suffice. That is the label on the oil container.


But; Synthetic oil protects longer and the longer the better it protects against metal to metal contact and wear.


So your job is to buy the best performing, based on oil industry standard tests, oil that you can afford.


I have found from those tests and around a million miles of experience that Amsoil lubricants are superior.
Take a look for yourself:

https://www.amsoil.com/



yeah, I know about amsoil buy its synthetic. eaton say do not use.
Might start canning my own oil again. But I have 6 free oil changes at Jeep.
hate to waste it.
 

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Going to try Torco RGO from responses here and a few more shops and people I trust.
Same... was much cheaper to buy a case of 12 for me...$129.00 vs $23/quart! i would have needed 5 to be safe per Jeep.
 

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I ordered the Torco direct, looks like it’s $14 a quart.
 

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Discussion Starter #51

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I have asked this question to many people. Most say I have no idea. A few tried telling me that factory lube is a "special formula". I definitely call bs on that. lol
your right just had my Dana 44 rebuilt on my JK the spider gears were chewed up and I asked the shop foreman at the dealership about changing the differential at 500 miles .And he looked at me like I was crazy .I think I will its nice to know if they did it right by checking the magnetic plugs for metal
 

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OK, I know I am going to use Torco RGO, GL-6 with no friction modifiers. But can I just get the 85-140 for the front and rear or the 80-90 for the front and rear. Having two different types is just not for me. I have to use the 85-140 in the rear of my Ram diesel anyway so prefer to just get the 85-140 for the JK.
 

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I use the Torco 85W-140 in the front and rear here in Southern Arizona.
 

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Tomorrow I'll go get a case if it's open.
 
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