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JK owners!!! We have taken our tried and true geometry correction brackets for the JK platform and add even more options for castor with 4 holes. Our one piece design makes install incredibly easy. No need to fumble around with plates! You asked for it and we listened! Check with your favorite retailer on pricing!!!


 

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Any plan to make Rear geometry correction brackets?

Currently it seems only Metal Cloak makes them. It's a great idea but they are overpriced. With front and rear you can have a 4-6 inch lift with the geometry of a much lower lift.
 

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I am planning on installing the teraflex 2.5 coil lift, and new Rancho control arm brackets with it.
Which hole would you recommend I use for the upper arms? first or second?
thanks
 

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Theres no need ^^ even MC's dont correct pinion, only flatten the arms out (Imo you should be on long arms running 5-6" of lift)
Front brackets do both caster and flatten the arms out for a smoother ride.


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Flattening out the rear arms would be beneficial. The force will push the vehicle forward instead of pushing down on the arms/tires.

I agree about long arms for a JK but for a JKU they really aren't necessary due to the extended wheel base/arm length.
 

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Flattening out the rear arms would be beneficial. The force will push the vehicle forward instead of pushing down on the arms/tires.

I agree about long arms for a JK but for a JKU they really aren't necessary due to the extended wheel base/arm length.

I don't understand ? Front arm angles transfer into the front end/steering and you feel it more. Rear arms do not.. i mean there might be a small difference but nothing like the front.




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Flattening out the rear arms would be beneficial. The force will push the vehicle forward instead of pushing down on the arms/tires.

I agree about long arms for a JK but for a JKU they really aren't necessary due to the extended wheel base/arm length.

I don't understand ? Front arm angles transfer into the front end/steering and you feel it more. Rear arms do not.. i mean there might be a small difference but nothing like the front.




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When your control arms are parallel/more horizontal to the ground the force from accelerating pushes the Jeep forward.

The more vertical the arms are the force is pushed downwards causing the tires to "dig" downwards into the ground instead of propelling the vehicle forward.
 

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I ask this in another thread, and according to @Pressurized, he recommends the top hole for 2.5 lift.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/new-rancho-rs62103-control-arm-bracket-kit-1809713-2.html#post29827850
but, not sure if this is Teraflex 2.5 specific or 2.5 in general.
Here is my real world experience. I got a little more caster than Rancho's paperwork stated, about .5deg. So I would rate the top hole at 2-2.5 and the second hole as 3-3.5 and the third hole as 4-4.5 and the forth hole as 5" and up. All rated lift size, not an "actual" front measurement.

Generally speaking, the 1.5 and 2" lifts shouldn't need any correction, but I have seen some that were a little low. At 2.5, some are acceptable but most benefit from correction. Anything 3" and up will definitely be better with correction.

:drinks:
 

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I recently installed the Rancho 2" Progressive Sport Lift on my JKU, and I cannot stand the ride now. It feels "flighty" driving down the road. I have to keep a firm grip on the steering wheel in case it decides to pull hard to the left or right. It doesn't seem like a constant pull, just random. Will these correction brackets fix this? Or, should my first step be to get an alignment done. I was under the impression that for this lift, I really shouldn't need an alignment. I am still running stock sway bar links in front and rear. Would longer ones correct this too? Thanks for the help, and sorry for all the questions!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes the brackets will help.
You shouldn't need new links.
Are the tires new too? Balanced? Tire pressure?
We always suggest an alignment too.
Keep us posted.
Matt

I recently installed the Rancho 2" Progressive Sport Lift on my JKU, and I cannot stand the ride now. It feels "flighty" driving down the road. I have to keep a firm grip on the steering wheel in case it decides to pull hard to the left or right. It doesn't seem like a constant pull, just random. Will these correction brackets fix this? Or, should my first step be to get an alignment done. I was under the impression that for this lift, I really shouldn't need an alignment. I am still running stock sway bar links in front and rear. Would longer ones correct this too? Thanks for the help, and sorry for all the questions!
 

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Yes the brackets will help.
You shouldn't need new links.
Are the tires new too? Balanced? Tire pressure?
We always suggest an alignment too.
Keep us posted.
Matt
Thanks Matt! The tires have been on the Jeep for a few months, so I don't think that's the issue. They may be holding a little too much air, so I will make sure to check that. I did have a small accident after installing the lift, but I don't think it messed anything up. I forgot to torque the lugs on my driver side rear tire and it came off driving down the highway at ~50mph. The hub caught on the inside lip of the wheel when it dropped, so it never hit the pavement. The lugs and everything looked okay, with the exception of the tire and wheel being ruined. I replaced it with the spare on the back that was about 3 months newer than the one I took off. Could something like that be the cause? It happened on the test drive right after install.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I don't "Think" that would cause an issue honestly.
I am glad you are OK too.
I would try an alignment first.
That MAY help out, if not the geo bracket will.
Matt

Thanks Matt! The tires have been on the Jeep for a few months, so I don't think that's the issue. They may be holding a little too much air, so I will make sure to check that. I did have a small accident after installing the lift, but I don't think it messed anything up. I forgot to torque the lugs on my driver side rear tire and it came off driving down the highway at ~50mph. The hub caught on the inside lip of the wheel when it dropped, so it never hit the pavement. The lugs and everything looked okay, with the exception of the tire and wheel being ruined. I replaced it with the spare on the back that was about 3 months newer than the one I took off. Could something like that be the cause? It happened on the test drive right after install.
 

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I don't "Think" that would cause an issue honestly.
I am glad you are OK too.
I would try an alignment first.
That MAY help out, if not the geo bracket will.
Matt
Great! Thanks for the help!! One last question, if I go ahead and get an alignment, would I need to get another after adding geo correction brackets? Not sure if they will change it or not.
 
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