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Discussion Starter #1
I love jeeps ever since 1993! Dont get me wrong Im sure thats me being a young en!:)

I had a 85 cj7 then and had to part with for college money. But now I am itching and have been on the hunt. Not wanting to break bank initially and just get back in the game.

My purpose is joy riding on or off road on weekends. Not rock crawling, etc... Got a kiddo now and just want him to enjoy.

Either way, finally found one that I am going to look at Saturday. I am not a knowledgeable mechanic but am a fast learner.

Without getting into the 4 cyl debate. Here is the issue. Price is decent to good.

1995 YJ, owned by service man, wasnt used much. Seller bought from him and had 3 yrs. Now selling. he said he used for offroading and playing.

Self Rhino lined. Minimal rust as you can see in pics. ONLY 64,000 original miles! fuel gauge doesnt work, and he said steering has some play. Doesnt bug him but its there. Guessing steering box. After research I think I could do that if thats the issue. Just dont want a money pit!!!!!! Wife would kill me, lol.

Asking $4000

Good deal? Steering a huge issue? Thanks guys cant wait to hear.





 

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Looks really good for a 95. My 95 has 92k and I love it. The steering play could be tierod ends or worn out steering shaft ujoints. And not 100% sure but I do believe there is an adjustment screw so you can tighten or loosen the steering a little in the gearbox. Other than that anymore pics of he suspension or drivetrain? $4000 doesn't sound bad as Lon as the drivetrain is intact and no major issues.
 

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Check the steering shaft and front end components first. The box is usually the last thing to go imho. My 95 with 198k was lose in steering and mechanics said steering box but was actually the steering shaft. The u joints were spent. It's a pretty easy fix if its not rusted solid. The shouldnt wiggle so just reach in an shake it. There is an adjuster for the steering box but watch it. Idiot mechanic played with mine n I almost killed myself driving it home. Had to stop and back it off myself. That's when I checked it myself and found the bad steering shaft. Good luck! A jeep at any price is a good deal in my mind. As long as you have one!
 

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Loose steering could be steering stabilizer shock, easy fix for $23. When buying, i always see if i can get the car up to 65 without it shaking or shimmying on highway. Electrical stuff can be fixed, a bad frame can not. Also, check car fax it will tell you the exact value of any vehicle give or take.
 

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Loose steering could be steering stabilizer shock, easy fix for $23. When buying, i always see if i can get the car up to 65 without it shaking or shimmying on highway. Electrical stuff can be fixed, a bad frame can not. Also, check car fax it will tell you the exact value of any vehicle give or take.

If the steering is loose, a $23 shock will not fix it. There are worn out parts in the front end. Use it as a bargaining tool to bring down the price.

"It's $xx for the drag link, $xx for the tie rod, and $xx for an alignment. I will give you $3500."

Once it drives fine without the stabilizer, then add one if you want. But the $23 dollar fix is just hiding other problems.

Have fun with your new Jeep.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the help.

Can you guys happen to tell me what pricing would be for the following if I had to replace?

Just an estimate. Again not much of a mechanic but looking forward to learning.

1. Tie Rod
2.Steering Shaft
3. Drag Link
4. Etc...
 

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I found some OEM stuff from Crown. Tie rods 18.99 a piece. Drag link 83.99 and tie rode for it 23.99. And if the steering d shaft is bad its 139.99. Hope this helps.
 

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POS yj is right. The front end should b tight without a stabilizer. A stabilizer is only to dampen vibration and help control wheel kick from bumps. To me all those repairs are minor in nature and cost. If you've got a solid frame and body and the drive train all appears solid I wouldn't sweat that stuff and chances are very good with the low mileage that more likely a bad tie rod end which will take all of 15 minutes to swap out. If your careful you can probably avoid and alignment too. before removing the old tire rod, measure the exact distance from the center of the old tie rod end to where the opening to the tie rod shaft is (where the rod end screws in). When you install the new tie rod end screw it in until its center is at the same measurement. That should keep the alignment set. Good luck!
 
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