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Discussion Starter #1
I have known my master and slave have been getting weaker for a while now. Pedal not returning all the way, etc. However, the clutch itself has been fine.
Last night I finally replaced master/slave with a compete bench bled setup. 20-30 mins just like everyone says.

Before firing, push pedal in and out a few times -- feels great! Home free I think!!
Take a for a slow drive around the neighborhood, all is good. Clutch pedal feels like new. I'm happy.
***Then I attempt to accelerate at a little more pace -- Clutch is slipping like crazy***

Doesn't make sense to me since it NEVER slipped at all prior.

OK -- On the original slave there was a plastic spacer piece(black). I DID put it on new slave since new one DID NOT come with this piece. (See Pics). I'm thinking even if that was wrong, it would only make rod shorter so should not act like clutch being engaged.

I had also read that you leave the retaining straps (white) in place when installing. You see the tabs of those in the pic.

Also - I had to push the slave in a good bit to get where I could get the nuts onto the studs. Is this an issue? Would that have been enough to "engage" the clutch some?

Thought-opinions-experience greatly appreciated!!!

95 -- 2.5
 

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The easiest way to decipher would be to match the old slave up with the new. See if the rods are the same length.

I have seen quite a few clutch slave/master combos that weren't matched or even close to working. Poor quality control at the manufacturer I would suspect.

The stroke on the master has to match the stroke on the slave in order to work as a matched set.

I don't see anything wrong with how you re-installed it. looks good on that part. And you should have to compress the slave about 1/2" in order to start the nuts. I have done that on everyone that I have ever installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the feedback.
Will it be a problem now taking the slave off (to check and measure as suggested), and getting it back on since the retaining straps will now be broken as designed?
 

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Straps are just there to hold the piston in and make for an easy install. When you remove the slave just wrap a baggie around the end to keep it from getting dirty. When you go to reinstall it you will have to push the piston in about half travel. I normally just press it against the bell housing. It's not going to shoot back out but you will have to get it in fairly quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Do I go back with the added black plastic piece that I took off the old one and added on to new one? like a spacer.
 

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Yes, I would add the plastic spacer back into the mix. I would suspect that the piston itself is longer on the new one than the old. Hence the reason for the clutch feeling like its slipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, I would add the plastic spacer back into the mix. I would suspect that the piston itself is longer on the new one than the old. Hence the reason for the clutch feeling like its slipping.
I agree you are probably correct on that. Soon as I get a chance to pull apart I will measure and confirm.

The question is, do I attribute that to manufacturer variation, defect, or some other cause? And do I attempt more shimming, or return the part and look elsewhere for a new one?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update on this -- something in the clutch itself must have broken when I thought the master/slave had finally just given up.

I bled the new unit repeatedly. Great pedal with motor off. Fire it up, same soft pedal feel, "like lack of resistance from the pressure plate". Short drive on the street, same issue. clutch all the way engaged, but slips.

Just to ease my mind -- put the old master/slave back in since it only takes a few minutes. Now it was also doing the same thing.

I am fairly convince that an arm or fingers or something in the clutch must have broken.

While I'm doing clutch though, I need to rebuild/replace the AX5. 5th gear gone and 2nd gear sychro bad as well.
Am I better off buying a rebuild ready to go ($675) on Ebay -- or get the rebuild kit ($104) and give it a whirl in rebuilding?
Likewise, what should a tranny shop charge to rebuild if I'm pulling and installing?

Thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Turned out to be that the clutch was smoked.
Did a complete replacement (LUK kit)
Also replaced flywheel (LUK)
Went with a new master/slave
Had the old transmission rebuilt by a local shop. Cost a few bucks more than I anticipated, but that's typical with this stuff. Now I have "a guy" to go to as needed.
The sychros were the least of the issues in the old trans. They were shot (kid I bought from was hard on it). However, the bearings were also completely toast. They must have really been making a lot of noise, because it's so quiet now, I can just barely hear the clutch engaging.
I guess 75w 90 (GL3) does not exist anymore. Looked high and low, but to no avail.
I went with the 10w30 synthetic idea for now. Was ready to go and no time to order Redline. However, I will being replacing at next change with Redline MT90 as so many (well respected) people on here recommend.

Note -- never thought 5th gear was needed, I'll admit that it made a peaceful cruise last night using it. I also had shop add the 5th gear collar so she stays in place.

Good for now!!
 
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