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Hi everyone, I just picked up a new to me 2013 JKUR last week that came with the 4" Mopar lift kit and 35" MT tires. While this may sound odd, I'd like to lower it down to a 2-2.5" lift and swap to 33" KO2 tires to make it more livable around town. My question is, what would it take to do this? Is it just a matter of some new springs or is there more to it than that?

From what I can tell, the steering stabilizer and track bar are still stock though I'm not sure. I'll toss in a few pictures for some help. I'd love to keep the sweet shocks that are already in there if possible but just looking to drop the height down.

Before anyone asks, I bought this particular Jeep even with the lift kit because it came with 18500 (yup) original miles from an owner who kept it at his vacation home in Arizona. Because I live in MN, every other one I saw of the same vintage had some degree of rust on it so this one was really hard to pass up... The Jeep came from the dealer with the lift and tires installed.

Thanks in advance for the help!
 

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If you lower the height you will need to get shorter shocks. If you just swapped out springs the longer shocks would allow the axle to drop far enough that the spring would fall out. You could install limiting straps to keep the axle from dropping that far, but you would also have limited up travel of the axle due to the longer shocks. Not sure what all the 4” MOPAR lift included, but you will probably also need to get shorter bump stops.

If you want to drop it down, springs and shocks are the minimum equipment you will need to replace.

Congrats on your purchase.


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To do it right you would pretty much buy a lift kit or lift parts for the lift height you want and install them in place of what is there. That would include the springs and shocks, and bump stop extensions (it looks like the 4" kit included new bump stops all together, how hard they would be to remove or if you could adapt them to work with the lower lift I don't know), possibly sway bar links, rear track bar bracket, etc.
I would make sure you know what has been installed as well. If a drag link flip has been installed (or perhaps a drop pitman arm) that would need to be removed, and put back to stock.You would want to determine what has been done to address castor for the 4" lift, as it would need to be partially undone as reducing lift height would increase castor. Too much castor can cause poor driving performance.
Good luck.
 

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What do mean livable around town? Is it sluggish? Perhaps a re-gear would be more cost effective? Too tall to get in? Maybe a step (if you're lowering it 2" a step may not bother your clearance needs)... just thoughts. How does it drive now? Any alignment print-outs?
 

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Thanks guys. I'll start looking into lift kits and taking it in to a local shop to see what all it needs to have done.

Any thoughts on brands or what to look for? I've read that Rough Country is not so great. Don't want to spend a ton of money but would like to get a quality and reliable lift out of it. While this thing will likely spend most of its time on pavement, I do plan on wheeling it several times a year.

What do mean livable around town? Is it sluggish? Perhaps a re-gear would be more cost effective? Too tall to get in? Maybe a step (if you're lowering it 2" a step may not bother your clearance needs)... just thoughts. How does it drive now? Any alignment print-outs?
No alignment print outs that I have but it's not just sluggish but just overall not a fan of the way it rides. Guessing a good amount of that is due to the MT tires but I'd rather not buy a set of AT 35's and then also not like that. Too tall to get isn't a big deal, I'm not old yet but the jury is still out on if it'll fit in my garage height wise....

Pics of the rest of it for your troubles:
 

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if you have not done so lower your psi to 28psi and see if that helps. I can say that mopar lift is an extremely nice lift (they had some poor ones) the one you got is one of the better ones Mopar offered. The bumpstops are a great upgrade and they can be adjusted for a lower lift height. The bigger issue will be they used a highsteer kit that required drilling the knuckle so you will need to get a sleeve so you can go back to a regular drag link. shocks and coils and new drag link end most likely all you need. The rear track bar bracket should have a hole to lower the track bar to work as well. One thing is mopar does use cam bolt for caster correction so you should check on that to see if they were installed (hopefully not but not a real big thing if they were) It does make it easier to adjust caster by most alignment shops as they know how they work. Just have to make sure you keep the lower bolts tight at all time.
 

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So sounds like shocks and springs for sure, likely to need new sway bar end links as well. Will confirm on drag link. Any thoughts on lower control arms? The ones on there now are definitely not stock, would they be too long?

Also, any thoughts on a replacement kit that's a good bang for your buck? Was thinking of going with the Teraflex 2.5" lift kit with shocks but am open to others. I've read on here and other places that Rough Country isn't a good option for a reliable lift.
 

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the control arms are the same ones that are used with TF's 2.5-3" lifts they are TF sport arms. You can measure center to center to confirm but I know the one we installed on my buddies was the same as my sport arms. Depending on what your intended usage is AEV 2.5 is a great daily driver lift as well. take a photo of your lower control arm mounts to see if they used the cam bolts or not.
 

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the control arms are the same ones that are used with TF's 2.5-3" lifts they are TF sport arms. You can measure center to center to confirm but I know the one we installed on my buddies was the same as my sport arms. Depending on what your intended usage is AEV 2.5 is a great daily driver lift as well. take a photo of your lower control arm mounts to see if they used the cam bolts or not.
I'll grab some pics this evening and post them. Thanks for the advice!

The primary use is around town, on road but I do plan on doing mild-moderate trails with it several times a year.
 

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:welcome: to the Forum..:wavey:
Thank you! Excited to start this adventure. This is my second foray into the Jeep world, I started with a Cherokee TH back in 2015 and got rid of that last year because it was an epic POS. Did the Ouray Jeep Jamboree with it back in 2017 and was hooked, definitely wanted more.

This Jeep isn't my daily driver, I typically go around in a 2018 Golf R which is a LOT faster and a LOT better on gas. :)
 

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If that is your usage, I would give this lift a chance before downsizing.
As mentioned, tire pressure is very key to ride quality. Many dealers over-inflate the tires. With 35" tires the pressures listed on the door jam mean nothing. Typical pressures for 35" tires is around 28 - 30 psi.
While I prefer a 2.5" lift the difference is not very much. And that lift should be able to ride pretty well if everything is right. Castor is the second key to ride quality, although that is more about how it steers then how it rides. An alignment will give you that info.
Finally, with that much lift adding geometry brackets is a common mod. Geometry brackets flatten out the front control arms, which allows them to better absorb bumps and braking forces. Of course geometry brackets also affect castor, so adding them may require other adjustments if castor has already been addressed.
 

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You are on the right track. A little lift is just right. Look at videos of the Jeeps rolling in Moab, and they are often bouncing on too much lift like stilts. Then watch videos of Grandpa's jeep in Moab and watch him own everything on a low rider Jeep.
 

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Just wanted to post an update on this. I decided that I'm just going to keep it as-is and do some small upgrades to improve the drive. First of all, swapping the MT tires for AT tires to get a better ride and less noise. Second, swapping the stock track bar for a larger adjustable one for some better stability. Depending on how that goes, I'd get adjustable control arms too but I'll play it by ear after the track bar and tires...

Thanks everyone for your help!
 

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Just wanted to post an update on this. I decided that I'm just going to keep it as-is and do some small upgrades to improve the drive. First of all, swapping the MT tires for AT tires to get a better ride and less noise. Second, swapping the stock track bar for a larger adjustable one for some better stability. Depending on how that goes, I'd get adjustable control arms too but I'll play it by ear after the track bar and tires...

Thanks everyone for your help!
You mentioned KO2's above, they have a 315/70-17 in C rating and that would be a good choice. Get it on an alignment rack and post the printout. We can certainly help you if there are some areas of concern.

I can't stand MT/R's so yeah, dump them first.
 

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You mentioned KO2's above, they have a 315/70-17 in C rating and that would be a good choice. Get it on an alignment rack and post the printout. We can certainly help you if there are some areas of concern.

I can't stand MT/R's so yeah, dump them first.
Definitely will do. I'm going to get the tires and track bar on there first to mitigate as much of the wandering and tramlining out. After that I'll get the alignment done and figure out the rest.

Depending on how the caster angle shakes out, I may need adjustable control arms but the Mopar kit came with longer arms to begin with so I'm not sure yet.

Is the track bar really as easy to DIY install as it seems? I'm pretty mechanically inclined so not a total newbie but never worked on a Jeep before.
 

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You mentioned KO2's above, they have a 315/70-17 in C rating and that would be a good choice. Get it on an alignment rack and post the printout. We can certainly help you if there are some areas of concern.

I can't stand MT/R's so yeah, dump them first.
Oh and yeah, those are definitely the tires I'm going with. They're also $40 a tire cheaper than the 35x12.5x17 in E rating.
 

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Definitely will do. I'm going to get the tires and track bar on there first to mitigate as much of the wandering and tramlining out. After that I'll get the alignment done and figure out the rest.

Depending on how the caster angle shakes out, I may need adjustable control arms but the Mopar kit came with longer arms to begin with so I'm not sure yet.

Is the track bar really as easy to DIY install as it seems? I'm pretty mechanically inclined so not a total newbie but never worked on a Jeep before.
Extremely easy to do with little risk for concern. Torquing the new one back in place will require 135# ft/lbs of torque so be prepared to have the tools required for that. (1/2" Torque bar, sockets, and wrenches (18-22mm)
 

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Extremely easy to do with little risk for concern. Torquing the new one back in place will require 135# ft/lbs of torque so be prepared to have the tools required for that. (1/2" Torque bar, sockets, and wrenches (18-22mm)
I'll have to make sure I have a 22mm crescent wrench but I have a big breaker bar and the right size torque wrench already. Are both bolts 135 ft/lbs? And am I reading right that I don't even need to raise the Jeep to change this thing out?
 

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Definitely will do. I'm going to get the tires and track bar on there first to mitigate as much of the wandering and tramlining out. After that I'll get the alignment done and figure out the rest.

Depending on how the caster angle shakes out, I may need adjustable control arms but the Mopar kit came with longer arms to begin with so I'm not sure yet.

Is the track bar really as easy to DIY install as it seems? I'm pretty mechanically inclined so not a total newbie but never worked on a Jeep before.
The arms are good, but I think that Mopar actually adds a set of cam washers to the front axle to increase caster and they also make it a little bit adjustable. They're not a favorite of ours as they can sometimes move under hard impacts off road. But if you mark them with a paint pen and keep them tight, most people don't have trouble.

Track bar is one of the easier installs... And yes, you want to do the work on the ground. You might need an assistant to help line up the holes, I use a ratchet strap as my assistant. ;)
 
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