Jeep Wrangler Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of September's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I recently bought a 2016 Wrangler 2 door Willlys with quite a lift installed and 37" tires. I am new to jeeps and lifts but am learning quickly. I was hoping for some help identifying some of the lift/suspension components and confirming dimensions. I have read many posts on measuring lift height, but am not positive if im reading the height correctly given spacers/levelers. Ive included some pictures of what i'm looking at. Absolutely any help would be appreciated. I do intend on taking it in for an alignment at a local Fat Boys that are familiar with and install lifts. When I bought it the dealer had the tires up to 37psi and I was getting wicked bumpsteer. Ive backed that down to 28 and will be test driving highway today/tomorrow. I do have adjustable droplink and trackbars and they are parallel to eachother. Most interested in anything that looks out of place or oddly installed. The jeep had Rough Country stickers and I see some Rough Country trail lights and brake lines, but I can also see a Teraflex spring leveler. Help identify this Frankenstein's components please.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
2015 Anvil JKUR Hard Rock.
Joined
·
428 Posts
Grey springs....rough country i bet. Spacer lift...... You have a dropped pitman....looks rough country. Remove it! But then you need to remove the raised track bar bracket on axle....or put a drag link flip into her. That looks more messed up than the rough country lift that was on my rig. I didnt listen when i read everywhere.....dont buy a lifted jeep..... Yep...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,363 Posts
That is a massive amount of lift for a JK. It looks to be around 6 inches of lift. That is a lot of lift for a JK / JKU.
It has a raised trackbar bracket, but instead of a flipped draglink it has a dropped pitman arm. Not a good way to go. The trackbar and draglink are likely parallel, but the dropped pitman arm introduces its own set of issues with the way force is feed. I would remove the dropped pitman arm and install a flipped draglink if you are keeping that lift.
As mentioned, that is a cheap, bottom of the barrel lift. Making it worse is that is a lot of lift. You may have other issues down the road, things like drive shaft issues, pinion angle issues, and poor suspension performance due to the angles the control arms are at.
You may want to replace that suspension with something better. I would look at a MetalCloak Gamechanger in the 3.5” range. You can easily run 35” tires with that.
At a minimum I would replace the dropped pitman arm with a normal pitman arm and a draglink flip, and add a set of geometry brackets.
You also want to see where your caster is at.
 

·
Retired Moderator
Joined
·
102,504 Posts
Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.
 

·
Registered
2015 Anvil JKUR Hard Rock.
Joined
·
428 Posts
I would completely get rid of that lift entirely. Go for something like Metalcloak or AEV
I would have to agree wholeheartedly. Sorry o.p.
 

·
Grumpy Old Guy
Joined
·
4,170 Posts
And its running 37's? Yikes. All that stock suspension and front axle. Most here would agree to spend money in this order:

- 35" tires. Lots of threads on what folks like, what's available in the pandemic aftermarket parts game, etc. This alone will make a real difference right away. If you are firm on maintaining 37's, get ready to spend some money. Depending on which lift kit you choose, axle needs can run 3-5x as much as your lift kit. 37's and bigger require axle support or upgrades. 35's are right on that happy cusp. Lighter wheel and tire choices make a huge difference too.

- Suspension. As stated above, looks like RC springs, but maybe Pro Comp shocks, which are marginally better than RC units. I run a Metalcloak/AEV hybrid. 2.5" AEV but replaced with Metalcloak Overland springs.

- Gearing. Guarantee whoever spent as little asp possible on that setup, didnt regear it. 2.5" lift with a moderately heavy rig and 35's a 4.56 ratio would probably suit you well. Is it a Rubicon, Sport or Sahara? Rubicon has a Dana 44 front, the other two have Dana 30's. The Dana 30 will fail rather quickly if you do any offroading with 37's. Dana 44 will hold up a bit better.

-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the replies, I liked the Jeep enough I bought it knowing it looked like it was built by someone less than mature and more interested in bling. I had to strip out all the neon green trim stuck to every piece of the interior with double sided tape and spent two hours cleaning sticker glue off all the windows. I assumed that mindset probably extended to the lift kit. I'm definitely not stuck on 37" tires. I was actually considering putting on a set of 33 M/T's from an F150 even though they may look a little small with 6" of lift. It may be a bit before I remove or replace the lift kit, I have none of the original parts, but I will likely have the dropped pitman swapped back to OEM and install a new draglink as some suggested just to make the drivability safer. Going down to 28psi did remove 80% of the bumpsteer so I at least feel like I can drive it on the highway without fearing for my life. I look forward to many more forum posts regarding the trials and tribulations of this rig.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
I think something else you need to look at checking are the conditions of the ball joints. any one that went that cheap and that high will ignore the fact that they are way out of line running 37s on a DANA 30 ..... I would think you have ball joints that are in bad shape also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,285 Posts
I just replaced my stock suspension with a 2.5" Metal Cloak almost Game changer and was gonna offer up the stock parts to ya but looking at the terrain in the picture it looks like you are no where near Maryland.
 

·
Registered
2015 Anvil JKUR Hard Rock.
Joined
·
428 Posts
It is a good looking Jeep
I can see in this pic you have adjustable rear lower control arms. Take a pic of your control arms,front and rear. Take a pic from the rear too. Want to see the rear track bar. Just want to see all that we are working with. Like you I bought a RC lifted Jeep. Anything can be fixed.
Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
663 Posts
I do see some good modifications there. Sway bar quick disconnects and a flipped steering stabilizer are clearly good things to have for trail use. Neither are rocket science parts. I'd just get under the thing and make sure the track bar bolts are really, really, really tight. If they're not, you will induce death wobble and enough of that and you'll oval out the holes in the brackets and need to weld them closed up to a circle again.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top