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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2011 JKUR. adding some new gear and need some suggestions and thoughts
What I have:
1. Body armor 4x4 front bumper w/ skid
2. winch
3. 2 8" KC's
4. 4" teraflex coils
5. Fox reservoir racing shocks
6. 33" MT MTZ's on 17's
7. Smittybuilt rock sliders
8. AEV front track bar and bilstein steering stabilizer.
9. bunch of other stuff in interior and some exterior LED lighting

What I'm adding
1. Smittybuilt XRC front fender armor and rear corner armor
2. Poison Spyder rear bumper(no spare tire so no need for tire carrier just yet)
3. 38"x14.5 goodyear wranglers with kevlar
4. 5.13 gears

Questions:
wheel spacers?
Rear trackbar absolutely neccesary?
Any other things I might need to add along with this? or modify?
Any conflicts between parts?

Any thoughts and suggestions are appreciated. post away!:popcorn:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
keep in mind I install everything myself so please be descriptive
 

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1. 5.38's. Don't do 5.13's
2. Gussets and Sleeves
3. New Brake Lines
4. Rear Trackbar Bracket (Tower)
5. Draglink Flip
6. 3" Bump Stops
7. Spidertrax 1.5" Wheel Spacers
8. Adjustable Rear Trackbar, Yes.
9. Front Lower Control Arms
10. Rear Upper Control Arms
11. Front Drive Shaft
12. Rear Drive Shaft
13. Trimming pinch Seem
and after that, so far so good...


a BIG ONE, 14. Aftermarket Transmission Cooler
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
1. 5.38's. Don't do 5.13's
2. Gussets and Sleeves
3. New Brake Lines
4. Rear Trackbar Bracket (Tower)
5. Draglink Flip
6. 3" Bump Stops
7. Spidertrax 1.5" Wheel Spacers
8. Adjustable Rear Trackbar, Yes.
9. Front Lower Control Arms
10. Rear Upper Control Arms
11. Front Drive Shaft
12. Rear Drive Shaft
13. Trimming pinch Seem
and after that, so far so good...


a BIG ONE, 14. Aftermarket Transmission Cooler
alot of this will come but what are the essentials. I forgot about control arms, thanks for reminding me. Can the driveshafts, wheel spacers, and gussets and sleeves wait? From my knowledge if you have over a 4" lift you get a new rear trackbar but use the existing bracket to give you proper angles and realignment. I'm on the edge about the brakelines.. do I have to have them right away? why do you suggest the 5.38s over the 5.13's? what is #13?? and any suggestions on the transmission cooler?

sorry bout all the questions. just a limited amount of money and wanna get this right the first time.
 

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538s because you will regret buying 513s.

anything over 4" of lift you will need all of the above and more.

do it right, youre looking at spending 5K+
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What lift do you have installed? Can you link the suspension? And what components do you have installed on your jeep?
it was a originally a 4" pro comp lift and i switched out for teraflex coils and fox shocks. and further suspension parts will be teraflex so yes I should be able to link everything and what do you mean by components. I'm only 2 years a jeeper so still catchin up on lingo. I just want to make sure my axles and transmission will work fine with the5.38s I dont want to sacrafice too many mpg's, it's still a drive to work vehicle
 

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You're in for a heap of surprises if you're on a limited budget and this is your DD and you're not looking for a big hit to your MPGs.

Absolutely you need extended brake lines. The stockers would be stretched to the max on a 4" lift with even a small articulation.
 

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Ok. So lets say youre starting over and buying piece by piece.

To successfully and comfortably run a 4" suspension kit...

1. 4" Teraflex coils will give you 4" - 6" of actual net lift

2. Brake lines are needed

3. Front Lower Control Arms are needed

4. Front drive shaft is needed

5. If you have a two door, rear drive shaft is needed along with the front.

6. If you install a rear drive shaft you need to buy rear upper control arms to fix and rotate the rear pinion

7. Front and Rear adjustable sway bar links are needed

8. Up front, a draglink flip kit with a raised trackbar bracket is needed.

9. To run a draglink flip kit, you need to run a minimum of 3" bump stops in the front to avoid direct contact with the draglink and frame

10. You need to install a rear trackbar bracket tower to increase roll center and match your front roll center of gravity

11. You need wheel spacers to offset backspacing and tire rubbing

12. Transmission Cooler

13. Regearing

The items that can wait...

Gussets and sleeves.

Don't take it off the pavement without those. Or be careful!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok. So lets say youre starting over and buying piece by piece.

To successfully and comfortably run a 4" suspension kit...

1. 4" Teraflex coils will give you 4" - 6" of actual net lift

2. Brake lines are needed

3. Front Lower Control Arms are needed

4. Front drive shaft is needed

5. If you have a two door, rear drive shaft is needed along with the front.

6. If you install a rear drive shaft you need to buy rear upper control arms to fix and rotate the rear pinion

7. Front and Rear adjustable sway bar links are needed

8. Up front, a draglink flip kit with a raised trackbar bracket is needed.

9. To run a draglink flip kit, you need to run a minimum of 3" bump stops in the front to avoid direct contact with the draglink and frame

10. You need to install a rear trackbar bracket tower to increase roll center and match your front roll center of gravity

11. You need wheel spacers to offset backspacing and tire rubbing

12. Transmission Cooler

13. Regearing

The items that can wait...

Gussets and sleeves.

Don't take it off the pavement without those. Or be careful!
WOW. I have the 4" lift on there already and have had no problems. all this changes just by going to 38s?
1. I have control arms.they are pro comp but seem to work with the other components pretty well.(these need to be replaced but they can wait.)
2. I have the flipped draglink in the front(my bad for forgetting that)
3. I will get the brake lines as that seems to be a must
4. I will also get the rear tower kit with trackbar
5. I'll regear and put on the wheel spacers as soon as the tires go on
6. I think the front drive shaft, sway bar links, and bumpstops can wait until my next round of purchases if I dont do too intense of wheelin between now and then :banghead:
7. Ill throw on the gussets and sleeves last
8. is there any kind of transmission cooler you recommend. I am clueless in this department
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
for the bump stops, do i just need front and rear upper bumpstops or do i need the lower ones too?
 

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Do the C-gussets, sleeves, and shafts when you do your gears, along with maybe a truss as well for extra beefyness. Labor will be cheaper. Unless you plan on welding and doing gears yourself? Then it will just take you more time.
 

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Trust me you are not going to be able to run 38's on a tight budget "right" unless you never plan to wheel it much. Now if you plan on taking it easy and stay on the highway a lot then you will be fine. And beleave it or not but you will get better millage with the 5:38's then the 5:13 since you wont be puting it on the floor as much going up hills or when you are geting up to highway speeds. Besides the 3.8 loves runing at higher revs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just lowers on the front and rear.
Thanks

Do the C-gussets, sleeves, and shafts when you do your gears, along with maybe a truss as well for extra beefyness. Labor will be cheaper. Unless you plan on welding and doing gears yourself? Then it will just take you more time.
good idea, and no install experience on gears for me, I'll pay the extra money to have gears done right

Trust me you are not going to be able to run 38's on a tight budget "right" unless you never plan to wheel it much. Now if you plan on taking it easy and stay on the highway a lot then you will be fine. And beleave it or not but you will get better millage with the 5:38's then the 5:13 since you wont be puting it on the floor as much going up hills or when you are geting up to highway speeds. Besides the 3.8 loves runing at higher revs.
Thats the thing.. I will be so busy between college and work until summer that I dont plan on doing any major wheeling until then. at that point I can put on all the necessary components.
For now I plan on getting
1. rear bumper
2. 38s
3. gear change
4. fenders(xrc front fender armor and rear corner armor are already in the mail!)
5. Brake lines
6. wheel spacers
7. transmission cooler

Next summer I will add
1. Teraflex long arm kit
2. Aev rear trackbar kit
3. gussets and sleeves(if I dont get them installed with the gears)
This will solve all my suspension geometry and I think this can all wait if I dont do any wheelin :nonono:
 

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best to do the sleeves with the gears. The axle will allready be tore all the way down so it will save you a lot of coin. Dont forget better axle shafts for when you deside to start wheeling. One way or another you will end up buying them if you wheel hard on 38's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
best to do the sleeves with the gears. The axle will allready be tore all the way down so it will save you a lot of coin. Dont forget better axle shafts for when you deside to start wheeling. One way or another you will end up buying them if you wheel hard on 38's.
this sucks, I felt so good about my stock 44's only to find out I gotta make all these mods to them
 
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