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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New HEI arriving for the Sahara tomorrow, again I forgot to order the 8mm wireset at the same time. I used An ACCEL set for the Laredo with great results so going with the same again. (I got a build it yourself set for a V8 which left me with a couple spares for future replacement).

So todays question.. I used the straight boot at the plug the last time. (Pretty much matching what was on the YJ when I got it). But it leaves me with a bunch of half moons looped across the side of the valve cover. I was wondering if anyone has used the 90* plug boots, and do they loop down and out of the way without interfering with anything on that side of the engine. I guess it's 6's either way, just looking for a little cleaner install...

Suggestions???

Merry Christmas everyone...
 

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I've got 90*s on #3 and #4.
 
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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've got 90*s on #3 and #4.
So that works ok for you Then? I was thinking about #1, heater hose is sort of in the way.
 

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The Livewire set I bought has 90s on both ends of each wire. Theoretically they’re supposed to be cut to the correct length for each plug, but I found that some were a little short, so I ended up cutting off the little numbers and swapping the wires around until it felt better. If they had been straight sockets it would not have been an issue. Not a big deal, but they’re supposed to be marketed for the in-line six and having to customize them was kind of annoying. If you are making custom length wires you probably won’t have that problem though. I think I prefer the 90s otherwise.


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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The Livewire set I bought has 90s on both ends of each wire. Theoretically they’re supposed to be cut to the correct length for each plug, but I found that some were a little short, so I ended up cutting off the little numbers and swapping the wires around until it felt better. If they had been straight sockets it would not have been an issue. Not a big deal, but they’re supposed to be marketed for the in-line six and having to customize them was kind of annoying. If you are making custom length wires you probably won’t have that problem though. I think I prefer the 90s otherwise.


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That's why I liked the "build it myself" set, plus being for a v8 you get some extra length to play with. I just start with the shortest one in the box and work from there. Glad the 90* works
 

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If I were to do it again I would probably make my own as well. I wonder if it would end up being cheaper. Something tells me those stupid little numbers I cut off were part of the hefty price tag. Ha.




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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Interesting spot for the fuel pressure regulator, what made you go there?
 

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Looking at that pic, I think I'd try straight boots on the plugs AND the cap....
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Looking at that pic, I think I'd try straight boots on the plugs AND the cap....
Haven't seen straight boots for the cap....Yet..

The size of the cap does make for interesting routing due to the firing order.
 

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Sorry to say though the great attempts to be neat that still looks messy. Lol. How about something similar to the 4.0. Can that be done?
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry to say though the great attempts to be neat that still looks messy. Lol. How about something similar to the 4.0. Can that be done?
HEI cap design pretty much mandates which the direction of the wires, Unless you go vertical as Gottagofast suggests.
 

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Interesting spot for the fuel pressure regulator, what made you go there?


There were a few things. The regulator needs to be about the same height as the fuel intake on the carb and the top of the valve cover is pretty close. Also, the bolts for the original air cleaner hold the bracket for the regulator pretty nicely, so I didn’t have to do any new drilling elsewhere in the engine bay to mount it.


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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There were a few things. The regulator needs to be about the same height as the fuel intake on the carb and the top of the valve cover is pretty close. Also, the bolts for the original air cleaner hold the bracket for the regulator pretty nicely, so I didn’t have to do any new drilling elsewhere in the engine bay to mount it.


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What are pressure are you running it at?
I haven't had the Jeep long enough to play with the Weber much yet, but I've read it needs the regulator to keep from potentially overfilling the float bowl and flooding, but the values are all over between 3-5psi?
Everything else on this thing was kind of halfway done so tuning the carp will be on the list once I get the new Dizzy in.
 

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I’ve got it set at 3, and it sits there pretty steadily. Some people say that the dual outlet filter acts as a regulator so the Howell isn’t necessary, but I’m not sure that it’s as reliable as they say. If I open the regulator up all the way it read much more than the Weber needs, even with the dual outlet filter. But I also wouldn’t remove it and put in a single outlet filter with the regulator. That extra gas has to go somewhere.


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