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Well on further inspection my left rear wheel bearing is going bad. So instead of replacing the bearings I am just going to upgrade the axles. I am thinking Yukon but am looking for recommendations.
 

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I used Ten Factory I liked that the bearings and everything were pressed ready to bolt on. There are many reports that Carbon offroads are the same as ten factory and people claim they have bought carbons and the end sticker came off and revealed a ten factory sticker underneath. Northridge also does the forum discount use wranglerforum in code box

 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've decided to go a different way, I am just going to rebuild what I have. I have a press so it is not that big of deal. And it does not seem smart to spend $500 on a set of axles when the ultimate goal is to put a 60 back there anyway.
 

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under $400 from NR4x4 but still I agree if you don't need them and you are going to go bigger anyway why spend the money.
 

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I have a good set of axles complete for a Rubicon that I took out of mine a week ago. $100.
 

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Timely thread, I've got a squeak developing in the rear passenger wheel area, currently only makes the noise sometimes when turning left when that wheel is loaded more heavily. Squeak sounds like it's timed with wheel rotation so makes me think it's a wheel bearing. No squeaks just when bouncing on that corner of the bumper which also makes me think it isn't a suspension component.

I also had some minor seepage of gear oil out of that seal quite a while ago, intended to have that fixed under warranty but never got around to it and never had any more leaking. Maybe that was a bad idea and contributed to bearing failure? Not sure if it could be connected, haven't yet looked into how that whole axle/hub assembly works back there and I'm all new to working on vehicles in general so learning as things come up.

I'm still under the 3yr warranty so guess I could try to have it replaced that way, along with the seal, if dealer doesn't hassle me for the bigger tires. Seems unusual for a wheel bearing to go bad at only ~23k miles / under 3 years, with only small/light 35s for about half that mileage. I'd hate to replace it with OEM parts only to have it fail again soon. I do drive on a lot of twisty roads and take the turns at a brisk pace so I suppose maybe I put more wear and tear per mile than an average driver, but I don't do much of other things that may be harsh on that area like river crossings...only been across a couple streams deeper than the axles.

If I were to decide to deal with it myself and use better aftermarket parts, would something like that 10 factory axle shaft set from Northridge be the ticket? Is that a pretty easy install? Would that cover my suspect seals too, already all included in the built up shafts? Was also thinking about doing the Dynatrac BBK so could do it at the same time, with the brakes off. And unlike Terry I have no plans to upgrade my rear axle so wouldn't be a waste.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just about pushed the button on a set of Yukon 4340 chromoly axles. I figure if I was going to upgrade I would upgrade.
 

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Timely thread, I've got a squeak developing in the rear passenger wheel area, currently only makes the noise sometimes when turning left when that wheel is loaded more heavily. Squeak sounds like it's timed with wheel rotation so makes me think it's a wheel bearing. No squeaks just when bouncing on that corner of the bumper which also makes me think it isn't a suspension component.

I also had some minor seepage of gear oil out of that seal quite a while ago, intended to have that fixed under warranty but never got around to it and never had any more leaking. Maybe that was a bad idea and contributed to bearing failure? Not sure if it could be connected, haven't yet looked into how that whole axle/hub assembly works back there and I'm all new to working on vehicles in general so learning as things come up.

I'm still under the 3yr warranty so guess I could try to have it replaced that way, along with the seal, if dealer doesn't hassle me for the bigger tires. Seems unusual for a wheel bearing to go bad at only ~23k miles / under 3 years, with only small/light 35s for about half that mileage. I'd hate to replace it with OEM parts only to have it fail again soon. I do drive on a lot of twisty roads and take the turns at a brisk pace so I suppose maybe I put more wear and tear per mile than an average driver, but I don't do much of other things that may be harsh on that area like river crossings...only been across a couple streams deeper than the axles.

If I were to decide to deal with it myself and use better aftermarket parts, would something like that 10 factory axle shaft set from Northridge be the ticket? Is that a pretty easy install? Would that cover my suspect seals too, already all included in the built up shafts? Was also thinking about doing the Dynatrac BBK so could do it at the same time, with the brakes off. And unlike Terry I have no plans to upgrade my rear axle so wouldn't be a waste.
literally one of the easiest jobs you will do is rear axle shafts. Getting the ones from NR with the seals and bearings already pressed on makes it a 20 minute job plug and play job. and yes that would fix your your seal problem. it is odd your leakage stopped because leaks don't fix themselves. maybe you were running too much gear oil or your vent was plugged.
 

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literally one of the easiest jobs you will do is rear axle shafts. Getting the ones from NR with the seals and bearings already pressed on makes it a 20 minute job plug and play job. and yes that would fix your your seal problem. it is odd your leakage stopped because leaks don't fix themselves. maybe you were running too much gear oil or your vent was plugged.
The leak did occur after hammering up a long hard grade out of death valley in the summer heat, around 115F. So gear oil temps would've been as high as they'd ever get. And it wasn't leaking at rest, just had some residue around the brake rotor shield from leaking while running.

I do have the ARB diff cover which I filled per their instructions matching the fill height level to stock by marking the dipstick that cover comes with. Didn't have any venting out the breather. I was worried about that breather a bit one time as I drove away from the tire shop with the hose disconnected from axle droop on the lift and didn't realize til a day later and after some miles. Is there a good way to make sure it isn't plugged? I tried sticking a skinny screwdriver in the hole but just hit a stop shortly inside, imagine there's a 90dg bend or something in the flow path.

If the vent was plugged and oil pressed past the seals as a one time affair, would that damage the seals? I may just order that kit and replace both sides and be done with it, not terribly expensive.

Not that I think I need extraordinary strength for 35s, and don't plan to go to 37s, but is there much difference in strength of that ten factory set versus say a Yukon set that I gather is top shelf for axle shafts? The ease of installation is a big selling point for me on the Northridge kit though, and they don't seem to offer a similar assembled kit with Yukons.
 

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Advance auto rents a nice slide hammer kit. There's an attachment you can use to pull the seals if they're stuck.
 

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Just reverse the rotor and hold on loose with 3 lug nuts. Use it to pull out the seal and bearing. The race should come out easy.
 

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x2
 

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Do those Yukon 4340s on Northridge come fully assembled like the Ten Factories that Northridge assembles? I see a Q&A on Quadratec for the same Yukon set where Qtech customer support says yes they are pre-assembled, not sure if that's accurate.
 

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call NR and ask.
 
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