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79 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've been wanting to run sans doors for a while now, and wanting to actually do it legally, so I picked up some stuff. Kentrol windshield hinges, and some Kentrol cj-style mirrors. I also picked up some new speakers (Polk MM461P), and was very happy I did, but more on that in a bit. I settled on these speakers because they have a pretty high efficiency (90dB), and they are approved for marine use. The drivers are sealed up in the back very well, and the speaker materials used are water-resistant.

If you live in upstate NY like me, or somewhere else that salts the roads, I'd suggest a few days of spraying pb-blaster all over the windshield bolts prior to trying this, or you may end up with this:

Because of my 6-point roll cage, it was REALLY hard to get at the hinges without doing two things, and I'm going to suggest anyone doing this to try it, as it made it all but simple. Remove the emergency brake pedal assembly, and remove the factory speakers (or whatever you've got in there). Also, you may want to remove the wiper delay module and bracket. Just two screws and two plugs there.

To remove the e-brake assembly:
  1. Remove the screw just to the right of the release handle
  2. Remove the two nuts in the engine compartment (pictured)
  3. Either remove the assembly altogether by removing the cable (will have to loosen under the jeep), or just lay it down out of the way

Removing the speakers ended up being far easier once I got the right 6-point socket (11/32"), and BROKE them. The speaker was just too big for me and I couldn't quite get my hand up to that far upper nut, so I crammed a big screwdriver between the speaker frame and its magnet and twisted it out of the rivets.

Here was the result:

After doing this, it was really easy to my hand back there to remove that final nut and get the speaker out. I didn't need to do this on the passenger side, but would have had to if I didn't have a very nice wife with small hands.

Here's the view after getting that stuff out of the way:

BAM! Even not-so-small hands like mine had a TON on room up there, and reaching all four nuts on the back of the windshield bracket was easy.

After getting the windshield hinge off, I had to sand off the old adhesive and some surface rust, and add some of my own thick adhesive (I use Welder) to seal up the gap that was there. Apparently, the PO bent the old hinges a little when putting on the roll cage. The gap is ok by me, and not really noticeable unless you're looking for it. The adhesive sealed it all up nicely.

Hinge removed before surface prep:

Gap at dry-fit:

Then, I drilled some holes through the body for the mirror bolts:

Pilot holes drilled:

Reassemble, rinse and repeat on passenger side, and voila!

Hinges and mirrors on!

Speaker installation

The first "nice" thing about where the speaker studs end up is that they completely are not in the right place. I mean, there are four sets of holes in the aftermarket speakers, and none of them line up:

So I used the old speaker as a template, holding it in place with a couple of screws through holes that did line up

Old speaker as a template:

Holes drilled

These speakers are made to be surface-mounted on top, and there is literally ZERO room for the woofer to move, not even 1mm. I don't know what the x-max (overall maximum speaker movement) on these woofers is, but it's got to be more than 0. I can't take credit for this, I saw it on another post here (or maybe jeepforum), but I ended up cutting up a bic pen to use as spacers on the studs so the woofer wouldn't hit the grille area on the dash. You can see in the picture, I only ended up making it a little higher than the speaker, maybe 2mm, which is more than enough room for these speakers to move. You can also see in the picture how close to the surface the woofer surround is. It's almost flush.

Speaker stud-to-plate spacers:

I removed the old male end of the speaker plug harness from the back of the factory speaker, and made a couple of dongles to go to the new speakers. It ended up that the harnesses are labeled "a" and "b" instead of "+" and "-". Really smart, guys. the a-side is positive, and on the Polk speakers (as with most), the positive lead to the speaker is the fatter spade connector. (now before anyone jumps on me, I know that it really doesn't matter if plus goes to plus and minus to minus as long as all of the speakers are the same, but I just wanted to be consistent).

Dongle using factory harness:

I damaged the side of this one a little when I was getting it out of the jeep, but it plugged back in ok.

At this point, it was pretty easy to get everything back together. But here's a tip: put black tape over the holes you're not using. Accidentally getting one of the studs through one of them and mis-aligning the whole thing can be quite annoying.

Here's the final fit:

Speaker in!

Soooo, the sound is very clear and detailed. I'm impressed. There is less bass than the factory speakers, but I expected as much, there is less radiating area on a 3.5-inch circle driver than a 4x6-inch oval. But honestly it's well worth it. These are much louder than the factory speakers and sound a heck of a lot better. They're definitely a good buy for the money.

There you have it! I hope this helps someone out!

742 Posts
Thank you. And I really mean it. Members like yourself that are willing to share your knowledge in such perfect detail make this 'jeep life' experience so much easier for all of us first timers. Maybe you might have to be a first timer to understand exactly where I am coming from but keep on sharing. You guys are appreciated.

79 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the kind words. I really wanted to document as this took more than a little thought and planning beforehand. I had the hinges for about 2 months before I finally figured out the easiest way to get them in.
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